Porto

Tiles, port & a city on the Douro

Above the Douro, tiled churches, tall houses and streets that tumble towards the water make Porto a city where walking between sights is a pleasure in itself.

Inside, there are cathedral cloisters, elaborate interiors and tiled scenes of Portuguese history to draw you further in. I’m especially fond of the way a day here can take you from all that grandeur to a small neighbourhood café, then on to a very good dinner. The guides below will help you decide what to see, where to stay and how much to fit in.

Plan your Porto trip
The iron arches of the Dom Luís I Bridge in warm light above the Douro
The Dom Luís I Bridge, Porto
Blue-and-white tile panels beside a stone arch in Porto Cathedral’s cloisters
Porto Cathedral cloisters

Look inside, as well as up

Porto’s façades give you plenty to admire, but some of my strongest memories are of stepping through a doorway: the blue-and-white tiles around the cathedral cloisters, or the staircase and stained glass at Livraria Lello. The latter comes with considerable crowds. My guide weighs up the famous sights alongside neighbourhood walks, viewpoints and places to eat, so you can choose what deserves your time.

Make time for port

Across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, the port lodges give you a way into the trade that helped shape the city. The history and the work behind the wine are part of the interest, even if you are not much of a port drinker. A lodge visit gave me a far greater appreciation of both; it is one experience I would make room for.

Port-lodge visits and food recommendations are included in the city guide.

A useful rule

Plan around the hills

Two places that look close on a map can involve a steep climb between them. Group your sightseeing by area, and check the approach to your accommodation before you arrive with luggage. A taxi or public transport can save your legs for the walking you actually want to do.

A narrow flight of stone steps between houses in Porto
Porto’s hillside streets

Choose the neighbourhood you want to come back to

Ribeira puts the riverfront bustle on your doorstep. Miragaia, where I stayed, felt more residential and made a welcome place to return to after sightseeing. If independent shops and galleries are part of the appeal, look at Cedofeita too. The accommodation guide compares these areas and others, with places to stay in each.

Porto in winter

Port lodges, cafés and the city’s interiors give you plenty to build a winter visit around. Rain still needs to be part of the plan: the bright, crisp days I enjoyed in January are a possibility, not a promise.

Beyond the city

Continue into the Douro Valley

A day trip takes you into the terraced vineyards behind the wine you have been drinking in the city. Staying at a ‘quinta’, or wine estate, gives you time for the meals, walks and changing light that can be lost in the drive between tastings. Choose the length of your visit before choosing how to get there.

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See Porto in its wider setting

Within Portugal