** Disclosure: some of the links on this site are affiliate links and should you make a purchase through these, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!**
Spend an unforgettable 3 days in Palermo with our comprehensive guide, informed by a full month’s exploration. Discover the city’s rich history, vibrant culture, and must-see landmarks. This isn’t your typical tourist itinerary – it’s a deep dive into Palermo’s unique charm.
Welcome to the intoxicating place that is Palermo, a city that has stolen my heart and refuses to give it back.
Over a glorious month, I had the pleasure to unravel its many layers, each one more intriguing than the last.
A magnificent melting pot of cultures, Palermo boasts Arab-Norman architecture, tantalising street food, grand palaces, vibrant markets and a compelling Mafia history. With its characterful neighbourhoods and endless surprises, it’s a city that rewards the curious and the patient.
I worked hard on carefully curating this itinerary for spending 3 days in Palermo. I believe it encapsulates the city’s soul, distilling its rich layers into a manageable yet immersive journey. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, an art lover, or just someone seeking an adventure off the beaten path, Palermo offers a wealth of experiences.
This guide aims to help you understand and appreciate the city, ensuring your visit is as enriching as possible. Prepare to be charmed, challenged, and changed as you embark on this 3-day odyssey through Palermo, a city that defies easy categorisation and invites you to delve deeper.
Essential links for your Palermo trip
Transport: book your train tickets here and search for and book car rentals here.
Top rated tours & experiences in Palermo:
☆ Palermo Original Street Food Walking Tour by Streaty
☆ No Mafia Walking Tour
☆ Street Food and History Walking Tour
☆ Monreale and Cefalù Half-Day Trip
Cultured Voyages’ Accommodation Picks:
➨ Porta di Castro Boutique Hotel (luxury pick with pool)
➨ PALAZZO SANTAMARINA Luxury Suite & Spa (boutique lodging in restored palazzo)
➨ Family Affair Palermo (stunning B&B in beautiful building)
➨ Mamamia al Teatro Biondo (stylish budget pick)
Don’t leave home without!
The Rough Guide to Siciliy // Midnight in Sicily // these *excellent* compression packing cubes // rechargeable pocket-fan
Understanding Palermo: a brief overview
Palermo, Sicily’s fascinating capital, is a historical mosaic, rich with cultural diversity and complex socio-economic layers. Lying at a crossroads of civilisations, it bears the imprint of the many empires that have ruled here, from the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans to the Arabs, Normans, and Spanish.
The city’s history is its heartbeat. Each wave of conquerors left an indelible mark on its architecture, food, and language. As a result, Palermo is a melting pot where churches boast Arabic domes and markets buzz with a Middle Eastern vibe. Exploring the city, you’ll quickly realise that understanding its history helps decode its unique cultural identity.
Politically, Palermo has weathered some turbulent times. The city’s notorious association with the Mafia has shaped both local and international perceptions. Despite this, Palermo has demonstrated resilience, with grassroots movements and progressive leadership driving positive change.
Socio-economically, Palermo can be a study in contrasts. Grand palaces stand alongside dilapidated buildings (in fact, some of the palaces themselves are dilapidated), yet the lively street markets and bustling cafes illustrate the vibrant daily life that persists in the face of these challenges.
In short, Palermo is a city that tells a thousand stories. It’s a place where every street, every building, and every person has a tale to share. To truly appreciate Palermo is to delve into this intricate tapestry and to retain an open mind while doing so.
Pre-travel tips for visiting Palermo
Consider a guided tour
Palermo, teeming with history and culture, is a melting pot of influences from its past rulers. To unlock its true essence, you need to engage with its narratives. There are many guided tours available focussing on various facets of Palermo’s evolution and culture.
These tours bring Palermo’s soul to the surface, allowing you to see beyond the physical cityscape and delve into its intricate layers. I’d highly recommend that you consider taking one.
Based on your own interests, some tours that I would consider I have included below.
- Palermo Original Street Food Walking Tour by Streaty – Venture off the beaten path on this small-group food tour. Savour local delicacies like stuffed rice balls and chickpea fritters at backstreet markets and food stalls, all while gaining insights into Palermo’s history and culture.
- No Mafia Walking Tour – Discover Palermo’s key sights and delve into the city’s history with the mafia on this walking tour. Meet the individuals pioneering a local anti-mafia movement and learn about Palermo’s journey towards justice and freedom.
- Street Food and History Walking Tour – This combined historical and foodie walking tour leads you through the heart of Palermo. Admire diverse architectural styles, traverse vibrant street markets, and sample local culinary delights, including panelle and arancine.
- UNESCO World Heritage Sites Guided Walking tour – Embark on a journey through Palermo’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the majestic Palatine Chapel and Palazzo Pretorio. This small-group tour includes a cultural exploration of the city’s architecture and a tasty local break featuring the traditional Sicilian cannolo.
Read my related Palermo travel guide
Equipping yourself with knowledge beforehand can also make a significant difference to your trip. My comprehensive Palermo travel guide provides insights into these aspects and more. Reading this will help you understand the city’s transformation, as well as get a glimpse into the socio-economic forces that shaped it.
RELATED READING | Palermo Travel Guide & Tips
Prepare for the weather
Palermo’s climate, particularly in summer, can be overwhelmingly hot and muggy. Therefore, your packing should be strategic. Lightweight, breathable clothes, comfortable shoes for walking, a wide-brimmed hat, and a good-quality sunscreen are essentials. Consider packing a portable fan or a cooling towel to help combat any intense heat that you may encounter.
What to prioritise seeing (and why)
Deciding what to prioritise in Palermo depends on your interests, but there are certain gems you shouldn’t miss. Start with the Palatine Chapel, with its dazzling Byzantine mosaics and Arab-Norman architecture – it’s a visual feast that reflects the city’s unique cultural fusion.
Next, visit Santa Maria dell’Amiraglio, also known as Martorana Church. Its extraordinary mix of architectural styles and mosaics provide an insightful historical narrative.
Don’t miss the No Mafia Memorial, a poignant tribute to anti-Mafia campaigners. It’s a sobering insight into Palermo’s struggle against organised crime and the courage of those who stood against it.
For a taste of local life, the vibrant Ballarò Market is a must. It’s a sensory overload of colours, sounds and aromas, where you can sample street food and soak up the atmosphere.
Choose a palace to explore the aristocratic history; Palazzo Mirto offers a fascinating glimpse into 18th-century nobility, while Palazzo Butera hosts contemporary art exhibits in a historic setting.
Lastly, if you’re keen on history, the Archaeological Museum houses an impressive collection of artefacts, including those from ancient Greek and Roman periods. Its exhibits offer deep insight into Sicily’s rich and varied past.
A 3 days in Palermo itinerary
Overview of this 3-day Palermo itinerary
To help you plan each of your 3 days in Palermo, I’ve included below a table of each day’s proposed activities, along with an estimation of time required for each.
Please adjust the times for coffee, lunch, dinner, etc based on your personal preferences. These times are averages that I’ve provided based on my own visits to these sites and can be altered depending on how leisurely or swiftly you choose to visit each site.
While this post contains a smattering of foodie tips, if you would like a better run down of where I recommend that you eat in Palermo, I can happily tell you that I’ve eaten my way around the city, and have quite the address book.
Read our related post where to eat in Palermo if you want the down-low.
day 1 Palermo itinerary
Activity | Time Required |
---|---|
Royal Palace & Palatine Chapel | 1.5 hours |
Porta Nuova | 10 minutes |
Ballaro Market | 20 minutes – 1 hour |
Palazzo Conte Federico | 1 hour |
Lunch: Osteria Pizzeria | Varies |
Palermo Cathedral | 1 hour |
Chiesa del Gesù | 30 minutes |
No Mafia Memorial | 45 minutes – 1 hour |
Fontana Pretoria | 20 minutes |
Quattro Canti | 15 minutes |
Grab an aperitif on Via Maqueda | Varies |
Dinner: Via Maqueda | Varies |
Grab a gelato at Cappadonia Gelati | Varies |
Total estimated time (excluding meals) | 6 hours 40 minutes |
day 2 Palermo itinerary
Activity | Time Required |
---|---|
Start with a coffee at Caffetteria Rizutto | Varies |
Tour the Opera House | 1 hour |
Regional Archaeological Museum | 1.5 hours |
Visit Pietro Tramonte’s private library | 30 minutes |
Lunch: Grano Granis | Varies |
Stroll along Palermo’s harbour & waterfront | 30-45 minutes |
Call into Palazzo Butera | 1.5 hours |
Villa Giulia & Botanical Gardens | 1 hour |
Head to Vucciria Market after dark | Varies |
Total estimated time (excluding meals) | 5 hours 30 minutes |
day 3 Palermo itinerary
Activity | Time Required |
---|---|
Mercado del Capo | 30 minutes |
Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio | 30 minutes |
Church of San Cataldo | 15 minutes |
Church of Santa Catarina d’Alessandria | 45 minutes – 1.5 hours |
Palazzo Abatellis | 1 hour |
Cioccolateria Lorenzo | Varies |
Oratorio di San Lorenzo | 30 minutes |
Museo Palazzo Mirto Casa | 1 hour |
Via Vittorio Emanuele | Varies |
Total estimated time (excluding meals) | 4 hours 30 minutes |
Palermo in 3 days: Day 1
Royal Palace & Palatine Chapel
Time required: 1.5 hours
Embarking on a visit to Palermo’s Royal Palace and the enclosed Palatine Chapel at opening hours was an outstanding decision I made during my Palermo trip and I recommend that you start your day in the same way.
The Palatine Chapel, an awe-striking fusion of European, Sicilian, Byzantine, and Arab aesthetics, immediately captures your attention and the best time to see it is when there are fewer people in it, as you won’t be able to sit an appreciate it – this is why I recommend viewing it as one of the first visitors in the morning. Its unique wooden ceiling adorned with human figures, in an Islamic art style called muqarnas, gives an insight into everyday life in historic times.
While the rest of Royal Palace may not match other grand palaces, its authentic charm and use as a public building, housing the Sicilian Parliament, adds a certain touch. It does also contain a couple of dazzling rooms with beautiful mosaics that are well worth the detour.
A morning tour of approximately 90 minutes, before the crowds swell, is sufficient to appreciate the Palace, including its pre-Christian excavations, its meta experience and any temporary exhibits they are running there.
If planning a late visit, I would advise you to pre-purchase online tickets. By the time I left at around 10am the queues were forming outside the gate, so circumnavigate this and head straight to security at the entrance to the palace with a pre-purchased ticket.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 16:30, except on Sundays, when open 8:30 – 12:30. Adult tickets cost € 25.00, reduced rate of €17.00 – purchase them here. There is also an opportunity to visit with a guide on this Royal Palace & Palatine Chapel guided tour.
Porta Nuova
Time required: 10 minutes
Just steps away from the palace exit, the imposing Porta Nuova awaits.
Built to honour Charles V’s triumph in Tunisia, this historical arch doesn’t require much time but enhances your stroll with its historical significance. Now standing as the third version of the medieval city gateway, it proudly displays the figures of defeated Moors.
Its shade provides a refreshing respite in the summer heat. However, be cautious when exiting; the Cathedral side leads to a pedestrian-friendly zone, while the other side ushers you towards heavy traffic.
RELATED READING | Palermo in 1 Day
Ballaro Market
Time required: 20 minutes – 1 hour
Much like navigating a bustling Middle Eastern bazaar, a visit to the Ballarò market brims with vibrant colours, vendors’ banter, and the unique melody of ‘abbanniate’ market cries – a sensory extravaganza.
As Palermo’s oldest food market, Ballarò is a smorgasbord of international culinary delights, spotlighting an array of foods from North African, Sri Lankan, Bangladeshi, and Central African cultures. It’s a haven for photography lovers – I couldn’t resist snapping away to capture the captivating characters and scenes of Palermitan life.
Open every day except Sundays, with a particular energy on Saturday mornings, Ballarò resides in the Albergheria district that sits close to the Royal Palace. Take your time to explore, sample the diverse tastes on offer, even brave a spleen sandwich (a challenge I admittedly fell short of!), and let the market’s vibrant palette etch an unforgettable memory of Palermo.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Free admission. Open daily from 10:00 – 16:30, except on Sundays, when open from 7:00 – 13:00. Ballaro Market is one of the destinations in this Palermo Sightseeing guide on a vintage Fiat 500.
Palazzo Conte Federico
Time required: 1 hour
Entering Palazzo Conte Federico immerses you in a living timeline, given it’s still the residence of Count Alessandro Federico and his family.
This rare opportunity to explore an occupied palace transports you into a tapestry of the past, each tale narrated by the Count’s kin with a charismatic blend of sophistication and humour. The palace showcases a variety of historical epochs, from the 12th-century Arab-Norman tower and Marvuglia-styled courtyard, to the diverse halls within.
Its art collection encapsulates centuries, featuring 15th-century painted ceilings, a prized Madonna of the Sienese school, and 18th-century frescoes. Not to be overlooked are the extensive assortments of weapons and ceramics.
A visit to Palazzo Conte Federico infuses your Palermo trip with a unique, intimate encounter with living history.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily for tours from 11:00 – 12:00 and 13:00 – 14:00 on this website. Adult ticket costs €15.00, a reduced rate of €7.50 – available here.
FOODIE TIP: Osteria Pizzeria da Carlo
Located just out of reach of the majority of tourists (but worth the walk), both myself and my partner enjoyed not only the best pizza that we had in Sicily, but some of the best pizzas we’ve ever had in our entire lives. And we’ve both eaten a lot of pizza, including plenty in wonderful Napoli (link to Naples travel guide). I wholeheartedly recommend the detour, and hope your pizza experience is as transcendental as mine was.
Palermo Cathedral
Time required: 1 hour
Fitting Palermo Cathedral into your 3-day Palermo itinerary necessitates some well-calibrated expectations.
The cathedral, an architectonic tapestry reflecting centuries of modifications since its 1184 inception, is Sicily’s largest Norman cathedral and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its commanding exterior certainly entices.
Yet, its interior, though housing the precious urn of Santa Rosalia and a 1801 sundial, might not quite match the grandeur of its façade. If you’re drawn to ornately decorated church interiors, the neighbouring Chiesa del Gesù could be more appealing – I certainly found it to be so.
The cathedral, however, does boast the ‘Area Monumentale’, accessible for a fee, revealing Royal Tombs, the Cathedral Treasury, and the Undercroft. Don’t forgo the cathedral rooftops – the panoramic city views are certainly worth the effort and, coupled with the magnificent exterior, are likely to render your visit most worthwhile.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open weekdays from 7:00 – 19:00 and 12:00 – 18:00 on weekends. Adult tickets cost €18.00, a reduced rate of € 17.00 for 65 years old and above and €13.00 for kids 11 to 17 years old. Tickets can be bought on preferred dates here. Learning more about the Palermo Cathedral is also possible with a guide through this UNESCO World Heritage Sites Guided Walking tour.
Chiesa del Gesù
Time required: 30 minutes
This Baroque jewel, originating from the mid-16th century, may command more time than initially planned, given its captivating artworks and design. I was positively enamoured by it.
Contrasting its unassuming façade, the church’s interior is an opulent display of marble, stucco, and illustrative artwork that recount its storied past. The Jesuits’ 16th-century arrival in Palermo saw substantial augmentations to this site, encapsulating the pre-existing Church of Santa Maria della Grotta into Casa Professa and initiating grandiose Baroque enhancements from 1598.
The church’s thematic elements provide a refreshing shift from the typical depictions of suffering commonly seen in Catholic churches, offering uplifting imagery of cherubs and inspiring scenes.
When I visited, the church, adorned with fresh flowers for a wedding, exuded an extraordinarily enchanting atmosphere. The central nave is freely accessible, whilst a modest fee grants access to the aisles, presbytery, and museum, all brimming with historical artefacts.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Free admission. Open daily from 7:45 – 18:30, except on Sundays, when open from 10:30 – 12:45 and 18:00 – 20:00. There is also an opportunity to visit Chiesa del Gesu and other destinations with this Discover Palermo tour.
No Mafia Memorial
Time required: 45 minutes – 1 hour
During my Palermo visit, I found the No Mafia Memorial to be a deeply impactful experience, one I wholeheartedly suggest for every visitor.
This free memorial, welcoming donations, introduces you to the gritty reality of Palermo’s history. The striking monochromatic photographs, brief descriptions and select videos, starkly illuminate the city’s protracted struggle with the mafia.
More than a typical museum, the memorial serves as a hub for research, conversation, and raising public awareness – adding further weight to your visit.
Expect a challenging experience; its potent visuals and narratives vividly bring to light brutal assassinations and leave a lasting imprint, but they are essential for grasping Palermo’s resilient spirit.
Home to a library, newspaper library, and document archive, the Centre diligently preserves the memory of the mafia’s victims and advocates for peace and human rights. Although haunting, your visit will instil a profound admiration for the tenacity and resilience of Palermo’s citizens.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 11:00 – 18:00. Entrance is free, although donations are welcome upon exit. See the website for further information.
Fontana Pretoria
Time required: 20 minutes
Emblematic of Palermo, the Fontana Pretoria blends splendour with eccentricity against a backdrop of faded elegance.
Crafted by Francesco Camilliani in Florence in 1554, it was disassembled, transported and reassembled here in 1574 after changing hands in a wager.
It is adorned with myriad statues depicting the Twelve Olympians, mythological creatures, animals, and rivers, each as surprising as the next.
Originally, its nude statues sparked controversy, earning it the notorious title ‘Piazza della Vergogna’ or ‘Square of Shame’. Today, it stands as a valued relic of Sicilian High Renaissance architecture.
The fountain, with its lavish yet quirky composition, encapsulates Palermo’s distinctive charm. Take your time to explore and see how many strange little details you can spot!
Quattro Canti
Time required: 15 minutes
Situated at the heart of Palermo’s historical centre, Quattro Canti, or officially Piazza Vigliena, is an inevitable intersection you’ll find yourself passing multiple times during your 3 days in Palermo. It’s an excellent location by which to orientate your way around the city, erected at the crossing of two of Palermo’s major streets; Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emanuele.
The square, whose name translates to ‘Four Corners’, derives its title from the symmetrical grandeur of its four decorated edifices, completed in 1663.
Quattro Canti’s inception began in 1600 when the city Senate commissioned Via Maqueda to intersect with the already existing Via Vittorio Emanuele, thus sectioning Palermo into “four noble parts” and prompting the birth of Piazza Vigliena.
The square is adorned with an eclectic mix of architectural styles across three levels, featuring Doric, Ionic, and Composite, which serve as a canvas for the allegories of the seasons, statues of four sovereigns, and four patron saints. The buildings catch the sunlight at varying times, giving the square its alternate nickname, ‘Teatro del Sole’ (Theatre of the Sun).
Grab an aperitif on Via Maqueda
While it may be buzzing and popular with tourists, there’s an undeniable vitality to Via Maqueda, particularly after sundown. The street hums with a delightful mix of tourists and locals, all drawn to the vibrant ambiance that characterises Palermo’s evenings, and that’s why I recommend you grab a drink here on the eve of your first day.
Running through the heart of Palermo, Via Maqueda or “New Street”, intersects with Cassaro, creating the striking Baroque spectacle of Quattro Canti. This historic street also leads to the architectural marvel of Teatro Massimo, a sight worth savouring both day and night.
Although Palermo boasts more traditional locales, none encapsulate the city’s unique mix of history and modern energy quite like Via Maqueda. This lively, multi-cultural hub is an essential finale to any day spent exploring Palermo’s rich heritage and dynamic present.
Grab a gelato at Cappadonia Gelati
As you wind down from your first day in Palermo, indulge in a delectable scoop (or two) from Cappadonia Gelati.
Renowned for serving arguably the best gelato in Sicily, it’s the ideal sweet finale to your day. From personal experience, I concur with this high praise—it was without a doubt the finest gelato I enjoyed in Palermo.
Founder Antonio Cappadonia has a fervour for crafting gelato that offers supreme flavour and texture. His dedication includes partnering with local suppliers and meticulously handpicking the most exquisite, perfectly ripened fruits for his concoctions. Each stage of the gelato-making process is given careful attention, producing extraordinary flavours that are strikingly authentic.
For a genuine Palermo indulgence, savour your gelato nestled in a brioche roll. Believe me. It’s an experience you mustn’t miss.
Palermo in 3 days: Day 2
Start with a speciality coffee at Caffetteria Rizutto
Start your day with a superior cup of speciality coffee at Caffetteria Rizzuto, which is a little hard to come by in Palermo.
Established in 1979, this central Palermo café impressively marries Italy’s traditional coffee culture with contemporary brewing methods. If you enjoy speciality coffee but also seek authenticity, then you’ll appreciate the energising blend of espresso-guzzling locals at the counter, alongside the choice of high-quality blends.
Owner Giuseppe Rizzuto offers a wide range of brewing options, including V60s, Aeropress and Chemex.
A versatile café, Rizzuto extends beyond coffee, making it a brilliant spot for breakfast or even a hearty plate of pasta for lunch. The freshly made pastries and daily varying menu, influenced by local market availability, and it’s in a great location too, near to Teatro Massimo.
RELATED READING | 2 days in palermo
Tour the Teattro Massimo
Time required: 1 hour
Teatro Massimo combines cinematic fame, architectural grandeur and cultural significance, all in one satisfying punch.
Fans of the Godfather trilogy may recognise this opera house’s exterior from a gripping scene in the third installment. Beyond its movie fame, it’s renowned as one of Europe’s largest opera houses, with striking Roman-inspired architecture by Giovan Battista Basile.
Even if opera isn’t your preference, the building’s lavish interior is worth a tour, featuring golden ornaments, red brocade armchairs, antique mirrors and stunning Murano chandeliers. Known for its flawless acoustics and the magnificent painted Symbolic Wheel by Luigi di Giovanni, it hosts operas, ballets, and classical music performances.
If you’re enticed by these offerings, book a show in advance or simply relish a beverage at the Caffè del Teatro Massimo.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:30 – 15:30. Ticket cost starts at €10.00 but may vary depending on the available concerts on this website. Skip the Line tickets with Aperitif are available here. A guided tour also allows for learning more about Teatro Massimo Opera House.
Regional Archaeological Museum
Time required: 1.5 hours
As an archaeology enthusiast, I was captivated by this 17th-century complex showcasing Greek artefacts, a refreshing change from typically Roman-centric Italian museums. From prehistory to the Middle Ages, the museum’s 6,000 exhibits paint a rich narrative of Western Sicily, including prominent metopes from Selinunte Temples and architectural terracottas.
Delve into an abundance of Punic and Ancient Greek art, alongside artefacts pivotal to Sicily’s past. Highlights include the WWII-rescued exhibits courtesy of the director Jole Bovio Marconi, underwater discoveries, Phoenician exhibits, and Roman-period sculptures and mosaics. Notable gems include the ancient Egyptian Palermo Stone and Antonino Salinas’ impressive coin collection.
With its serene atmosphere and bright, inviting architecture, this museum offers a rewarding and deeply engaging exploration for history buffs.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:30 – 18:30 and close every Monday. The Museum is open from 9:30 – 13:30 on Sundays and holidays. Adult tickets cost €6.00, a reduced rate of €3.00. Ticket bundles for the Museum and Botanical gardens are available on this website.
Visit Pietro Tramonte’s private library
Time required: 30 minutes
A stone’s throw from Palazzo Branciforte and the Church of San Domenico lies an off-the-beaten track gem, Pietro Tramonte’s open-air library. Pietro, a retired accountant of Norman-Sicilian heritage, has turned an alley into a unique literary retreat, housing around 70,000 books at the time of my visit.
Visitors are invited to browse, exchange, or purchase second-hand books, placing their chosen price in a homemade cardboard box. As a book enthusiast, I was happy to find a selection of English books, ultimately settling on a title for my nightstand.
Open daily from 9 AM to 6 PM (except Sundays), Pietro’s library also provides city maps and guides. Look out for Pietro himself, a charismatic and interesting character, who arrived jauntily on bicycle when we were perusing early one morning.
For bibliophiles, this unconventional library offers a uniquely Palermitan experience, testament to one man’s extraordinary passion.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Sundays and open daily from 9:00 – 18:00.
FOODIE TIP: Grano Granis
A place I loved and returned to for some really great pasta was Grano Granis, a modern Sicilian eatery set on the side of a small, quiet piazza a few streets back from Via Maqueda. They are extremely accommodating to gluten-free diners and I also enjoyed my best pasta alla Norma (and I ate a lot of them) here.
RELATED READING | where to eat in palermo sicily
Stroll along Palermo’s harbour & waterfront
Time required: 30-45 minutes
From the quiet enclave of Pietro Tramonte’s library, step out into Palermo’s rejuvenated harbour, which is a few hundred metres away. The area, once avoided, now thrives with an intriguing mix of old and new architecture, showcasing the city’s regeneration efforts.
Follow the route to the eye-catching murals honouring murdered Judges Falcone and Borsellino, their smiling, conspiratorial images a resilient echo against the backdrop of Palermo’s turbulent fight against the Mafia.
Carry on to the imposing Porta Felice, an emblem of Palermo’s diverse architectural heritage with its Renaissance and Baroque details.
Finally, unwind at the Foro Italico. Once a war-damaged, abandoned space, it’s now a much more of a seafront haven, even if not the prettiest you’ll ever wander along. The atmosphere comes alive, especially on Sundays, when locals and visitors gather to soak in cultural events or simply enjoy the lit-up Cala by night.
Call into Palazzo Butera
Time required: 1.5 hours
During my time in Palermo, visiting Palazzo Butera was a real highpoint. Its grandeur is undeniable, and the revitalisation led by Francesca Frua de Angeli and Massimo Valsecchi has turned a deteriorating structure into a striking example of architectural rejuvenation.
The interior juxtaposes contemporary art against frescoed ceilings, an intriguing blend that kept me positively enraptured. Roaming these grand rooms in solitude (for it’s not heavily visited at all) allowed me to absorb every detail at my leisure.
It’s not just the restoration or the art that enthrals, but the tangible sense of history and culture, reflecting Sicily’s multifaceted legacy alongside its modern influences of today.
With an extensive art library and promising future collaborations, Palazzo Butera stands as a burgeoning cultural hub. For an intimate, non-touristy cultural encounter, I highly recommend it.
Bonus tip – don’t miss the rooftop views of Palermo’s skyline, harbour, and coastline.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Mondays and open from 10:00 – 20:00 every Tuesday until Sunday. Adult tickets cost €9.00 on this website.
Villa Giulia & Botanical Gardens
Time required: 1 hour
In the midst of Palermo’s vibrant city life, carve out some time for a peaceful visit to Villa Giulia and the adjacent Orto Botanico, located in the Kalsa district.
Managed by the University of Palermo’s Botany Department, Orto Botanico is a garden paradise designed in 1789 by Léon Dufourny, hosting over 12,000 plant species including Europe’s largest Ficus macrophilia across its 25-acre grounds.
Organised into various sections, it even includes a greenhouse and experimental field. Adjacent to it, Villa Giulia, the city’s oldest garden, offers a unique solar clock by Lorenzo Federici and several marble sculptures, including Ignazio Marabitti’s “Genius of Palermo”.
The peaceful ambiance and rich biodiversity these gardens provide make them an excellent break from Palermo’s bustling streets.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Free admission. Open daily from 09:00 to 17:00 from November to February, 09:00 to 18:00 from March to October, 09:00 to 19:00 from April to September, and 09:00 to 20:00 from May to August.
Head to Vucciria Market after dark
Conclude day two of this three-day Palermo itinerary with an evening visit to the historic Vucciria Market, located in Piazza Caracciolo.
Once a meat market – its name likely derived from the French “boucherie” – Vucciria springs into life at dusk. The market has an energetic, almost electric atmosphere post-sundown, thrumming with lively local music, food, and cheerful students.
Though the bustle might be a bit overwhelming for some, it’s the pulsating energy that embodies Palermo’s lively spirit. The surrounding buildings may show signs of age, but vibrant graffiti art reflects Palermo’s thriving contemporary culture.
Palermo in 3 days: Day 3
Mercado del Capo
Time required: 30 minutes
Start your day amidst the hustle and bustle of Capo Market, with its vibrant colours and lively atmosphere. This market, located in the historic Arab quarter, offers a slightly more authentic feel than the larger Ballarò market, especially with the streets adorned with colourful fabrics.
A hub of culinary delights, you can browse stalls brimming with local specialities, fresh fruits, spices, and notably, an impressive selection of fish. Indulge in quintessential Palermo street food, including fried fish, panelle, crocché, and traditional grattatella dessert. Try Sicilian cheeses at delicatessen shops or visit Dainotti l’Apericapo for arancina.
The market operates from 7 am to 8 pm daily, with shorter hours on Sundays and Wednesdays. It’s best, however, earlier in the day when stalls are still well stocked.
RELATED READING | Palermo Street Food Tours
Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio
Time required: 30 minutes
Despite its small size, the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (La Martorana) is an absolute must-see in Palermo, delivering an impactful experience that surpasses its modest €2 entry fee.
Once inside, I was captivated by the magnificent golden mosaics, created by Byzantine craftsmen, that decorate its interior. Despite the intense heat inside (it’s quite a stuffy little place), I found myself spending a considerable amount of time, soaking up the beauty of these ancient artefacts.
The church was constructed in the mid-12th century by admiral George of Antioch and has undergone several reconstructions since. Its historical significance is underscored by the coronation scenes of Roger II and Christ’s coronation of Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogenitos, portrayed in the mosaics.
Fascinatingly, you can spot Islamic inscriptions in Kufic script on the church’s columns. In all, La Martorana offers a memorable and enriching insight into Palermo’s diverse cultural history.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Close every Sunday and open from 9:45 – 13:00 from Monday to Saturday. The ticket can be purchased at the on-site ticket office for €2.00 for adult tickets, and the reduced ticket rate costs €1.00. A guided tour with a ticket is also available here.
Church of San Cataldo
Time required: 15 minutes
A visit to the Church of San Cataldo presents a unique, charming experience despite its diminutive size. It’s also extremely easy to tack onto a visit to La Martorana, as it’s located right next door to it.
With its €1.50 entry fee, a discounted rate for those who have visited the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, it’s a worthwhile and affordable addition to your Palermo itinerary.
Unlike its neighbour, this church exhibits rustic simplicity, offering a stark contrast with bare walls that are quite appealing. The construction is reminiscent of Norman or Knight’s Templar influences and carries an intriguing aura that evoked visions of hidden Holy Grails for me.
This 12th-century church, famous for its three pink domes, blends Islamic mastery with Western Romanesque architectural traits. Though the original layout was altered due to 19th-century restoration, the result is a unique geometric Fatimite style and an interior adorned with a stunning opus sectile floor pattern.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site delivers a fascinating contrast to the city’s other ecclesiastical landmarks.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 18:00. Adult tickets cost €2.50, a reduced rate of €1.50. A guided visit that includes San Cataldo Church is also available here.
Church of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria
Time required: 30 minutes – 1 hour
A visit to Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, a former convent turned church, left me with mixed feelings. For the stunning rooftop vistas over Piazza Bellini, Fontania Pretoria, and the Churches of San Cataldo and Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, you need to navigate a dust-covered, peeling paint staircase that feels like walking through an abandoned building.
When purchasing tickets, ensure you pick the one granting you access to the beautiful interiors of the church. We made the mistake of getting a rooftop-only ticket and were left peering through barriers at the treasures within. The church, originally a 14th-century hospice turned Dominican convent, features a cloister adorned with maiolica, balconied cells, and a fountain by Ignazio Marabitti.
Baroque masterpieces by artists like Filippo Randazzo and Antonello Gagini bring life to the walls, while the ticket office showcases a wheel used by nuns to exchange baked goods and abandoned infants.
One can also purchase a separate ticket to explore the old functional areas of the convent, which looked a bit eerie but possibly intriguing. Choose your tickets wisely to fully enjoy this historic gem.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 18:00. You can view more information on the official website. This guided tour includes the Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria as one of the destinations.
Palazzo Abatellis
Time required: 1 hour
With what I appreciate is a niche interest in ecclesiastical art, I found my visit to Palazzo Abatellis particularly compelling.
It’s here where one can encounter the powerful ‘Triumph of Death’ frersco – a piece that struck a chord and was the very reason for my own visit. Encountering it in person, its raw impact, its jarring imagery, was as evocative as I’d imagined. The fresco is positively enormous, and depicts death blitzing through a luxurious garden, shooting characters from all layers of society with its arrows. Its jarring yet thought-provoking imagery left a lasting impression.
This former residence of a Sicilian port master now houses the Galleria Regionale della Sicilia. Its collection, accrued during the suppression of religious orders in 1866, showcases an impressive variety of 12th to 15th-century artwork. The first floor is adorned with masterpieces from the likes of Antonello da Messina, adding to the allure. Remarkably, the palazzo has persevered through WWII bombing damage, serving as an art gallery since 1954.
Despite the lack of air-conditioning and stuffy temperatures within, I enjoyed the diverse collection of religious artworks, demonstrating how artists, albeit within the confines of religious narratives, expressed creativity in imaginative ways.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:30 – 18:30 and close every Monday. Palazzo Abatellis is open from 9:30 – 13:00 on Sundays and holidays. Adult tickets cost €8.00. A reduced-rate ticket is also available at €4.00.
FOODIE TIP: Cioccolateria Lorenzo
Located just around the corner from Palazzo Abatellis is the charming Cioccolateria Lorenzo. A family run business, it features a lovely outdoor patio area, nestled between tall buildings and adorned with plants, which makes it feel like you’ve found a secret garden. They serve a range of drinks, including alcoholic ones, and a range of lovely cakes and pastries, along with light lunch too.
Oratorio San Lorenzo
Time required: 30 minutes
The unassuming Oratorio di San Lorenzo, nestled amid Kalsa’s warren of streets, holds an unexpected allure despite its size and occasional tendency to be a little airless when the weather is hot.
Its hushed interior tells a thrilling story – the infamous theft of Caravaggio’s “Nativity with St. Francis and St. Lawrence” in 1969, which quickly elevated its status on the FBI’s most-wanted art crimes. A replica now fills the void, reflecting its lost grandeur.
Amidst this loss, Giacomo Serpotta’s compelling stucco scenes offer a rich narrative of St Francis and St. Lawrence, demonstrating his artistic excellence and acute detailing.
Despite its modesty, this oratory’s blend of art theft intrigue and stunning craftsmanship make it a worthy addition to a Palermo visit.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 18:00.
Museo Palazzo Mirto Casa
Time required: 1 hour
Situated in Kalsa’s core, the understated-from-the-outside Museo Palazzo Mirto conceals a world of lavishness, representative of the prosperous 18th-century Filangeri family.
Stepping through the doors, one is immersed in genuine opulence, almost expecting the Filangeris to appear. The mansion’s serene atmosphere provides a unique chance to explore unhindered – it doesn’t draw massive crowds.
Boasting an array of resplendent rooms with detailed frescoes and self-portraits by celebrated artists like Pietro Novelli, discovering a casual Brueghel painting hung in one corner was an unexpected pleasure for me.
Even with the second floor closed, the accessible floor’s rich array, from grand 17th-19th century decor and tranquil Rococo courtyard garden to the refined Murano chandeliers, engrossed me for a leisurely hour.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Mondays and open from 09:00 – 18:00 from Tuesdays to Sundays. Adult ticket costs €4.00, a reduced rate of €2.00. There is also an opportunity to visit with a guide in this culinary experience.
Wander down Via Vittorio Emanuele
After leaving Palazzo Mirto head back through the Kalsa district to link up with Via Vittorio Emanuele. This lively main artery of Palermo pulsates with an irresistible, energetic charm.
As you saunter back down the thoroughfare and cross Via Roma, take the opportunity to soak up the vibrant atmosphere. The street is lined with a variety of intriguing shops offering everything from charming trinkets to authentic Sicilian produce—an excellent chance to pick up some unique souvenirs or local delicacies.
Take note, too, of anywhere that catches your eye for a drink. Both on the street and on the cute little side streets that lead off it, there numerous bars and restaurants offering the perfect spots to rest your feet and indulge in some fantastic local cuisine or a refreshing Aperol Spritz.
What to do in Palermo in 3 days on the map
How to use the map: Use the toggle on the left on the header bar to open/close map contents. You can also zoom in and out and interact with the saved items on this map. To save the map to your own Google account, click on the star sign beside the map title on the header.
Alternative places to consider visiting during this 3 day Palermo itinerary
Zisa Palace
In the Zisa Palace, Palermo’s 12th-century Arab-Norman gem, you’ll find Islamic and Norman influences gracefully interwoven. Once the summer haven of Norman kings, it’s imbued with ‘splendid’ elegance, a trait mirrored in its Arabic name ‘al-Azīz’. Exquisite mosaics, elaborate ceilings, and a central courtyard featuring a reflective pool, now house a museum of Islamic art.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Mondays and open from 09:00 – 19:00 from Tuesdays to Sundays. Tickets to the Zisa Palace are available for €9.50 here. A guided tour also allows for learning more about the Zisa Palace.
Monreale Cathedral
Outside Palermo lies the Monreale Cathedral, a Norman architectural masterpiece with vibrant 12th-century Byzantine mosaics. Built under William II, the Norman King, the cathedral’s lavish marble and biblical mosaics make it a UNESCO World Heritage Site frequented by worldwide visitors.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:00 – 12:45 and 14:00 – 17:00, except on Sundays, when open from 14:00 – 17:00. Adult tickets for the Cathedral cloister cost €12.00 here.
Capuchin Catacombs of Palermo
The Capuchin Catacombs present a unique, if a tad eerie, exploration. Housing mummified bodies from the 16th century, these catacombs, initially for Capuchin monks, offer a fascinating glimpse into past societies with well-preserved bodies displayed across distinct areas.
PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:00 – 12:30 and 15:00 – 17:30, and closed on Mondays. Adult tickets cost €3.00. A guided tour with entry tickets is available here.
Take a day trip to Cefalù
Cefalù offers a compelling day trip, with its captivating blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty. Its Norman Cathedral, medieval streets, and stunning beachfront provide a memorable experience. Just an hour from Palermo, this historic fishing village is worth a visit. It’s very easy to reach Cefalù by train and they depart regularly from Palermo’s main train station.
Visit the beaches at Mondello
Alternatively, you can choose to unwind at Mondello beach. With its fine sandy expanse and turquoise waters, it offers an idyllic retreat from city exploration. Whether you prefer sunbathing or water sports, Mondello offers a taste of Sicilian beach life. There is no train to Mondello and a fairly unreliable bus service, however (it can get very full in summer and you may not be able to get a spot). Therefore, it’s probably best to reach via your own car, or to take taxi if you’re visiting during a busy time of year.
Important information: planning & logistics
Best location to stay in during your 3 days in Palermo
For your time in Palermo, I suggest that you position yourself in the Centro Storico, that is somewhere in one of the four historical quarters of Palermo; Albergheria, Capo, Kalsa or Vucciria. Alternatively, you could also consider anything along or just off Via Libertà, which is Palermo’s high end shopping street. It would mean a tiny bit more walking between your accommodation and the activities listed in this itinerary, however.
If you want the full run down of where to stay in Palermo, check out our related post – best places to stay in Palermo. Below are a shortlist of places that are well situated.
Cultured Voyages recommended hotels in Palermo in 3 days
Porta di Castro Boutique Hotel
Housed in a lovingly restored 16th-century townhouse, the air-conditioned rooms boast original stone walls and archways, some with balconies. Enjoy a scrumptious breakfast with fresh fruit and warm croissants before exploring the lively Ballarò Market 300 meters away. Immerse yourself in history, as the Cathedral is just a 5-minute walk.
***
The air-conditioned suites feature elegant furnishings, a well-equipped kitchen, and modern amenities like a flat-screen TV and minibar. Enjoy daily continental and Italian breakfast with fresh pastries and fruits. The central location provides easy access to restaurants, shops, and historical attractions, making it the perfect base for your Palermo exploration.
***
The guest house provides free WiFi and features air-conditioned rooms with flat-screen TVs, minibars, and electric kettles. Some rooms boast balconies or Nespresso coffee machines. Indulge in a delectable breakfast with local Sicilian specialities. Conveniently located near popular attractions, it’s the perfect stay for a memorable Palermo experience.
***
The charming guesthouse offers air-conditioned rooms with free WiFi, private ensuite bathrooms, and thoughtful amenities like memory foam mattresses and double pillows for a restful stay. Enjoy the shared terrace and kitchen, and opt for breakfast served in-room. It’s ideal for exploring the city, major attractions, and shopping streets.
Best time to visit Palermo
A trip to Palermo is most enjoyable in spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October). During these periods, you’ll find the city basking in temperate warmth, without the crowds, making for a leisurely exploration experience.
The sweltering heat of summer can be overwhelming; indeed, I endured an intense June-July sojourn, coinciding with the beginning of the 2023 heatwave, which I confess, was rather challenging. The mercury hovered around 33-36 degrees Celsius, and coupled with the city’s stifling humidity, sightseeing became an exhausting, sweaty endeavour.
Winter, while milder, brings its share of rainfall. Yet, if you can handle a few showers, you’ll appreciate Palermo’s charm in its quieter season, sans the throng of tourists.
How many days to spend in Palermo
Deciding how long to spend in Palermo will largely depend on your personal interests and itinerary.
Should you have a single day, you can still get a taste of the city’s charms, hitting key highlights like the Norman Palace, Palatine Chapel and the Cathedral. It’s a whirlwind tour but gives you a glimpse of Palermo’s rich tapestry.
Two days in Palermo allows for a deeper exploration, including the bustling Ballarò market, exquisite churches, and perhaps a performance at Teatro Massimo.
However, to truly soak in Palermo’s essence, I’d suggest a three-day stay. This enables you to venture to gems like the Botanical Garden and Oratorio di San Lorenzo, alongside sampling the local street food and soaking up the vibrant nightlife.
For the more leisurely traveller or digital nomads – a growing trend I personally embraced, spending an enchanting month there – Palermo has ample to offer. The flexibility to meander through lesser-known districts, savour slow-paced days at Mondello beach, or even take a language class, will undoubtedly make for an immersive Sicilian experience. Palermo’s depth becomes even more palpable with time; it’s a city that rewards those who linger.
RELATED READING | where to stay in palermo sicily
How to get to Palermo
Getting to Palermo from within Sicily
Reaching Palermo from within Sicily or mainland Italy is straightforward, with various transport options available. Direct trains from cities like Syracuse, Catania, and Messina Centrale take between 3-4 hours. Bus services also offer flexibility and picturesque views of Sicily’s landscapes.
For those wanting independence, or who are undertaking a Sicilian road trip, driving is an option, although it requires careful navigation of the city centre’s Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL). Make sure to figure out where you’re going to park in advance.
Getting to Palermo from mainland Italy or abroad
Flights from major Italian cities such as Rome or Milan, or international hubs like Munich, London, and Paris, provide easy access to Palermo. For a more scenic, albeit lengthier, journey, trains from northern Italy or ferries from southern Italian ports are also available.
Getting to Palermo city centre from the airport
Once at Falcone-Borsellino Airport, buses and trains offer economical transport options to the city centre. They cost around €6 for a one-way ticket, with departures approximately every half hour to an hour. You can buy a ticket here.
Taxis, while pricier, are readily available, with pre-booking options for convenience. They typically cost around €65 to get to city centre. If you’d like to book in advance, you can do so here.
Getting around Palermo
If you’re visiting Palermo for three days, the itinerary can comfortably be covered on foot due to the close proximity of key sites. For those with limited mobility, hiring a tuk-tuk is an excellent alternative, allowing you to travel effortlessly between each stop.
Driving in Palermo
Driving in Palermo can be an experience in itself, characterised by chaotic traffic, narrow lanes, and a unique driving culture that can seem erratic to newcomers. Italian drivers, particularly in Sicily, are known for their assertive driving style, which can feel aggressive if you’re not used to it.
Parking in the city centre can also be a challenge, with limited spaces available and a confusing zone system. To navigate this, consider using parking apps or park on the outskirts and use public transport to reach the centre.
While Palermo’s historic centre is compact and best explored on foot, having a car can be advantageous if you plan to explore surrounding areas, such as the stunning beach at Mondello or the idyllic town of Cefalù.
All said, if you’re an experienced driver, undaunted by a little organised chaos and intent on wider exploration, driving in Palermo can be an invigorating part of your Sicilian adventure. If you’re in any way nervous, however, perhaps shy away from renting a car while you’re in Palermo, and pick up your rental can once you’re done.
Safety tips when visiting Palermo
Palermo is generally safe, especially within the main tourist areas. As with any city, it’s important to maintain a sense of vigilance. If you’re exploring solo, feel confident but keep an eye on your belongings. Particularly in crowded places like markets, pickpockets can be an issue.
Ballaro Market is vibrant and usually safe during the day, but it’s prudent to be extra cautious after dark. Essentially, common sense and staying aware of your surroundings are key to ensuring a safe trip.
Related reading for Palermo
- Palermo guide | Visiting Palermo: 21 Insider Tips for Exploring Sicily’s Captivating Capital
- 3-day Palermo itinerary | 3 Days in Palermo: A Deep Dive into Sicily’s Cultural Capital
- 2-day Palermo itinerary | 2 Days in Palermo: an Immersion in History, Culture & Cuisine
- 1-day Palermo itinerary | One Day in Palermo: Discovering the Riches of Sicily’s Capital
- Where to stay in Palermo | Where to Stay in Palermo – Best Areas & Accommodations
- Where to eat in Palermo | Where (& what!) to eat in Palermo [2024 Foodie’s Guide]
- Best Palermo food tours | Best Palermo Food Tours to Take
Like this post? Please share or save for later…
![3 Days in Palermo pin cover for pinterest, with the ceiling of the Palatine painted in gold with religious figures](https://culturedvoyages.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/3-Days-in-Palermo.jpg)
![Palermo in 3 Days pin cover for pinterest, with the dome shaped ceiling of a cathedral adorned with frescoes, a display of wicker bags and items, and plates of pasta dishes](https://culturedvoyages.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Palermo-in-3-Days-1.jpg)