2 Days in Palermo: An Itinerary from Someone Who Spent a Month There

This is a 2-day Palermo itinerary built on a month I spent living in the city, and it’s designed to show you what most first-time visitors miss.

I lived just off Via Maqueda for that month, and one of the things I found myself doing regularly was visiting Pietro Tramonte’s open-air library. 

Pietro is a retired accountant who has filled an entire alley near San Domenico with approximately 70,000 books, takes whatever visitors can afford to contribute, and will tell you about his family’s Norman lineage in Sicily if you give him half a chance. 

It’s the kind of thing that doesn’t appear in many guides, and Palermo is full of places like it.

Palermo is also a city that takes some getting used to. It isn’t orderly, it isn’t particularly clean, and the weight of its Mafia history is present in ways you can feel if you’re paying attention. 

I say this not to put you off but because visitors who arrive expecting a polished Italian city often leave perplexed, while those who arrive curious about the complexity tend to leave slightly obsessed. I’ve been trying to talk people into going ever since.

Palazzo Butera on day two is a good example of what I mean. 

A palace that was falling into ruins until a private restoration effort transformed it into one of the most extraordinary cultural spaces in Sicily – and when I visited, I had the rooms almost entirely to myself, moving from floor to frescoed ceiling to contemporary art collection and back again, to my partner’s considerable frustration! 

That kind of experience is still possible in Palermo in a way it simply isn’t in more visited Italian cities.

The itinerary below takes two full days and is structured around opening times, which in Palermo matter more than most cities. The day-by-day overview with timings is just below.

Overview of this 2-day Palermo itinerary

WORTH KNOWING: Both days are fully walkable. The historic centre is compact enough that nothing in this itinerary requires a taxi or bus – though comfortable shoes are non-negotiable on Palermo’s cobblestones.

To help you to plan your trip, I’ve summarised the activities from each day into a table, along with the amount of time required. Please note that the time required does not include the time it takes to make your way between activities. 

Day 1:

Day 2:

How to spend 2 days in Palermo in detail

In the heart of Palermo, nestled amidst the cityscape, lies the iconic Quattro Canti, the crossroads dividing the historic centre into four distinct quarters. In the itinerary I’ve tailored for you, each day is dedicated to exploring two of these unique sections (roughly – there is a tiny bit of crossover) each day.

Day one of the journey delves into the southern quarters, with day two then inviting you to explore the northern quarters, offering a contrasting yet harmonious experience. Although these quarters seem distinct, the historical centre of Palermo is surprisingly compact, hence the distances are not daunting.

Given Palermo’s manageable layout, this itinerary allows flexibility. You are encouraged to tweak and tailor the sequence to your own curiosity and pace. The interactive map accompanying this guide presents day one and two attractions distinctly in different colours, enabling you to visualise the proximity between various attractions and plan accordingly.

This well-rounded two-day itinerary aims to give you an authentic Palermo experience, highlighting its vibrant history, culture and architecture, all waiting to be discovered.

Map of this 2-day Palermo itinerary

Day 1 in Palermo – what to do

Visit the Palatine Chapel and Royal Palace

Time required: 1.5 – 2 hours

Arriving at the Palatine Chapel at 8:30am on a busy Friday in July was one of the better decisions I made during my month in Palermo. Consequently, I highly recommend arriving at the palace at opening hours and making a beeline for the Palatine Chapel before exploring the rest of the palace complex.

The chapel is an awe-inspiring blend of European, Sicilian, Byzantine, and Arab designs. The dazzling Corinthian capitals, the intricate pulpit, and especially the Byzantine mosaics – the Christ Pantocrator depiction is genuinely spellbinding.

One of the unique attributes of the chapel is its wooden ceiling, featuring muqarnas (stalactites) – an Islamic influence rarely found in a Christian church. Unusually for Islamic art, it’s adorned with human figures, depicting the everyday life of the period.

In comparison, while parts of the Royal Palace might not compete with other lavish palaces, it has an authentic charm. It’s refreshing to see the building serving public functions, not solely as a tourist attraction. The Sicilian Parliament hums into life within the building, and the Royal Garden offers a peaceful haven.

Despite the temptation to linger, I found that 90 minutes was plenty to appreciate the Palace and avoid the late morning rush, enjoying the Chapel’s serenity. In this time, I covered all visitor-accessible areas of the palace, including its intriguing pre-Christ excavations, the meta experience, and ‘PUNCTUM’, a deeply moving temporary exhibition by Italian-Egyptian artist, Omar Hassan.

If a later visit is on the cards, I suggest buying your tickets online to skip the queue and proceed directly to security.

I departed the palace around 10 am as the queues began to build, wholly gratified by the morning’s discoveries. The Palatine Chapel and the Royal Palace of Palermo will undoubtedly be a highlight of your visit. Just remember – go early!

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 16:30, except on Sundays, when open 8:30 – 12:30. Adult tickets cost €19.00, reduced rate of €17.00 – purchase them here. There is also an opportunity to visit with a guide on this Royal Palace & Palatine Chapel guided tour.

Porta Nuova

Time required: 10 minutes

Exiting the palace, you’ll find the impressive Porta Nuova just a stone’s throw away. Constructed to celebrate Charles V’s Tunisian victory, this archway doesn’t demand much of your time but adds a touch of history to your stroll.

As the third iteration of the medieval city gate, it now stands proudly, showcasing the figures of defeated Moors.

While the arch’s shade provides welcome relief in summer, be mindful that exiting on the Cathedral side places you in a pedestrian area, while the opposite side leads to heavy traffic.

RELATED READING | 1 Day in Palermo

Ballarò Market

Time required – 30 minutes (plus a little more if you want to stop for something to eat)

Ballarò is Palermo’s oldest and most characterful market – loud, colourful, and full of the abbanniate market cries that vendors have used here for centuries.

The range of produce reflects the neighbourhood around it – North African, Sri Lankan, Bangladeshi and Central African food cultures all present alongside the Sicilian staples.

Photography enthusiasts will find a wealth of inspiration here. The market teems with fascinating characters and my camera was incessantly clicking, eager to encapsulate these glimpses of Palermitan life.

Open daily except Sundays, with a notable buzz on Saturday mornings, Ballarò is nestled in the Albergheria district. Make sure to saunter at your leisure, savour the flavours, try a spleen sandwich (if you can stomach it – I couldn’t!), and let the vibrant hues imprint a vivid memory. 

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Free admission. Open daily from 10:00 – 16:30, except on Sundays, when open from 7:00 – 13:00. Ballaro Market is one of the destinations in this Palermo Sightseeing guide on a vintage Fiat 500.

RELATED READING | Street Food Tours in Palermo

Palazzo Conte Federico

Time required: 1 hour

As you step into Palazzo Conte Federico, you’re stepping into a living piece of history, as it’s still home to Count Alessandro Federico and his family.

The unique experience of visiting a still-inhabited palace, garnished with elegant historical touches, takes you back in time. Here, stories of yore come alive as the Count’s heirs narrate them with a delightful blend of understated elegance and wit. The 12th-century Arab-Norman tower and Marvuglia-adorned courtyard lead to multiple halls, each speaking to different historical periods.

Notably, the palace’s artwork spans centuries, from 15th-century painted ceilings and a treasured Madonna of the Sienese school, to 18th-century frescoes. Other attractions include a rich collection of weapons and ceramics.

An experience unlike any other, visiting Palazzo Conte Federico adds a layer of living history to your Palermo adventure.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily for tours from 11:00 – 12:00 and 13:00 – 14:00 on this website. Adult ticket costs €15.00, a reduced rate of €7.50 – available here.

Palermo Cathedral

Time required: 1 hour

When planning a visit to Palermo Cathedral during your 2-day itinerary, it’s important to manage your expectations.

The cathedral’s exterior is undoubtedly mesmerising, a blend of architectural styles that echo its many modifications since its initial construction in 1184. As the largest Norman cathedral in Sicily and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its exterior promises grandeur.

However, the interior, albeit home to the treasured urn of Santa Rosalia and a 1801 sundial, doesn’t quite live up to the awe-inspiring façade. If richly adorned church interiors pique your interest, the nearby Chiesa del Gesù might be worth a longer visit.

Yet, Palermo Cathedral does offer the ‘Area Monumentale’, accessed for a fee, leading to Royal Tombs, the Cathedral Treasury, and the Undercroft.

Don’t miss the cathedral rooftops on your visit; the panoramic city views from this vantage point are worth the climb and, along with the glorious exterior of the building, are what will make your visit the the cathedral memorable.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open weekdays from 7:00 – 19:00 and 12:00 – 18:00 on weekends. Adult tickets cost €18.00, a reduced rate of € 17.00 for 65 years old and above and €13.00 for kids 11 to 17 years old. Tickets can be bought on preferred dates here. Learning more about the Palermo Cathedral is also possible with a guide through this UNESCO World Heritage Sites Guided Walking tour.

Chiesa del Gesù

Time required: 30 minutes

On your 2-day itinerary in Palermo, I highly recommend a visit to the Chiesa del Gesù, or Casa Professa.

This mid-16th-century Baroque wonder may consume more of your time than anticipated, given its enthralling artwork and design. The church’s humble exterior is a stark contrast to the stunning interior, adorned with elaborate marble, stucco, and decorative artwork that narrates its rich past.

The Jesuits’ arrival in Palermo in the 16th century led to significant additions to this site, including the incorporation of the pre-existing Church of Santa Maria della Grotta into Casa Professa, accompanied by grand Baroque enhancements from 1598 onwards.

The church’s thematic elements are uniquely uplifting, with numerous cherubs and stirring imagery that deviate from the typical portrayals of suffering common in Catholic churches.

During my visit, the church was decorated with fresh flowers for a wedding, which only further served to enhance its truly captivating ambiance. Access to the central nave is free, while a nominal fee opens up the aisles, presbytery, and museum, each bursting with historical treasures.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Free admission. Open daily from 7:45 – 18:30, except on Sundays, when open from 10:30 – 12:45 and 18:00 – 20:00. There is also an opportunity to visit Chiesa del Gesu and other destinations with this Discover Palermo tour.

No Mafia Memorial

Time required: 45 minutes

During my stay in Palermo, I made a point to visit the No Mafia Memorial, a deeply moving experience I’d urge all visitors to undertake.

This free-to-enter memorial, which graciously accepts donations, takes you on a poignant journey into the grittier side of Palermo’s past. The exhibits’ simplicity only intensifies their effect. Striking black and white photographs, accompanied by concise descriptions and a handful of videos, shine a harsh light on the city’s prolonged battle with the mafia.

More than a traditional museum, the memorial acts as a centre for research, discourse, and fostering public awareness—a noble endeavour that underscores the importance of your visit.

Be prepared; this isn’t an easy visit. Its hard-hitting images and narratives leave a lasting impression and brutally expose assassinations and murders. But it’s undeniably crucial for understanding Palermo’s persevering spirit in its present and future.

Home to a library, a newspaper library, and a document archive, the Centre is committed to preserving the memory of the mafia’s victims and championing peace and human rights. While the memorial is haunting, it leaves you with a profound respect for the resilience and strength of Palermo’s people.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 11:00 – 18:00. Entrance is free, although donations are welcome upon exit. See the website for further information.

Quattro Canti

Time required: 10 minutes

At the nucleus of Palermo’s historical core is Quattro Canti, a vital hub in the city. Officially called Piazza Vigliena, it’s a spot you’ll probably cross numerous times during your Palermo visit. Its moniker, translating as ‘Four Corners,’ originates from the arresting symmetry of its four adorned buildings, finalised in 1663.

The conception of Quattro Canti started in 1600, when the Palermo Senate ordered the creation of Via Maqueda, intersecting with the existing Via Vittorio Emanuele. This intersection led to the partition of Palermo into “four noble parts” and the creation of Piazza Vigliena.

This square houses an eclectic fusion of architectural styles across three tiers. Doric, Ionic, and Composite styles provide the backdrop for allegories of seasons, statues of four monarchs, and four patron saints. Each building catches the sun at various times, earning the square its alternate name, ‘Teatro del Sole’ (Theatre of the Sun).

Annually, Quattro Canti becomes the focal point during the significant Santa Rosalia festival when the mayor lays flowers at the saint’s statue’s foot. It will likely be a central part of your Palermo exploration too, serving as an excellent reference point for your city wanderings.

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Stop outside to admire Teatro Massimo

Time required: 20 minutes

Before wrapping up your first day in Palermo along Via Maqueda, make a detour to Teatro Massimo.

It’s an impressive sight, especially for Godfather trilogy buffs. The theatre’s grand staircase, the setting for a poignant scene in the movie, radiates a dramatic aura, even without cinematic embellishment.

Teatro Massimo isn’t just a movie backdrop though. As one of the largest opera houses in Europe, it’s a cultural symbol of the city. Its grandeur goes beyond its Romanesque façade, graced with bronze lion statues, to the capacious interiors that are equally mesmerising. If ballet or classical music appeals to you, pre-book tickets for an unforgettable spectacle.

For those inclined towards architecture and history, the Teatro offers tours to appreciate its opulent interiors, including the Great Hall, famed for its perfect acoustics, and the ‘Symbolic Wheel,’ a stunning painted work by Luigi di Giovanni. However, a visit isn’t included in this two-day Palermo itinerary due to time limitations and because I think there are more interesting things to visit and see in Palermo.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:30 – 15:30. Ticket cost starts at €10.00 but may vary depending on the available concerts on this website. Skip the Line tickets with Aperitif are available here. A guided tour also allows for learning more about Teatro Massimo Opera House.

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Pull up a seat on Via Maqueda

After a full day’s journey through Palermo, head towards the bustling Via Maqueda to cap off your day.

Undeniably lively and a bit of a tourist magnet, this street pulses with an undeniable energy, particularly as the evening unfolds. A happy cacophony of tourists and locals throng its length, eager to bask in Palermo’s effervescent ambiance.

Via Maqueda, known as the “New Street,” is a historic artery in Palermo’s core, intersecting with Cassaro at the stunning Baroque junction, Quattro Canti. It also guides you to the Teatro Massimo, a splendid sight in both daylight and after dark.

Touristy as though it may be, I think it really encapsulates the boundless energy Palermo is all about. We lived in a street just off Via Maqueda for our month in Palermo and found that there is always something going on there. Some of its restaurants aren’t bad either – while they’re a tad more expensive they’re worth it for the ambiance and people-watching opportunities. Our favourite was Ciurma.

Head to Cappadonia Gelato to finish off your day

As the night of your first day in Palermo comes to a close, treat yourself to a delightful scoop (or two) at Cappadonia Gelati. Often hailed as serving the finest gelato in Sicily, it’s the perfect sweet ending to your day. And I must admit, their claim holds up pretty well – it was hands down the best gelato we had in Palermo.

The founder, Antonio Cappadonia, is passionate about crafting gelato with optimal taste and texture. He collaborates with local producers and meticulously sources the finest, perfectly ripe fruits for his creations. Every step of the gelato-making process is handled with care, resulting in exceptional flavours that simply burst with authenticity.

For a true Palermitan treat, try your gelato served in a brioche roll. Trust me, it’s a must-have experience. 

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Day 2 in Palermo – what to do

Regional Archaeological Museum

Time required: 1 – 1.5 hours

Having dreamt of becoming an archaeologist in my youth, stepping into Palermo’s Salinas Regional Archaeology Museum, named after Antonino Salinas, was a delight. Walking through its doors early on a Sunday morning, I was greeted with serenity. The building, a 17th-century complex, was bright and inviting, its sweeping corridors showcasing predominantly Greek artefacts, a delightful deviation from the usual Roman focus in other Italian museums.

The museum paints a detailed picture of western Sicilian history, from prehistory to the Middle Ages, through over 6,000 exhibits from various periods and civilisations. These include the renowned metopes of Selinunte Temples and architectural terracottas. A wealth of Punic and Ancient Greek art, alongside items integral to Sicilian history, is also presented.

Of special interest are exhibits saved from the ravages of WWII, thanks to the museum director Jole Bovio Marconi. There are also sections dedicated to underwater discoveries, Phoenician exhibits, and Roman-period sculptures and mosaics. Treasures like the Palermo Stone, an ancient Egyptian stela, and Antonino Salinas’ extensive coin collection only add to the charm.

This carefully curated selection of history and heritage makes a visit here truly rewarding for history lovers.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 9:30 – 18:30 and close every Monday. The Museum is open from 9:30 – 13:30 on Sundays and holidays. Adult tickets cost €7.00, a reduced rate of €3.50. Ticket bundles for the Museum and Botanical gardens are available on this website.

Visit Pietro Tramonte’s private library

Time required: 30 minutes

Right in the heart of Palermo, near Palazzo Branciforte and the Church of San Domenico, is a unique cultural haven – Pietro Tramonte’s open-air library. Pietro, a retired accountant, is a vibrant character who regaled us with his family’s ancient Norman lineage in Sicily upon hearing that we were Irish.

Meeting him, you’ll understand why his library, crammed with approximately 70,000 books, has become a notable spot in Palermo.

Books practically form the alley’s furniture, and visitors are encouraged to browse, exchange, or buy second-hand books, contributing whatever they can afford into a homemade cardboard money box. He has a few shelves of English books, which I happily mulled over before picking out a title.

Pietro, who arrived on his bicycle (which was swiftly spirited away by a dedicated assistant) when we swung by, operates this literary sanctuary from 9 AM to 6 PM every day except Sundays.

In addition to the diverse selection of intriguing publications, you can also find maps and guides of the city in this outdoor library.

Be sure to pay a visit if you’re a fellow bookworm – it’s a highly unique experience and an example of an impressive personal passion project.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Sundays and open daily from 9:00 – 18:00.

Fontana Pretoria

Time required: 20 minutes

Take a stroll from the Quattro Canti to the nearby Praetorian Fountain, a sight you might have glimpsed on your first day but is worth a detailed exploration. This grand spectacle, also known as Fontana Pretoria in Italian, truly embodies the unique spirit of Palermo – grandeur mixed with quirks, set amidst faded opulence.

The fountain, designed by Francesco Camilliani in Florence in 1554, was transported and assembled here in 1574 having been won in a bet. It’s rich with statues portraying the Twelve Olympians, mythological beasts, animals and rivers, each one unexpected and intriguing in its own way.

Originally met with criticism due to the statues’ nudity, leading to its infamous nickname ‘Piazza della Vergogna’ or ‘Square of Shame’, it’s now an esteemed piece of Sicilian High Renaissance architecture and a treasured landmark.

Despite its turbulent past, or perhaps because of it, the fountain’s mix of extravagance and peculiarity makes it a fitting reflection of Palermo’s own character. So don’t rush, soak in the details and let this peculiar piece of Palermo’s history fascinate you.

RELATED READING | Palermo in 3 days

Churches of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio & San Cataldo

Time required: 30 minutes

This little church, Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, certainly packs a punch for its €2 entry fee! During my visit, despite the intense warmth of the interior, I found myself drawn to the mesmerising gold mosaics, glittering in the light, their antiquity astonishing to contemplate.

A mid-12th century creation of Admiral George of Antioch, this intimate space with a Greek cross plan has undergone multiple reinventions. Yet, it still transports you to bygone eras. The neighbouring San Cataldo, easily recognisable by its red domes, offers a fitting counterpart to Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio’s distinctive aesthetic.

Whilst immersing in the church’s quiet tranquillity, look out for the dazzling mosaic that depicts Roger II’s coronation. The unique presence of Islamic inscriptions in Kufic script on the columns hints at the layered history of Palermo. The image of George of Antioch at the Virgin Mary’s feet, with Mary holding a scroll inscribed in medieval Greek, is deeply moving.

Despite the sweltering heat, I sat, completely enthralled by the shimmering mosaics, historical narratives and timeless beauty. A visit to Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio provides a wonderfully immersive, richly rewarding glimpse into Palermo’s past.

When you’re fiished, pop in to San Cataldo, which you’ll find up the same set of steps. While the church has seen multiple reconstructions, elements of its diverse history, such as Islamic inscriptions in Kufic script, offer a unique peek into the past.

It’s very tiny and will only take a few minutes of your time, but is very ‘Knights Tempar-esque’ and only €1.50 to visit if you’ve got a ticket from Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Close every Sunday and open from 9:45 – 13:00 from Monday to Saturday. The ticket can be purchased at the on-site ticket office for €2.00 for adult tickets, and the reduced ticket rate costs €1.00. A guided tour with a ticket is also available here.

Church of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria

Time required: 30 minutes – 1 hour

A visit to Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, a former convent turned church, left me with mixed feelings. For the stunning rooftop vistas over Piazza Bellini, Fontania Pretoria, and the Churches of San Cataldo and Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, you need to navigate a dust-covered, peeling paint staircase that feels like walking through an abandoned building.

When purchasing tickets, ensure you pick the one granting you access to the beautiful interiors of the church. We made the mistake of getting a rooftop-only ticket and were left peering through barriers at the treasures within. The church, originally a 14th-century hospice turned Dominican convent, features a cloister adorned with maiolica, balconied cells, and a fountain by Ignazio Marabitti.

Baroque masterpieces by artists like Filippo Randazzo and Antonello Gagini bring life to the walls, while the ticket office showcases a wheel used by nuns to exchange baked goods and abandoned infants. 

One can also purchase a separate ticket to explore the old functional areas of the convent, which looked a bit eerie but possibly intriguing. Choose your tickets wisely to fully enjoy this historic gem.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 18:00. You can view more information on the official website. This guided tour includes the Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria as one of the destinations.

Oratorio di San Lorenzo

Time required: 20 minutes

Tucked away in Palermo’s bustling cityscape, the Oratorio di San Lorenzo is a charming find that exudes a quiet allure. Though modest in size and a tad stuffy on a muggy summer’s day, this oratory will captivate the discerning explorer.

In the hushed air within, an intriguing narrative whispers – the tale of Caravaggio’s “Nativity with St. Francis and St. Lawrence”. Once adorning the oratory’s sacred walls, this masterpiece vanished in a brazen heist in 1969, leaving an echoing void in its wake. The audacious theft quickly catapulted the artwork to the FBI’s top 10 unsolved art crimes. Today, a replica fills the space, the poignant symbolism a reminder of what once was.

Yet, amidst this tale of loss, the oratory harbours captivating beauty.

Engrossing and intriguing characters and scenes are carved into the stucco, courtesy of Giacomo Serpotta, providing an in-depth glimpse into the lives of St Francis and St. Lawrence. Each figure and scene is a testament to the artist’s prowess and attention to detail, making for an interesting visual journey.

Despite its compact stature, the Oratorio di San Lorenzo merits inclusion in a Palermo itinerary. The intrigue of its stolen Caravaggio, coupled with the richness of its artistry, renders this unassuming oratory a unique discovery.

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Open daily from 10:00 – 18:00.

Museo Palazzo Mirto Casa Museo

Time required: 1 hour

In the heart of Palermo, the Museo Palazzo Mirto quietly nestles, presenting an unassuming exterior that belies its vibrant inner life. As I crossed its threshold, the humble facade gave way to a realm of resplendent grandeur, a testament to the affluent Filangeri family of the 18th-century.

The rich authenticity of this noble mansion strikes you instantly; it still hums with an intimate resonance, as if the Filangeris might saunter in any moment. Coupled with its tranquillity, it provides a rare opportunity to indulge in the expanse of this palatial dwelling unhindered, which was a true joy – not too many people seem to visit.

The palazzo harbours an exquisite ensemble of rooms, adorned with intricate frescoes and graced with the self-portraits of lauded artists like Pietro Novelli. The delight of encountering a Brueghel painting adorning the walls, casual as you like, added a further layer to my visit.

Despite the closure of the second floor, the wealth of treasures on the accessible floor engrossed me. I whiled away a pleasant hour, exploring the opulent 17th-19th century decor, the serene Rococo courtyard garden and the delicate Murano chandeliers, amongst many other intrigues.

Located in the ancient Kalsa district, the Palazzo Mirto is a discreet treasure that offers a charming detour on any Palermo journey. 

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Mondays and open from 09:00 – 18:00 from Tuesdays to Sundays. Adult ticket costs €4.00, a reduced rate of €2.00. There is also an opportunity to visit with a guide in this culinary experience.

Palazzo Butera

Time required: 1.5 – 2 hours

Palazzo Butera ended up being a monumental highlight during my Palermo adventure.

This awe-inspiring palace had me captivated from my first step inside and I gleefully flittered from room to room, frustrating the hell out of my partner will all my exclamations of “oh my God!”. The ambitious restoration effort by Francesca Frua de Angeli and Massimo Valsecchi has transformed what was once falling into ruins into a marvel of architectural revival.

Inside, the palace is a treasure trove of artistry. Rooms teeming with contemporary art perfectly contrast against frescoed ceilings, creating a fascinating balance. It was a delight to roam these expansive rooms, completely undisturbed, soaking in every detail in my own time.

But it’s not just the renovation or the art that struck me. It’s the sense of history, of culture, captured within the palace walls, a testament to Sicily’s diverse heritage as well as its modern edge. From an extensive art library to future plans and collaboration, Palazzo Butera is a cultural nexus that will only evolve and improve over the coming years.

For those seeking an intimate, enriching, and uncrowded cultural experience in Palermo, I cannot recommend Palazzo Butera enough. Its beautiful renovation, extraordinary art collections, and future plans make it an essential stop on any Palermo itinerary.

Also – top tip – the palace offers some top-notch views from its roof. It’s worth making the journey up the stairs to take in a unique perspective of the city’s roofs, port and coastline. 

PLAN YOUR VISIT | Closed on Mondays and open from 10:00 – 20:00 every Tuesday until Sunday. Adult tickets cost €11.50 on this website.

Stroll along Palermo’s lungomare

Time required: 30 minutes

After the splendour of Palermo’s Palazzo Butera, now’s the ideal time to take a leisurely stroll along the city’s Lungomare (take a left once you reach the water to follow my proposed route)

It’s not the most picturesque waterfront you’ll encounter – much of it is quite industrial – but it’s worth the walk.

On one hand, you have the Porta Felice, the grand city gate, marking the start of your coastal journey, while on the other, the mural dedicated to anti-Mafia judge Giovanni Falcone speaks volumes about Palermo’s resilient spirit. As you wander further, you’ll witness the regenerated harbour, bustling with traditional boats and yachts alike.

The mighty silhouette of Mount Pellegrino towers in the distance.

Visit Vucciria Market at night

Rounding off your Palermo trip with a visit to the bustling Vucciria Market at night is sure to leave an unforgettable impression. Nestled in Piazza Caracciolo, Vucciria Market is steeped in history, originally being a hub for the sale of meat (its name is believed to be derived from the French word for butcher’s shop, “boucherie”).

As dusk falls, the market sparks to life, transforming into an effervescent nightlife hub. After dark it fills predominantly with students – music, food, and a fairly chaotic energy. The busy ambience might be overwhelming for some, yet the charm lies in the pulsating energy that the place radiates.

Although the buildings around may bear signs of dilapidation, the vivid graffiti that adorns their walls adds a touch of urban artistry, reflective of Palermo’s contemporary culture. Be sure to spot the Genius of Palermo statue, a symbol of the city’s rich heritage, near the ancient church of Sant’Eulalia dei Catalani.

It’s the right note to end two days on.

Alternative things to do during your 48 hours in Palermo

Modern Art Museum |  This institution, formally known as the Palazzo Riso, is an essential stop for art enthusiasts. Boasting works from renowned Italian artists, the museum captures the evolution of modern artistic trends. 

Capuchin Catacombs | This peculiar site is a sobering encounter with the past. It presents a unique tradition of preserving the dead, dating back to the late 16th century. The eerie rows of mummies, segregated by gender and profession, provide a profound glimpse into Sicilian cultural history.

Botanical Gardens |  These tranquil gardens, run by the University of Palermo, are a paradise for nature lovers. With over 200 years of history, they house thousands of exotic plants from around the globe. The classical statues, antique greenhouses and palm-lined avenues invite leisurely exploration.

Zisa Palace |  This historical monument exemplifies Arab-Norman architecture, featuring intricate Islamic designs and a serene reflecting pool. A museum within showcases Islamic art. 

Palazzo Abatellis | Ideal for those partial to ecclesiastical art ( have to admit that I am), this Gothic palace houses a rich collection, including works from Antonello da Messina. The masterpiece is the haunting Fresco of Death, which, surrounded by an air of sombre majesty, is a sight not to be missed. It’s what brought me to the museum, and didn’t disappoint. 

More than two days in Palermo?

If you have more than two days, Palermo will fill them. You could delve deeper into Palermo’s labyrinthine streets, uncover more of its tantalising food scene, or even embark on a day trip to the charming coastal town of Cefalù.

Boasting a stunning Norman Cathedral, pristine beaches, and an old-world atmosphere, Cefalù makes for a delightful contrast to Palermo’s bustling cityscape.

My 3-day Palermo itinerary includes all the quirky attractions I particularly loved in Palermo, and allows more time for the sites that reward a slower pace.

Before you spend two days in Palermo

Closing hours (& days)

Crafting the perfect itinerary for two days in Palermo requires an appreciation of the city’s unique cultural rhythm, especially in relation to opening and closing times.

Many of the city’s most captivating cultural sites, including the Archaeological Museum and numerous palazzos and mid-size museums, are closed on Mondays. A sizeable number also draw the curtains by 1pm on Sundays.

Therefore, to maximise your opportunities and ensure you see everything on your wish list, I recommend planning your two days in Palermo outside of these days where you can, or if visiting on the weekend to make sure to visit sites that are closed on Sunday/Monday on a Saturday and to double check opening times of everything in advance.

RELATED READING | Palermo Travel Tips: What a Month Living There Taught Me

Consider doing a walking tour

Exploring Palermo on foot is a fantastic way to truly immerse yourself in the city’s vibrant culture and complex history. I’d strongly recommend considering a walking tour as a part of your itinerary when spending one day or two in Palermo.

While wandering around on your own has its charm, a city like Palermo, layered with so much historical and cultural depth, reveals itself more meaningfully when its stories are narrated by someone who knows them well. A knowledgeable local guide can provide context and insight that might be difficult to grasp independently, especially if you’re here just for a short visit.

Based on your own interests, some tours that I would consider I have included below.

• Palermo Original Street Food Walking Tour by Streaty – Venture off the beaten path on this small-group food tour. Savour local delicacies like stuffed rice balls and chickpea fritters at backstreet markets and food stalls, all while gaining insights into Palermo’s history and culture.
• No Mafia Walking Tour – Discover Palermo’s key sights and delve into the city’s history with the mafia on this walking tour. Meet the individuals pioneering a local anti-mafia movement and learn about Palermo’s journey towards justice and freedom.
• Street Food and History Walking Tour – This combined historical and foodie walking tour leads you through the heart of Palermo. Admire diverse architectural styles, traverse vibrant street markets, and sample local culinary delights, including panelle and arancine.
• UNESCO World Heritage Sites Guided Walking tour – Embark on a journey through Palermo’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the majestic Palatine Chapel and Palazzo Pretorio. This small-group tour includes a cultural exploration of the city’s architecture and a tasty local break featuring the traditional Sicilian cannolo.

Where to stay in Palermo for 2 days

For a full breakdown of the best neighbourhoods, my where to stay in Palermo guide covers every area in detail. 

My top picks for this itinerary, however:

Porta di Castro Boutique Hotel – a restored 16th-century townhouse with original stone walls, 300 metres from Ballarò Market. My luxury pick.

Palazzo Santamarina – beautifully restored palazzo with suites, spa and gym. I lived on the same street for a month and watched this building come back to life.

Family Affair Palermo – a stunning B&B in a beautiful building; excellent value for the quality.

Mamamia al Teatro Biondo – the best budget option in the centre, stylish and well-located.

Logistics – getting to and around Palermo

Getting to Palermo

Reaching Palermo from within Sicily or mainland Italy is straightforward, with various transport options available. Direct trains from cities like Syracuse, Catania, and Messina Centrale take between 3-4 hours. Bus services also offer flexibility and picturesque views of Sicily’s landscapes.

For those wanting independence, or who are undertaking a Sicilian road trip, driving is an option, although it requires careful navigation of the city centre’s Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL). Make sure to figure out where you’re going to park in advance.

Getting to Palermo from mainland Italy or abroad

Flights from major Italian cities such as Rome or Milan, or international hubs like Munich, London, and Paris, provide easy access to Palermo. For a more scenic, albeit lengthier, journey, trains from northern Italy or ferries from southern Italian ports are also available.

Getting to Palermo city centre from the airport

Once at Falcone-Borsellino Airport, buses and trains offer economical transport options to the city centre. They cost around €6 for a one-way ticket, with departures approximately every half hour to an hour. You can buy a ticket here.

Taxis, while pricier, are readily available, with pre-booking options for convenience. They typically cost around €60 to €80 to get to city centre. If you’d like to book in advance, you can do so here.

Getting around Palermo

If you’re visiting Palermo for a couple of days, the itinerary can comfortably be covered on foot due to the close proximity of key sites. For those with limited mobility, hiring a tuk-tuk is an excellent alternative, allowing you to travel effortlessly between each stop.

Historical and cultural context of Palermo

Palermo’s history in brief

From its inception as a Phoenician colony in 734 BC, Palermo has experienced a multitude of cultural influences that have formed its vibrant and complex history. The city, over centuries, has seen the reigns of the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards, among others. Each of these civilisations has left an indelible imprint on the city’s cultural landscape.

Architectural blend

The architectural styles of Palermo are a testament to this eclectic mix of cultures. Walking through the city, you’ll see the Byzantine mosaics, Arab domes and arches, Norman red and gold, and Spanish baroque influences all vying for your attention. It’s a true fusion of styles, creating a unique aesthetic that can only be described as “Palermo.”

Cultural fusion and the Mafia impact

Just as compelling is the city’s cultural fusion, particularly the Arab-Norman influences that have enriched Palermo’s cuisine, music, and traditional practices. However, the city’s more recent history has been marked by the dark shadow of the Mafia. Its impact has been profound, shaping socio-economic dynamics and leaving an imprint on the city’s fabric that’s still visible today.

Remember to be sensitive to this – this is an experience that the local population has both had to, and still has to, live through today. Do note too, however, that it’s highly unlikely that the Mafia will impinge on your own experience of Palermo.

Regeneration and resilience

In recent years, Palermo has made significant strides in casting off the yoke of the Mafia and championing urban regeneration. Cultural, social and economic rejuvenation has taken centre stage, with local communities reclaiming spaces and revitalising traditions.

Beauty beyond order

Let it be said that Palermo isn’t the cleanest or most orderly city you’ll visit. But to write it off for these reasons would be a grave misstep. Beneath its rough exterior, Palermo is a city of undeniable charm, vibrant street life and rich history. It’s a city that deserves to be appreciated for its character, resilience, and deep-rooted cultural heritage. Its story may be complex, but that’s precisely where its allure lies.

Palermo in two days: FAQ & tips

Must-see attractions in Palermo for a two-day visit

Within a two-day visit, the Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel should undoubtedly be on your itinerary, showcasing a spectacular fusion of architectural styles.

Don’t miss the impressive Praetorian Fountain, a symbol of Palermo’s rich history and quirky nature.

The No Mafia Museum offers insight into Sicily’s battle against organised crime, while the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio is an architectural gem with stunning mosaics.

Choose between the Museo Palazzo Mirto Casa Museo and Palazzo Conte Federico for an aristocratic immersion.

The Baroque-style Chiesa del Gesu is worth visiting, with its sumptuous interiors, and the bustling Ballaro Market is a feast for the senses, where you can explore local produce and try authentic street food.

Is 2 days in Palermo enough?

While two days in Palermo gives you enough time to explore key attractions like Palermo Cathedral and the Palazzo dei Normanni (Royal Palace), the city has so much more to offer. To truly appreciate Palermo’s vibrancy and soak in its local culture – from lingering in its bustling markets to savouring its street food – a longer stay would be beneficial. However, if your time is limited, a well-planned two-day itinerary can provide a rewarding snapshot of this fascinating city.

Local dishes to try during a two-day stay in Palermo

Palermo offers a rich culinary scene. Don’t miss out on Arancini – stuffed rice balls coated in breadcrumbs and fried; Panelle – chickpea fritters; Pasta alla Norma – pasta with tomatoes, aubergines, grated ricotta, and basil. Save room for Cannoli, a sweet treat filled with creamy ricotta. These, coupled with a sip of local Sicilian wine, make for a gastronomic adventure that complements your exploration of the city.

Is Palermo a walkable city?

Palermo is quite walkable, especially within its historic centre where numerous attractions are conveniently clustered. Exploring on foot allows you to immerse yourself in the city’s atmosphere, from its narrow cobblestone streets to the grandeur of its squares. However, do prepare for a fair bit of walking; comfortable shoes are a must, and carrying a bottle of water is advisable, especially during warmer months.

Safety tips when visiting Palermo

Palermo is generally safe, especially within the main tourist areas. As with any city, it’s important to maintain a sense of vigilance. If you’re exploring solo, feel confident but keep an eye on your belongings. Particularly in crowded places like markets, pickpockets can be an issue.

Ballaro Market is vibrant and usually safe during the day, but it’s prudent to be extra cautious after dark. Essentially, common sense and staying aware of your surroundings are key to ensuring a safe trip.

Continue Planning Your Trip To Palermo

If two days has you wanting more, my 3-day Palermo itinerary builds on this one with additional time in the Kalsa district and a day trip option to Cefalù.

For food, my Palermo restaurant guide covers the best spots across the historic centre – most of them close to the stops on this itinerary.

If you haven’t sorted where to base yourself yet, my where to stay in Palermo guide breaks down the best neighbourhoods with honest assessments of each.

You’ll find all our Palermo travel guides below—or browse our full collection of Palermo posts for more local insight, tips, and itineraries.

Planning a broader trip? Our Italy destination page groups all our regional guides in one place to help you explore further.