4 Days in Rome: A Lifelong Visitor’s Guide to Getting It Right

This 4-day Rome itinerary covers the city across four days – the historic centre, the Vatican and Trastevere, Ancient Rome, and the Borghese – with honest guidance on what to book in advance, where the experience actually changes based on how you visit, and where Rome rewards you most for slowing down. 

It’s built for travellers who want more than a checklist.

I’ve been coming to Rome since I was a child, which means I’ve had the luxury of moving through it at very different speeds and with very different eyes. 

There’s the Rome you see on a first visit – all Colosseum and Trevi Fountain and gelato at midnight – and then there’s the one that emerges when you slow down enough to notice the Caravaggio tucked inside an unremarkable church off Piazza Navona, or find yourself alone in the Sistine Chapel at 7:30 in the morning.

This itinerary tries to give you both. 

It covers the essential sights – because they are essential, and there’s no point pretending otherwise – but it also builds in the things that make Rome genuinely memorable rather than just photographed.

It also includes the aperitivo bars with views worth sitting for, the restaurants where the food actually justifies the booking, the moments the city hands you when you’re not rushing between monuments. 

Four days is a good amount of time here. Not enough to do everything, but enough to feel like you’ve understood something about the place.

What you will find in this 4-day Rome itinerary

I’m lucky enough to have been visiting Rome regularly since childhood, so I have a thorough understanding of how to best experience the city and what is and is not feasible to do within a given time frame.

Part of the beauty of Rome is found in those serendipitous moments of wandering, where you slow down enough to uncover scenes of everyday life, or off-the-beaten-path gems that you’d otherwise whizz past if you are following a more prescriptive itinerary. 

So while yes, this guide is presented as a structured itinerary, I’m not encouraging you to stick to it to the letter. Pick your must-dos and sees, book your tickets (I’m serious about this one), but above all else, allow ample time to move slowly, grab an aperitif or three and soak up the incomparable atmosphere of the city. 

Your 4-Day Rome Itinerary at a Glance

Map: 4 Days in Rome

Click on the map to view in full. Once you’ve opened the map, you can click on the three dots in the corner and save the map for future reference. 

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What to Book Before You Arrive

Rome is one of the most visited cities in the world and the places that matter most – the Vatican, the Colosseum, the Borghese Gallery – all require advance booking. Turn up without a ticket and you will lose significant time standing in queues, or miss things entirely.

Tickets that you should book in advance are: 

• Colosseum, Roman Forum & Palatine Hill
• Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel
• Borghese Gallery (you **must** book this well in advance)

Day 1 – The Historic Centre

Your first day in Rome is all about its historic heart—where grand landmarks meet character-filled backstreets. You’ll be exploring a compact yet densely packed triangle between the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and Campo de’ Fiori.

For a fantastic tour of Rome, follow the below route, but feel free to wander down any little cobblestoned street that catches your eye!

This area is a beautiful warren of cobbled streets with overhanging, rust-coloured buildings, comprising much of the centro storico. It’s also peppered with some of the city’s most famous landmarks, including the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Navona.

WALKING TOUR OPTION | If you’d like to get more familiar with the area with the help of a guide, this walking tour includes the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and Trevi Fountain. 

Stop 1 – The Pantheon

Start your morning by taking in the Pantheon in all its splendour. Entry is free, but as the day progresses the queue backs way out the door and snakes its way around the building. It’s therefore prudent to be amongst the first visitors.

You’ll likely pass this emblematic building a few times during your 4-day Rome tour and each time, I guarantee that you’ll stop to take it in once more. It is truly astonishing in real life.

The Pantheon’s history dates back to 27 BC, with its iconic dome completed under Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century AD—making it one of the best-preserved ancient buildings in Rome. It was initially dedicated as a temple to all gods before later being converted to use as a church.

The most remarkable thing about the Pantheon, age aside, is the engineering involved in its self-supporting dome and open oculus. With a diameter of 44.4 metres, it is the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world and it truly is a spectacle.

The Pantheon is also the resting place of several illustrious characters from Italy’s history, including some of its kings and the much celebrated artist, Raphael. 

Stop 2 – Campo dei Fiori

Next up is Campo dei’Fiori, where you’ll hopefully catch a market in full swing. This lively square is full of colourful market stalls and is encircled on all sides by tall Roman buildings, making the setting feel like a theatre where the market takes centre stage. 

To make the most of your visit, be sure to add the Campo de’ Fiori market to your itinerary. The market takes place from 7.30am – 1.30pm Monday through Saturday, and you’ll get to witness fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, and flowers being sold with great pomp and performance.

It’s a fantastic spot for people watching and its fringes are also lined with cafes and bars, so it’s easy to stop for a while, grab a coffee and take it all in.

When you’re done, the streets slightly to the south of Campo dei’Fiori that border the river are rather wonderful, and I’d highly recommend going for a wander. It is one of the top things to do in Rome to get to know the best shops and items people sell.

Make your way towards Piazza Farnese and then head towards Via dei Pettinari – a charming street lined with jewellery shops- towards the River Tiber and Ponte Sisto.

WORTH KNOWING | close to Piazza Farnese and Campo dei’Fiori is the unassuming Caffè Perù. This perfect little cafe is full of locals coming and going, is stuffed full of delicious pastries and is the perfect spot to grab an espresso. 

Stop 3 – Piazza Navona

Next, you will head back in the direction you came from (try take a slightly different route) to the Piazza Navona. As one of Rome’s most famous squares, Piazza Navona is full of life – and also, full of people.

It’s also home to magnificent Baroque architecture and statues. At the heart of Piazza Navona, Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi) stands as one of the most unmissable sights to include when exploring Rome in 4 days.

Commissioned by Pope Innocent X, the design of the fountain is elaborate and symbolic. The four statues represent the major rivers of the continents under Roman rule: the Nile (Africa), the Ganges (Asia), the Río de la Plata (Americas), and the Danube (Europe).

The figures themselves each symbolise a river – namely the Nile, the Ganges, the Río de la Plata and the Danube.

The whole installation is then complete with an Egyptian obelisk rising from the fountain, in honor of the Emperor Domitian, who had initially installed a stadium where Piazza Navona now lies in the first century AD (hence the rather stadium-like shape of the piazza!). 

Don’t forget to also take in the two smaller fountains that lay at each end of the piazza. Created by Giacomo della Porta in the late 1500’s, the Fontana del Nettuno depicts the god of the sea battling an octopus while the Fontana del Moro boasts another god of the sea. 

Stop 4 – Caravaggio at San Luigi dei Francesi

Lying right between the Piazza Navona and the Pantheon is the Church of St. Louis of the French (or San Luigi dei Francesci in Italian). 

Within the Contarelli Chapel at the church, are three masterpieces by Caravaggio that depict the lift of St. Matthew, comprised of a triptychthat include The Martyrdom of St. Matthew, The Vocation of St. Matthew and St. Matthew and the Angel. 

Commissioned by the Medici family, they offer a rare opportunity to view some of Caravaggio’s paintings in their original location. 

For your itinerary, make sure to include a visit to this church. Entry to the church is free, and to turn on the lights to view the triptych in all its glory is a mere €1—which is an absolute bargain considering that you’re viewing some incredible works by one of the world’s greatest artists.

Stop 5 – Temple of Hadrian

Built in honour of Emperor Hadrian in 145, who brought peace and prosperity to Rome during his 21-year reign, the Temple of Hadrian was, at the time of its construction, one of the largest temples in the city.

Today, all that remains of this gigantic temple are its eleven pockmarked Corinthian columns that soar imposingly over the square. 

Located in the arresting Piazza de Pietra, the ginormous columns of the temple hit you with a gut punch (but a good one!) as you enter the piazza. They have been incorporated into a 17th century palazzo that now forms part of Rome’s chamber of commerce.

While there is nothing as such to enter and walk around, the piazza and Temple of Hadrian make a great spot to pass through, serving as a reminder of the impressive might of Imperial Rome during its heyday.

STOP FOR COCKTAILS | If you’re feeling thirsty, the rather cool Salotto 42 is set on Piazza de Pietra, right across from the Temple of Hadrian. It’s a great place to stop for a spritz and watch the world go by. 

Stop 6 – Trevi Fountain

The Trevi Fountain, or Fontana di Trevi, is a site that has become synonymous with the city. It was built in 1762 by Nicola Salvi, inspired by original designs by Bernini.

The design is whimsical and mystical, representing a sea scene. At the apex of the fountain is Oceanus, the Titan of the Seas, who stands upon a shell-shaped chariot. 

The square in front of the fountain is a very small one, which gets very, very crowded as the day goes on. For anyone who wishes to visit the Trevi Fountain in relative peace and quiet, it’s imperative to go at dawn, or late at night. 

Legend says that if you throw a coin over your left shoulder into the water, you will return to Rome -so you better ensure to fit in some time for it during your visit!

FOODIE TIP | close to the Trevi Fountain, down an unassuming side street is Prosciutteria Cantina Dei Papi. This delicatessen serves the most delicious antipasti board – opt for the gourmet version and order some Italian wine to go with it. 

Stop 7 – Spanish Steps

Moving on from the Trevi Fountain, you’ll find another famous emblem of Rome nearby – the Spanish Steps. 

The Spanish Steps were designed by Francesco de Sanctis and were completed in 1723. The steps rise up from the Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità dei Monti church, where they meet the Palazzo del Quirinale. 

They lay at the heart of Rome’s shopping district and are lined with shops selling everything from shoes to antiques, while also being home to numerous cafés and restaurants.

In the summer months, the area becomes a popular gathering place for tourists and locals alike, although no matter the time of year, you’ll always find plenty of people milling about. 

At the base of the Spanish Steps you will find yet another Bernini statue and fountain – the Fountain of the Longboat (“Fontana della Barcaccia”).

The Bernini in question, however, is not the one you may be thinking of (Gian Lorenzo Bernini), but his father – Pietro – although his famous son is credited with helping complete the fountain after his father’s death in 1629.

Word of warning: as of 2019, it is illegal to sit on the Spanish Steps and you can be fined up to €400 if you’re found to be doing so – which is probably not something that you want to factor into your visit!

Stop 8 – Sunset from Ponte Umberto

I’d recommend that you spend the first evening of this suggested itinerary by the River Tiber, taking in the sunset from the Ponte Umberto.

From here you will catch the sun setting over the dome of St. Peter’s, giving you one of the best spots for sunset in Rome. From here you will also catch in frame the Ponte Sant’Angelo, the bridge which crosses the Tiber and presents an imposing approach to the looming Castel Sant’Angelo. 

Stop 9 – Castel Sant’Angelo

As your first day in Rome winds down, make your way to Castel Sant’Angelo, a unique landmark to include in your 4-day exploration of Rome (you might want to visit before heading to Ponte Umberto for sunset, depending on the time of year).

It was built between 12th and 15th century and stands guard over the Vatican City. It has served many purposes throughout its history – originally it was a fortress, then a papal prison, and finally a mausoleum for popes. Today it houses the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo.

OPENING HOURS & TICKETS | 9.00AM – 8.30PM Monday through Sunday. Purchase tickets in advance here. 

Day 2 – The Vatican, Trastevere and Aventine Hill

Day two of your itinerary starts you off bright and early in the Vatican, which comprises some must-see places for any art and/or history lover.

To discover the Vatican properly, allocate a good half-day. I’d advise that you start at the Vatican Museums first thing in the morning.

When you’ve finished being wowed by the artistic treasures in the Vatican City, you’ll make your way south to Trastevere, before crossing back over the River Tiber to finish the day with city views and sunset at the Aventine Hill. 

Stop 1 – Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museums

Sistine Chapel

The early bird catches the worm and the prize here is a pretty incredible one – the Sistine Chapel. If you want to go it alone on your visit to the Vatican, start at the Vatican Museum first and make your way straight to the Sistine Chapel before everyone else does.

We visited the Vatican with TakeWalks, and took their VIP Pristine Sistine Vatican Tour with Museum Breakfast. It was by far my highlight from our 4 day Rome tour and I can very highly recommend it.

Our guide Niccolo was a passionate, witty art historian who kept us engaged and interested during our 4 hour tour. 

We started with breakfast at 7.30am in the serene Pinecone Courtyard, before making our way straight to the Sistine Chapel before the crowds descended upon it.

Later in the day, hundreds of people stand shoulder to shoulder in the chapel, but I was absolutely astounded to find that our group of 14 people was alone in the Sistine Chapel for the vast majority of our visit. 

Before I knew what was happening, I found myself with tears streaming down my face.

In both the frescoed ceiling depicting the Book of Genesis and in The Last Judgement, which completely covers the altar wall, Michelangelo deals with complex, emotional subjects – including his own sexuality through a particularly jarring self-portrait.

In person, both the emotion and genius from these gigantic works are positively electric, and I couldn’t help in being moved. 

Vatican Museum

Our tour also took us through the rest of the Vatican Museum, including the impossibly impressive Raphael Rooms. It’s incredible to see in person works that you have admired copies of in books and online and the School of Athens was a particular highlight. 

Another area of the Vatican Museum that we passed through and which I was particularly taken with was the Pio-Clementine museum. Here, you will find some of the best examples of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures found anywhere in the world.

My favourite sculpture here and also, from the entire Vatican Museum collection I would say, was the Laocoön, which is a sculpture dating from around 30 BC that was discovered in 1506 on the Esquiline Hill in Rome.

It’s hugely stirring and depicts the Trojan priest Laocoön and his two sons losing a battle to the death with two sea serpents.

Finally, two other rooms that you will likely pass through anyway but should linger longer in to take in the details of are the impressive Gallery of Maps and the Gallery of Tapestries. 

Stop 2 – St. Peter’s Square

There’s a recurring theme in this 4-day journey through Rome—the name Bernini appears again and again. Where there’s something beautifully Baroque, chances are he played a role, and St. Peter’s Square is no exception!

Designed by Bernini in the latter part of the 17th century, St. Peter’s Square is positively vast, and can hold more than 300,000 people. The square is lined with columns, which are adorned by 140 statues that were created by the disciples of Bernini. 

At the core of the square is a giant, 25m-tall obelisk, carried from Egypt to Rome under orders from the Emperor Caligula in the 1st century AD. It was later moved and erected in the centre of St. Peter’s Square in 1586, where it still stands today.

It’s a great place to stop a while amongst the fountains and bustle to regroup after your visit to the Vatican Museums.   

Stop 3 – St. Peter’s Basilica

St. Peters Basilica is a spectacular Renaissance church, attributed to a number of architects that include Donato Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Carlo Maderno and, of course (it should come as no surprise at this stage) – Bernini.

Its dome (credit for which falls squarely to Michelangelo) dominates the skyline of Rome and is visible from miles away. 

Said to be built upon the burial place of St. Peter the Apostle, the basilica is also built over a set of crypts. Between both the crypts and main floor of the basilica, St. Peter’s is the resting place of 91 former popes, including the much-loved John Paul II. 

Entrance to the basilica is free, but lines will be long as the day progresses if you are not joining as part of a guided tour.

Tours that include the Vatican Musuem too typically include a speedy transfer between the museum and the basilica through a private passageway, which saves around 20 minutes. 

Within St. Peter’s Basilica are a number of world-famous pieces of art. Amongst these are Michelangelo’s Pietà, hewn from Carrara marble and Raphael’s Transfiguration, under which, rather bizarrely, you will find the body of Innocent XI lying in repose with a mask over his face and hands so you cannot see his bones.  

VISITING THE CRYPTS | It is possible to visit the crypts, but at an additional cost and only with a guided tour. You can view a range of options and purchase tickets here via Tiqets. 

CLIMBING THE DOME | For some all-ranging views over the Roman cityscape, it is also possible to climb the dome, or cupola, of St. Peter’s Basilica. This is also for an additional charge, depending on whether you decide to take the elevator, or climb the 320 steps yourself. 

Stop 4 – Walk to Trastevere

After visiting St. Peter’s Basilica, head down to the river Tiber and walk along the banks of the river until you reach the Trastevere neighborhood. On your walk, you can opt to incorporate the Belvedere del Gianicolo, scenic viewpoint with views over the city of Rome.

Stop 5 – Villa Farnesina (optional)

Along the edge of Trastevere that borders the Tiber is the Villa Farnesina, a Renaissance villa that is ornately decorated in frescos by painters Raphael, Peruzzi and Sebastian del Piombo.

Built in the early 1500’s by the richest man in Rome, Agostino Chigi, Chigi had the great Raphael paint the story of Cupid and Psyche to celebrate his love for Francesca, a poor girl from Venice who had captured his heart. 

After the deaths of Chigi and Francesca (buried in a Raphael-designed tomb), their heirs squandered their great fortune and the villa fell into the hands of the powerful Farnese family – hence the name it bears today.

The villa houses some incredible non-religious works by some big names from the Renaissance era and it’s definitely an off-the-beaten path gem that won’t be inundated with other tourists. 

You may have had your fill of art having viewed the Vatican, however, and no judgement from me on that! You may also struggle to get here before the villa closed at 2PM too, so this is perhaps a visit that is better if you’ve already been to Rome, and the Vatican, before. 

Stop 6 – Trastevere

Trastevere is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Rome and is home to many churches and monuments. It’s also a more rustic part of the city to saunter about in, although it’s not quite as quiet as it once was, as others have cottoned on over the years.

One of its highlights includes the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, built in the 5th century AD. This pre-medieval church is known for its 12th-century mosaics and features a lavish interior that includes 22 Roman columns and is set in the lively Piazza di Santa Maria. 

In the south east of the Trestevere neighborhood is the Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. This beautifully cloistered convent sits where the family home of Saint Cecilia, patron saint of music, once stood.

The convent houses Cavallini’s masterpiece fresco, the Last Judgment, painted in the 13th century and rediscovered in 1900, as well as a renowned sculpture of St. Cecilia by Stefano Maderno.

Thirdly, is the Chiesa di San Pietro in Montorio. Inside this outwardly unassuming church are a number of ornate chapels, a couple of which were designed by Renaissance artists Vasari and Bernini.

The church once also held Raphael’s Transfiguration in its collection, before it was expropriated by the French and then handed over to the Vatican, where it hangs today in St. Peter’s Basilica.

The church holds a particular Irish interest too, in that it is the resting place of two famous Irish chieftains, Hugh O’Neill and Rory O’Donnell, who resisted Tudor occupation of Ireland during the Nine Years War, before having to flee for their lives in the infamous ‘Flight of the Earls’ in 1607. 

FOODIE TIP | You’ll likely be very peckish by the time you reach Trastevere. For traditional fare and a great carbonara, head to Trattoria Da Enzo al 29. Alternatively, you can try Proloco Trastevere, where provenance and sustainability are held sacred. For pizza, visit the hip Seu Pizza Illuminati, which is known for offering some of the best pizza in Rome (reservations recommended). 

Stop 7 – Garden of the Oranges, Aventine Hill

You’ll end day 2 of your Rome itinerary with sunset from another vantage point.

This time from the Aventine Hill and the Giardino degli Aranci (or Garden of the Oranges), which is a rather special public square that is lined with fragrant orange trees, features medieval walls and offers wonderful views over the city of Rome and the river Tiber. 

While you’re in the vicinity, make sure to look out for the Buco della serratura dell’Ordine di Malta, a keyhole on the gate to the Order of Malta Headquarters in Rome, that frames the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica perfectly when peered through. 

Day 3 – Ancient Rome

Day three of this 4-day Rome adventure keeps you within a relatively compact area but takes you deep into the heart of Ancient Rome, with visits to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum.

You’ll also take in some more architectural work by the great master, Michelangelo, before getting up close and personal with the landmark that Romans like to refer to as ‘the Wedding Cake‘. 

Stop 1 – The Colosseum

The Colosseum is the most iconic emblem of the ancient city of Rome.

Completed in 80 AD and known initially as the Flavian Amphitheatre, the structure was originally built to hold gladiators and animals for combat. It later became a venue for more macabre entertainment, including the execution of early Christians.

To mark the Colosseum’s inauguration, the emperor Titus held 100 days of games, which took the lives of more than 2,000 gladiators.

In its heyday, the Colosseum could hold between 50,000-80,000 spectators, with many of the games held by the emperors to appease the people of Rome and to curry political favour and support. 

There’s no two-ways about it – tours of the Colosseum are heavily visited so to minimise your encounters with the hordes that visit later in the day I’d recommend that you visit first thing in the morning.

There is a huge amount of history to this truly fascinating piece of engineering, so I really do recommend that you visit as part of a tour.

I can highly recommend TakeWalks, who offer a small group,  skip-the-line tour that includes both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, along with the Palatine Hill too – all sites that you should see together.

However, so that you have some choice, here are my top Colosseum tours: 

Skip the Line: Premium Colosseum Tour with Roman Forum & Palatine Hill: one to take if you want to learn about both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. A 3 hour tour capped at a smaller number of 15 people, run by my favourite tour company TakeWalks.

VIP Colosseum Underground Tour with Roman Forum & Palatine Hill: an alternative to the above, for those who want to visit the underground part of the Colosseum to discover just how the Romans managed to orchestrate the complex, thrilling, and blood-chilling spectacle that they did (to do so, you can only visit with a licensed guide). 

1.5 Hour Colosseum Express Tour with Arena Stage Visit: If time is a little tight and you just want to visit the Colosseum, then this 1.5 hour express tour is covers all the highlights of Rome’s Colosseum.

You’ll enter through the Gladiators’ Gate right onto the arena stage, before climbing up into the stadium to experience the mighty amphitheater from all angles.

An alternative to visiting the Colosseum during the day, or if you’ve visited before

On this visit to Rome, I took an underground night tour of the Colosseum. Having visited the Colosseum a couple of times previously, this provided a totally different experience and one where we were the only group in the Colosseum – which was rather special.

You can read my full Colosseum by Night review – including what the underground is actually like after dark and whether the additional cost is justified.

Even if you’ve visited the Colosseum before, this provides a completely different visit to one during the daytime and is a tour I am glad to have done. Note that if you want to see the Forum too, however, that this is not included in this tour and you’d need to purchase a ticket (or a tour) separately. 

When done exploring the Forum, and for some spectacular views of the Colosseum, Roman Forum and of the city of Rome too, you simply must walk to the top of the Palatine Hill, which makes for a great photo spot and vantage point. 

The Palatine Hill is the most famous of Rome’s seven hills and in ancient Roman times, it formed the most desirable place to live in the city, where it attracted both emperors and aristocrats alike.

It is also believed to be the location of the cave where Rome’s founders, Romulus and Remus, were found by the she-wolf.

OPENING HOURS & TICKETS: Opens daily from 9:00 AM and closes at the same time as the Colosseum. Entry is included with all Colosseum tickets. For a combined guided tour of the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine Hill, I’d recommend the TakeWalks small-group tour.

Stop 3 – Domus Aurea (optional)

Domus Aurea was Nero’s Golden House and was considered to be the most extravagant construction in the history of Rome. Built after the great fire of 63AD, the Domus Aurea occupied a staggeringly large area of 50 hectares, which also included vineyards, corn fields and forests. 

The Domus Aurea received its name due to the huge golden dome which adorned it. The golden dome was just one ostentatious feature of this ginormous pleasure palace however, which boasted ceilings stocked with semi-previous stones, fresco covered walls and finishes of white marble.

There was also an artificial lake, and plenty of fountains and pools too. 

When Nero died, no one was particularly keen that his legacy lived on and Emperor Vespasian destroyed much of the Domus Aurea’s gardens, the area of which formed the grounds for the soon to be built Flavian Amphitheatre – ie the great Colosseum that we know today.

When Trajan built his thermal baths, much of the remains of the house were filled with soil and so the Domus Aurea found itself very much underground, as it still is today. This act did, however, preserve much of the integrity of what we see nowadays. 

Visiting is a little tricky, with sporadic opening times, but is a thoroughly unique experience. You may have better luck getting tickets by booking a guided tour, like this one, rather than booking a ticket directly. 

While many would be drawn to visiting the nearby Circus Maximus, you’ll get far more out of a visit to Domus Aurea (if you’re lucky enough to get tickets), as through multimedia and a guided tour, it will come to life so much more vividly. 

Stop 4 – Piazza Venezia and the Altare della Patria

One of the places you’re likely to come across without even trying is the rather hard-to-miss Alter of the Fatherland and the adjacent Piazza Venezia.

Piazza Venezia is the largest public space in Rome and the centrepiece of the Italian capital. It is named after the victory over Austria in 1849 and the subsequent unification of Italy under King Victor Emmanuel II. 

The monument is absolutely colossal and from its rooftop, offers resplendent, panoramic views of the city of Rome and the ruins of the Roman Forum. You can climb to the top for free, or elect to take the elevator for a fee.

It is also home to the Museum of Risorgimento, which explores the reunification of Italy. 

The monument receives a rather mixed reception from local Romans, who have nicknamed it the ‘wedding cake‘. Stylistically, many think it too large and too out of keeping with Rome and that its classical style would be better suited to a city like Vienna or Paris. 

There is also the association with the former Italian dictator Mussolini that it carries, whose office was based in the pink building on Piazza Venezia – the balcony of which he delivered many an infamous speech from.

He also commandeered the nearby Alter of the Fatherland, covering it with Fascist symbols. Although these were removed after the fall of Mussolini, its association with Il Duce has been rather hard to shake.   

Stop 5 – Teatro Marcello

Very close to Piazza Venezia is the Teatro Marcello, or Theatre of Marcellus. While you’re in the vicinity, it’s one of those things to do that’s very easy to append to a visit to the Alter of the Fatherland or the Capitoline Hill.

It’s especially quick to see too, as you cannot actually enter this former theatre as it houses a set of fully lived-in apartments!

When you consider that this theatre was built before the birth of Christ, then the fact that it is still in use today is pretty staggering. Begun by Julius Caesar and completed by Augustus in 13 BC, it was dedicated in the name of Augustus’s nephew, Marcus Claudius Marcellus. 

In its glory days, it was used to host acts of pantomime, poetry and music recitals and plays, and it could hold a not-to-be-sniffed-at crowd of 20,500.

What makes this theatre all the more interesting is that it is like a smaller version of the Colosseum, not too many people know about it and it is also a stone’s throw from the Colosseum itself. 

Stop 6 – Capitoline Hill

From the Teatro Marcello, take the grand, wide staircase to the top of the Capitoline Hill, which today houses the Capitoline Museum and the Piazza del Campidoglio. 

The Capitoline Hill has been a prominent location in Rome since the times of its earliest settlers. During the era of Imperial Rome, it started as a place of worship before becoming a centre of power due to the formation of the Senate. 

After the fall of Rome, the area had all but vanished by the Middle Ages and was a place where people used to graze their goats.

Fortunately, a couple of lofty-minded popes came to its rescue and in the 1500s the Renaissance’s favourite son, Michelangelo, swooped in to solve a number of architectural issues, which revolved mainly around a lack of symmetry and a lack of wow-factor for a site as sacred as this to Rome’s heritage. 

What resulted is the beautiful square that we see today, bordered by three buildings – the Palazzo Senatorio, the Palazzo dei Conservatori and the Palazzo Nuovo – which house the Capitoline Museum. 

The Capitoline Museum, the world’s first museum, is dedicated to the history of Rome. If you’ve visited the city before, this makes for a worthwhile detour at this point in your 4-day stay in Rome.

If it’s your first time in the city, save your energy for the other must-see sights packed into this 4-day Rome plan. However, be sure to climb the steps to Piazza del Campidoglio for a stunning view.

Opening hours & tickets | Open daily from 9.30AM – 19.30PM // You can purchase tickets here. 

Day 4 – Borghese Gallery, Gardens and Leisure

By the fourth day of this Rome itinerary, the pace will have slowed down a little.

You’ll fit in one last must-see in Rome—the Galleria Borghese—and then have some time at the end to do as you please, whether that be amble around some more, indulge in some retail therapy, or fit in a special experience, such as a food tour, to remember your time by.

Stop 1 – Borghese Gallery

If you are an art lover, then the Galleria Borghese, or Borghese Gallery, is heaven on earth as it presents a remarkable concentration of masterpieces and a setting where the rooms themselves are as glorious as the art in them. 

Top of the list for me before visiting was the Caravaggio collection – David with the Head of Goliath being the particular draw.

Of all Caravaggio’s works on display, however, it was Young Sick Bacchus, that captivated me the most – and that’s why seeing famous paintings in person always provides the most interesting perspective.

In the Borghese Gallery, there are no perspex screens, no roped off paintings –  literally no barriers between you and these priceless compositions. I also cannot go on further without mentioning Bernini’s sculptures.

The detail, movement and emotion that has been crafted by Bernini using such an immovable, emotionless material is so thoroughly gripping, and I found The Rape of Persepina and Daphne & Apollo particularly enrapturing. 

There is often a temporary exhibition on show at the Borghese Gallery, and we were incredibly lucky to see ‘Archaeology Now‘, which was an installation of over 80 artworks, weaved in amongst the ancient masterpieces, from Damien Hirst’s Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable.

Why you should visit the Borghese Gallery with a tour guide

Having now visited the Borghese Gallery, I wish we had done so with a tour guide and when I return, I will definitely do so.

There is just so much to see and many of the gallery’s most famous pieces are simply scattered throughout – I had waltzed past Raphael’s Girl with a Unicorn without even noticing initially! 

If you visit with a guide, they’ll be able to show you the gallery’s most important pieces, as well as offer context, stories and anecdotes about the works, their artists and the story of how they came to be, that will make your visit a whole lot more engaging.

As visits are limited to only 2 hours too, an expert guide helps make the most of your time. 

My top three Borghese Gallery tours are as follows: 

• Borghese Gallery Tour & Tickets: With Bernini, Caravaggio, & Raphael: Another TakeWalks tour (yes, I am a big fan), that has received 900+ 5* reviews. The tour lasts 2.5 hours and is limited to 15 people. 
• Borghese Gallery Revealed Private Tour with an Art Historian: An opportunity to have a more personal tour with an art historian and expert. This private tour has received flawless reviews (tickets need to be purchased separately).
• Borghese Gallery: Tour with Gardens: an extremely well reviewed tour (limited to 20 people) with over 1000+ satisfied customers. This gallery tour also includes a walk through the Borghese Garden and finishes at Piazza Popolo with beautiful views of Rome.

Stop 2 – Villa Borghese Gardens

Amongst the well-worn, paved streets of Rome you’ll find respite in its green lung – the Villa Borghese Gardens. Set on the Pincian Hill, the gardens house the aforementioned Borghese Gallery and are set within a generous 80 hectare green area. 

The gardens came to fruition because of a man called Cardinal Scipione Borghese (who is also responsible for the Borghese Gallery), nephew of a Borghese pope. He wanted to shroud the powerful Borghese family in an even greater veil of glory – and what was a more suitable way, pray tell, than creating Rome’s largest gardens and an elaborate villa featuring the hottest artists of the day?

Today, the gardens are the most popular in Rome and are open to the public to enjoy for free from dawn until dusk each day. If you’re wondering what to do for 4 days that doesn’t include sightseeing or museums, then the gardens offer perfect respite from the crowds.

Dotted with sculptures and fountains, and even an ornamental lake, you can rent bikes to cycle the vast gardens or hire a rowing boat and gently loll on the water amongst the ducks. 

While at the Villa Borghese, make sure to obtain a wonderful, almost birds eye view of Rome from the Pincio Terrace, which is situated directly above Piazza del Popolo and from which you can see many iconic emblems of Rome, including the Alter of the Fatherland and St. Peter’s Basilica.

GLAM IT UP | While in the area, it would be rude not to stop off at the Stravinskij Bar at the Hotel de Russie for a cocktail! While pricey, its glamorous outdoor terrace is a welcome oasis in the centre of Rome. 

Stop 3 – Shopping in Rome

If you’re a bit of a shopaholic, or are even just interested in picking up some quality items during your 4 day trip to Rome.

By day four, I’m sure that you can’t have helped but to notice by this stage the strength and depth of Rome’s offerings when it comes to shopping! Below are some areas to focus your attention towards.

Via del Corso | Home to all the high street players like Zara, H&M, Calzedonia, Gap, Kiko, Mango etc

Via dei Condotti | For Italian (and non-Italian) designer garb like Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dolce & Gabbana head straight to the Spanish Steps end of Via dei Condotti – it’s a haven for designer stores. 

Via dei Coronari | This beautiful street in the centro storico is so picturesque that it’s worth strolling down in its own right, even if you don’t plan on purchasing anything. It is, however, the place to go if you’re searching for unique antiques and vintage items.  

Via Del Boschetto | On this shopping street in the Monti district you’ll discover lots of artisanal stores, including clothing, jewellery, antiques, tea, handbags and more. 

Via Frattina | You just can’t beat a good quality pair of Italian leather shoes – they’re an investment that will last for years if you buy well. To buy yours, head to Via Frattina near the Spanish Steps. 

Stop 4 – A Food Tour to Finish

If you’ve time to spare on your last day in Rome, then a really great way to remember your time is to go on a food tour.

On a good food tour, you’ll discover tasty Roman dishes and ingredients and discover parts of (and places to eat in) Rome that you wouldn’t discover on your own. 

My top picks for the best food tours in Rome are as follows: 

• Taste of Testaccio Rome Food Tour: The area of Testaccio is known for being the centre of food in Rome and is also home to the famous Testaccio market.
  
  On this 4-hour tour, you’ll get to the heart of the Testaccio district, where you’ll try regional food in local establishments and meet market traders and restaurant owners along the way. 
• Rome Food Tour by Sunset around Prati District: This 4-hour evening food tour is limited to 13 people and takes place in the Prati district.
  
  You’ll visit gourmet food stores and sample as many as 20 different foods – including everything from cheeses to pizza. You’ll also receive recipes and tips from the artisanal food makers that you meet.  
• Small-Group Rome Food Walking Tour: Trastevere, Campo de’ Fiori, Jewish Ghetto: Limited to groups of 12 people, this food tour brings you to three well-known food areas in Rome.
  
  You’ll visit the lively markets at Campe de’ Fiori, sample local classics in Trastevere and try specialities like suppli and fried artichokes in the Jewish Quarter. 

Where to Eat and Stay for your 4 Days

Where to Eat in Rome

Rome doesn’t require much guidance on eating – the city largely rewards whoever wanders into it hungry. But a few specific places are worth planning around.

Pianostrada | Via della Luce, 65 | Google Maps

A genuinely aesthetic venue with an open kitchen and a beautiful outdoor garden. Substance matches style – modern Italian cooking, a well-chosen wine list, and focaccia worth ordering specifically.

Casa Coppelle | Piazza delle Coppelle, 49 | Google Maps

My pick for a proper dinner in the centro storico. Atmospheric, extensive menu running from tasting options to à la carte – and the best service I received anywhere in Rome.

Retrobottega | Via della Stelletta, 9 | Google Maps

A restaurant I regretted not having time for on my last visit. Slick minimalist interiors a stone’s throw from the Pantheon, inventive seasonal tasting menus for meat eaters and vegetarians.

Antica Trattoria Angelino | Piazza Margana, 37 | Google Maps

I stumbled upon this quite by chance, drawn in by its location in a quiet, almost secret square close to Piazza Venezia. In business since 1658 – and the Roman classics it serves are the reason it’s still here.

Da Armando al Pantheon | Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31 | Google Maps

Don’t turn up without a booking – this place around the corner from the Pantheon is a proper institution. The right address for Carbonara, Amatriciana and Cacio e Pepe done correctly.

L’Orso 80 | Via dell’Orso, 33 | Google Maps

A welcoming family-run establishment on the gorgeous Via dell’Orso. Classic Roman dishes, specials that include steak with truffle, and antipasti platters worth ordering as a meal in themselves.

Ai Tre Scalini | Via Panisperna, 251 | Google Maps

The most rustic option on this list – a comfortable, busy little spot that’s perfect after a day around the Colosseum or Roman Forum. Hearty, honest cooking and a genuinely local feel.

Trattoria Da Enzo al 29 | Via dei Vascellari, 29 | Google Maps

My pick for eating in Trastevere. Simple, pared-back, Roman classics including fried artichokes. Come early or expect to queue.

Pizzeria Da Baffetto | Via del Governo Vecchio, 114 | Google Maps

Come for the pizza, not the service – which is famously abrupt. Thin, crispy Roman crust, a full range of toppings, divine. Arrive at opening or tables will be gone within twenty minutes.

Giolitti | Via degli Uffici del Vicario, 40 | Google Maps

A Rome institution and still one of the best gelato I’ve found in the city across many visits. The espresso bar and outside tables make it worth building into a morning or afternoon stroll.

Where to Stay in Rome

Choosing the right area matters as much as the hotel itself. 

I prefer to base myself in the triangle between the Pantheon, Piazza Navona and the Spanish Steps – the buildings are beautiful, the area is lively, and you can reach most of the main sights on foot from here. 

Monti and Trastevere are popular alternatives with real character, but the centro storico puts you closest to Day 1 of this itinerary.

Where I stayed

On my most recent visit I stayed at Kalos – a plush, spacious, stylishly decorated apartment in the centro storico booked through Plum Guide. For vacation rentals in Rome, Plum Guide is my first stop – a more curated and consistently high-quality alternative to Airbnb, with all homes personally assessed before listing.

Hotels

• Palazzo Dama – a seriously quirky 5-star 200m from Piazza del Popolo, with an outdoor pool and terrace in a garden of lemon trees.
• The Glam – a stylish 4-star in Monti with a rooftop pool and views over the Roman skyline. Central enough to reach everything easily and close to Roma Termini.
• Casa Pietra – a gorgeous guesthouse near the Pantheon looking onto Piazza del Pietra. The best “luxe for less” option on this list, with rooms that look directly onto the Temple of Hadrian.

More Than 4 Days in Rome

Four days gives you Rome’s greatest hits. If you have longer, these are the additions worth considering – both within the city and beyond it.

Within Rome itself, the Catacombs, the Baths of Caracalla and the Testaccio food market are all worth adding to a longer stay. 

Additional places to visit in Rome include the Catacombs, the Baths of Caracalla and the Testaccio food market if you haven’t already visited as part of a food tour on day 4 as per one of my suggestions above. 

If your four days in Rome are part of a larger, once-in-a-lifetime trip to Italy—or if you’ve come from further afield—it’s completely understandable that you might want to explore more of the country while you’re here.

Tivoli | a very popular day trip from Rome is to Tivoli, to visit the former vacation homes of the ancient Roman and Renaissance elite – Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este. Check out this excellent tour. 

Pompeii | The tragic story of the ancient town of Pompei, destroyed by the 79AD eruption of Vesuvius, has captivated visitors since its rediscovery. It’s incredibly interesting and highly worth a visit. Book a guided tour that includes an Amalfi Coast drive here.

Tuscany | Florence is an easy two-hour train journey from Rome and warrants considerably more than a day trip. My Florence travel hub is the place to start if you’re adding it to your itinerary.

Rome Travel Tips and Logistics

It looks further on the map, but I’d recommend flying into Fiumicino if you can as transport links to the center of Rome are better connected. 

Getting from Fiumicino Airport to Rome city centre

Private transfer | I booked a direct, private transfer with GetTransfer. The return journey cost me €60 (as opposed to the standard €50 fare each way).

Enter your start and end dates into their search engine and then sit back and wait, as registered drivers provide you with a quote. Payment was handled online and our driver met us with a sign at arrivals. 

Fiumicino Airport to Rome by train | There is also a dedicated train service between Fiumicino and Roma Termini – the Leonardo Express – which takes 30 minutes and costs €14 each way.

The train station is located in the airport and you can book tickets here. You’ll then just need to make your way on foot, by metro, or by taxi to your accommodation from the station.

Getting from Ciampino Airport to Rome city centre

Private transfer | As I did with my transfer from Fiumicino Airport above, you can book a private transfer with GetTransfer here.   

By bus | There is no trainline from Ciampino to Rome city centre, so your next best option is getting from Ciampino to Rome city centre by bus. Buses are run by Terravision and cost €11 for a return journey, with a 40 minute drive time to Roma Termini.  

Getting to Rome by train

I find travelling by train in Italy to be great, especially between larger cities. Popular lines are frequent and often high speed, and are reasonably priced too considering how comfortable they are.

The larger hubs then link with regional trainlines too, making a lot of those smaller places a little less harder to reach too.

You will have no trouble getting to Rome from places like Florence, Naples, Bologna, Milan (or onwards from Rome either). You can search for routes and book tickets here.  

Getting around Rome by public transport

Purchasing tickets for public transport in Rome

You can purchase tickets for the metro, local bus and tram from kiosks or machines that you’ll find in and around the stations. The same tickets are valid for the metro, local bus and the tram. 

A standard single ticket costs €1.50 and is valid for 100 minutes across public transportation in Rome – including unlimited transfers. There are also a number of daily options available – 24 hours, 48 hours etc.

Taking the Metro in Rome

The Rome Metro only has three lines, all which extend from the suburbs and intersect at Rome Termini. If you’re basing yourself in or very close to the centro storico of Rome (which I recommend that you do), then it’s unlikely that you’ll need to take the metro.

There are a few stops close to some of the major sights, but I’d recommend that you make your way between these on foot if you can.

The most likely time you would take the metro is to make your way to and/or from the Vatican from the opposite side of the river Tiber and Rome’s centro storico as this is a bit further afield, however you’ll see much more of the city by taking the 30-40 minute walk by foot.  

Taking the local bus in Rome

Bus lines in Rome are very extensive, but they can also be very crowded.

There can also be some seriously heavy traffic in Rome and if you’re trying to get anywhere in a hurry then you run the risk of getting stuck in some traffic jams – for that reason, I wouldn’t recommend the bus in Rome for a shorter visit.

Taking the tram in Rome

Finally, there is also an overground tram line in Rome, connecting the east-west axis of the city. There are limited stops in the centro storico however. The most useful of these lines is the connection between Trastevere to the Argentina stop close to the Pantheon, or the one at the Colosseum.  

Top tips for visiting Rome

Is 4 days enough for visiting Rome?

The itinerary I’ve outlined in this post is jam-packed and I could easily have added plenty more things to do in Rome to the list.

Before visiting Rome, accept that you won’t get around to everything in one trip. That’s part of what makes it worth returning to.

Four days is plenty to cover the major sights, eat well, and get a genuine feel for the city.

Is 4 days too much for visiting Rome?

Rome has enough to occupy weeks, and four days doesn’t begin to exhaust it.

If you have less than four days, don’t be put off. Pick one or two anchor sights per day and leave the rest unstructured – Rome rewards wandering as much as planning.

What is the best time to visit Rome?

If your schedule allows, avoid the summer months.

Rome is busy year-round, but the contrast between summer and winter is significant.

I’ve discovered that there is a sweet spot towards the latter end of October into the start of November – busy season has finished by then so the crowds have thinned, while the weather is still mild and for the most part pleasant – although you run the risk of encountering some showers. 

Late spring works well for the same reasons – improving weather before the main tourist season takes hold.

If you’re visiting in summer, book everything earlier than you think necessary.

Safety in Rome

I’ve never felt unsafe in Rome. The usual city cautions apply – keep personal items close and in a bag that’s not easy to access.

You’ll get the usual approaches from vendors around tourist sites – a firm “no thanks” is all that’s needed.

Watch out for dress codes

Dress codes at restaurants are taken seriously, particularly in the evening.

Churches require shoulders and knees covered – worth planning for in summer when you’d otherwise be in lighter clothing.

Is it customary to tip in Rome?

Tipping is not compulsory but around 10% is the norm for good service. If you see servizio on the bill, gratuity is already included. Many card machines in Rome aren’t configured to accept tips – carry some cash if you want to leave one.

The opening times are not always the opening times!

Opening times on Google are not always reliable for restaurants in Rome – I’ve arrived at places listed as open to find they weren’t starting service for another hour. If you’re making a special trip somewhere, call ahead.

Planning Your Visit to Rome

Rome rewards you for coming back. There’s always something you didn’t quite get to – a museum you ran out of time for, a neighbourhood you meant to explore on the last afternoon but didn’t. 

If you’re still working out how much time to spend here, my guide to how many days in Rome will help you nail that down before you book.