Spain

Palaces, neighbourhoods & Andalusian tables

Spain gives you good reason to make culture the centre of a trip: in its palaces and churches, certainly, but also in the way a square fills towards evening or a bar becomes part of the day. My most detailed guides here follow Seville and Granada in Andalucía. Their Islamic and Christian architectural legacies are a starting point; the pleasure is in seeing how differently those histories, landscapes and habits have shaped the two cities.

Arches framing the curved galleries of Plaza de España in Seville
Plaza de España, Seville
The Giralda rising beside Seville Cathedral
The Giralda, Seville

Choose your city

Seville

Choose Seville for grand interiors with plenty of life around them. The Alcázar’s courtyards and gardens deserve an unhurried visit, while the cathedral makes its impression through sheer scale. Between them, leave time for tapas bars, neighbourhood cafés and a walk across the river to Triana. Extended stays have made me particularly fond of those ordinary parts of the day. You’ll find help with the major sights and the decisions that make the rest of your visit easier.

The Alhambra below the snow-covered Sierra Nevada in evening light
The Alhambra, Granada

Choose your city

Granada

Granada changes the feel of a trip through Andalucía. Steep lanes, the Sierra Nevada backdrop and the Alhambra above the city give it a different character from Seville. The palace complex is a substantial visit in its own right, but I would protect time for the Albaicín and Sacromonte too: the walk between neighbourhoods tells you far more than a dash to a single viewpoint. Stay overnight if you can, so the Alhambra doesn’t consume your entire experience of the city.

A useful rule

Give each city its own time

Seville and Granada belong together on a longer Andalusian trip, but a day trip between them can leave a lot of the day on the road. If both interest you, separate stays give you evenings in each and more room around the headline sights. If you only have one base, choose the city you most want to spend time in before adding excursions.

The Puente Nuevo spanning Ronda’s deep gorge
Ronda, Andalucía

Beyond the city break

Planning a longer Andalusian trip

If you have a week or more, the Andalucía itinerary helps you connect the cities with other places across the region. It sets out options for seven, ten and fourteen days, so you can choose a route that suits your time rather than adding stops one by one.

Start with the length of your stay

The itinerary guides will help you work out what fits before you commit to hotels. Seville’s food and neighbourhoods benefit from spare time; in Granada, make room around your Alhambra visit for the wider city.

Visiting in winter

Winter can be a lovely time for the interiors, long lunches and walking that draw me to these cities. It is worth distinguishing between them, though: Granada can feel considerably colder than Seville, especially once the sun has gone. These guides set out the appeal and the compromises of each.

Every published guide

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