Driving the Ring of Kerry: A Scenic Local’s Guide

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When driving the Ring of Kerry, you need to have a plan. In this post, discover all you need to know, including top tips that explain how exactly to pull off the perfect Ring of Kerry road trip.

When we emerged from the first Coronavirus lockdown in Ireland, a little dazed, somewhat frazzled and in definite need of some R&R, we fled to one of the places in Ireland that I know best – Kerry.

Kerry has been a popular haunt for my family since the days of my childhood and an escape to its sanctuary-like, verdant valleys and indigo waters seemed like just the tonic.

What was meant to be a few days in Killarney turned into a week, after which point we cancelled all plans to head to County Clare and extended our time in The Kingdom for a few days more.

On our last visit, we focused our attention further along the majestic Iveragh Peninsula, going deep to discover the best of its ancient stone formations, become more familiar with colourful towns like Kenmare and Caherciveen and bask in an endless amount of otherworldly views. 

Having whirled through a week in an almost dream-like state it was then on to Dingle, after which we had great intentions to make good on our previously cancelled plans to County Clare.

Alas, the lure of the famous Ring of Kerry was too strong and we found ourselves bailing on Clare yet again (I’m sorry Clare, we’ll make it up to you soon), dashing back to the Iveragh Peninsula once our time on the delightful Dingle Peninsula was up.

And so it is that you can say that I’ve picked up a fair bit of knowledge while driving the Ring of Kerry that’s worth imparting.

I’d originally intended on writing one large ‘bumper guide’ to the Ring of Kerry, but once I got started I soon realised that there’s way too much information to relay so a series of posts are the result instead. 

In my other posts, discover the Ring of Kerry highlights that I think you should stop at, why you should drive the Skellig Ring (published soon), learn about an under the radar mountain pass detour and find the perfect Ring of Kerry hotel for your stay (published soon). 

This post, however, focusses on how best to drive the Ring of Kerry route. Whether you’re planning a road trip for one day or one week, learn all you need to know to get the most out of your visit. 

Table of Contents

1. Information about the Ring of Kerry drive
2. Driving the Ring of Kerry, Ireland – some logistics
3. Planning a Ring of Kerry itinerary – how much time do you need?
4. Ring of Kerry map with suggested stops
5. Undertaking the Ring of Kerry drive
6. Tips for driving the Ring of Kerry route
7. Getting to the Ring of Kerry
8. Where to stay on the Ring of Kerry

Information about the Ring of Kerry drive

Why the Ring of Kerry is famous and what you can expect

The Ring of Kerry is famed for its outstanding natural beauty, historical sites, unique winding roads and charming towns and villages that dot the route.

It offers some of Ireland’s best scenery and with a plethora of things to see and do, it’s a completely customizable route whereby visitors can pick and choose stops along the route based on their interests. 

The county of Kerry in Ireland is known colloquially as ‘The Kingdom’ and even as a loyal Kilkenny woman, I’d have to admit that it’s not misnamed – Kerry is positively sublime.

Circuiting the glorious part of Kerry that is the Iveragh Peninsula, one of Ireland’s most far-flung areas that is perched on the edge of Europe, the route takes in ancient forts, glacial valleys and lakes and cloud-shrouded mountain peaks that includes Ireland’s tallest, Carrauntoohil.

You’ll see castle ruins, endless swirling seas in a myriad of blues and silver sands that stretch on without end.

Along with that, you’ll dine on fresh seafood that’s likely been caught locally that very day, be at the receiving end of some genuinely warm hospitality and be sure to bump into a local character or two along the way who will only serve to enhance your trip. 

In short, the Ring of Kerry drive packs all the things that Ireland is known and loved for into one positively magnanimous location and scenic driving route. 

RELATED READING | 13 Underrated Historical Sites in Ireland That Tourists Often Miss

Ring of Kerry history

The Ring of Kerry finds its roots in the Victorian era. In the latter half of the 19th century, the Great Southern and Western Railway (“GS&WR”) expanded their operations across the island of Ireland, at its peak running 1,800 km of railway lines. 

In 1854, in a bold move that was the first of its kind, the Killarney Junction Railway (run by GS&WR) opened a hotel next to Killarney station in a bid to drive tourism to the town.

This move went well and later resulted in the opening of further railway hotels by GS&WR in County Kerry at Waterville, Caragh Lake, Kenmare and Parknasilla (which is one of my favourite hotels in Ireland, incidentally). 

Fast forward to 1893, when the owner of Leslie’s Railway Hotel in Caherciveen, a Mr. T.J. Leslie, established what was then called the ‘Grand Atlantic Coach Tour‘. In essence, this was the original format of the Ring of Kerry route that is famous today. 

Tourists arrived by rail to Caherciveen from Killarney and had lunch at Mr. Leslie’s Railway Hotel, before making their way on to Waterville by coach where they would spend the night.

The next day, they would move along the coast to Kenmare, stopping for lunch at Parknasilla Hotel along the way before they’d catch the evening train back to Killarney from Kenmare.

The route was clearly a hit and as time went on it evolved into the Ring of Kerry route that we know today.

Is the Ring of Kerry worth it?

The Ring of Kerry scenic drive is absolutely worth doing. It’s an incredibly scenic drive that offers stunning views of moody waters, magical inlets, endless greenery and great valleys and mountain ranges.

More than that, it’s littered with pieces of Ireland’s deep, rich cultural heritage – from ancient stone forts to once-grand castle ruins, colourful towns and villages that burst with character and life, along with the more haunting scars on the landscape of past lives and harder times in Ireland’s history. 

In particular, if you choose to discover the Ring of Kerry slowly, taking a number of days, then you’ll have time to really feel the essence of the region, discover some lesser known gems along the route and be left with a love for the region and a strong urge to come back and discover it some more! 

Driving the Ring of Kerry, Ireland – some logistics

Where does the Ring of Kerry start and finish

The Ring of Kerry is intended to be driven as a circular route that starts and finishes in Killarney. That’s not to say that you need to commence your road trip in Killarney, however – as a looped route you can start and finish the Ring of Kerry drive wherever you like.

Kenmare is a great base from which to explore the Iveragh Peninsula and visitors may find the town itself more appealing than the town of Killarney (which shouldn’t be confused with neighbouring Killarney National Park, which is spectacular).

It’s quite a bit less touristy, is well situated for day trips and is also home to some fantastic restaurants. 

What is the best way to drive the Ring of Kerry?

It’s best to drive the Ring of Kerry in a clockwise direction. For a start, it makes more sense to me as your car will be on the left side of the road, which places you closer to the sea and leads to more unobstructed coastal views.

An age-old question is whether you should drive the Ring of Kerry clockwise or counterclockwise. The traditional route goes anti-clockwise, but all tour buses also go the same way – and you risk being stuck behind one. If you drive in a clockwise direction, you won’t get stuck behind a tour bus. 

If you are a less confident driver, you may not enjoy meeting the tour buses head on if you drive the route clockwise. However, there are very few places whereby the road isn’t wide enough to allow both you and a bus to pass each other without having to pull in. So clockwise definitely pips it for me. 

Is it hard to drive the Ring of Kerry and is driving the Ring Of Kerry dangerous?

It’s not particularly hard to drive the Ring of Kerry, nor is it dangerous. Due to the popularity of the route, much of the road has been upgraded and I think it’s a slightly outdated notion that the road is bad and difficult to drive – these are memories I have from visits as a child in the 1990’s, but is not so true to today.

If you venture off the main Ring of Kerry route (like taking the Skellig Ring detour that I highly recommend doing), that’s where the roads may get a little more interesting. What I mean by this is they are often narrow, winding and rather bumpy.

It’s all part of the fun though and you’re less likely to meet as much traffic on these roads and little to no buses. Once you take your time and are prepared to pull in to the side to let oncoming traffic pass you will be absolutely fine. 

I find in general, us Irish people are relatively well-mannered drivers who are considerate towards other road users – just make sure to reciprocate and say thanks if someone pulls in to let you pass! 

Can you walk the Ring of Kerry?

Hikers will be pleased to know that there is a 214km long walking path along the Ring of Kerry that is called The Kerry Way. It has its own separate route that roughly tracks the Ring of Kerry route.

It’s a well-trodden path that’s also well marked (you’ll notice signs for it a lot if you spend time on the Iveragh Peninsula) and it takes around 8-10 days to do it in full. You can read more about it here.

I personally think it would be a beautiful way to experience the Ring of Kerry and I plan to do it (or at least part of it) in the future. 

The Ring of Kerry also caters well to cyclists, with a signposted Ring of Kerry cycling path that takes you off the main road and uses quieter country roads when possible. 

Should you travel the Ring of Kerry by bus or by car

Ah, this old chestnut.

While I understand some may be limited by time, unavailability of car rentals or an inability (or lack of desire) to drive, the best way to see the Ring of Kerry is to drive it independently. 

I’m going to go out on a limb here and guess that anyone who doesn’t sing the Ring of Kerry’s praises may have done it as part of a bus tour (although there are many people who’ve taken the bus tour and loved it too).

With a bus tour, you’re exceptionally limited in terms of where you stop and how long you stop for. 

Being shepherded from one stop to another across the whole day just wouldn’t be for me and you won’t get those serendipitous moments where you wander off-trail and discover some hidden gem (like we did when we came upon the incredibly scenic route that is the Ballaghbeama Gap).

I also recommend taking longer than a day to explore the Ring of Kerry, which you can’t do by bus tour. 

If your own personal circumstances mean that it’s a bus or nothing, then try opt for a tour on a smaller bus. This mini-bus tour is capped at 15, is exceptionally well reviewed and is a little bit flexible in terms of where you stop.

Better yet, if your budget stretches to it I’d recommend hiring a private driver, so you can completely customise your Ring of Kerry itinerary.

If not though, the mini-bus tour mentioned above is a great alternative. With both tours you’ll also benefit from a local guide thrown into the mix in the form of your driver.

Planning a Ring of Kerry itinerary – how much time do you need?

Ring of Kerry Route at a glance

• Distance | 179km
• Start/End | Killarney
• Duration | 3.5 hours driving non-stop. 1+ days realistically 
• Best time | outside peak season – April/May & September/October

How long does it take to go around the Ring of Kerry?

If you were to continue without stopping, the actual Ring of Kerry drive time would be around 3 hours to drive the 172km route – let’s say 3 hours 30 minutes to allows for some slower driving due to unfamiliarity with the roads. 

If you were to add the Skellig Ring to your route, you’re looking at in excess of 200km.

This would take you around 4 hours of driving, depending on how you return from Valentia Island to the mainland (you could take the bridge across from Portmagee, for example, and depart the island via the car ferry at Knight’s Town). 

All the above is, of course, with absolutely no stops included which is not how anyone drives the Ring of Kerry.

How long it takes to drive the Ring of Kerry will be entirely dependent on you as an intrepid explorer and how much time you want to give the route.

That can range from a day up to a week or more if you want to include some day hikes, cycles or if you simply want to spend some time in the slower pace of more far-flung locations like Waterville, Valentia Island or Caherciveen (which I’d highly recommend). 

I will delve into more of this further below. 

Can you drive half of the Ring of Kerry

If you’re tight on time, driving half of the Ring of Kerry is somewhat of an option. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that the highest concentration of best stops along the Ring of Kerry are at the very end of the peninsula, almost exactly halfway through the drive.

As a looped drive too, by the time you get this far you’d have to turn back anyway, so you might as well continue on to complete the whole loop. 

If you’re too tight on time, you could do somewhat of an abridged loop drive from Killarney, by driving a Killarney – Moll’s Gap – Kenmare – Ballaghbeama Gap – Glenbeigh – Killorglin – Killarney circuit.

At 100km it’s an approximately 2 hour drive (that’s if you don’t stop) and you would still get to see some spectacular scenery along the way.

Do bear in mind though that it deviates massively from the official route and you’d miss out on pretty much all of the dramatic views of the coast that the Ring of Kerry is famous for. 

Driving the Ring of Kerry in one day

A lot of visitors do tend to drive the Ring of Kerry in one day. If you elect to do so and want to do it any sort of justice, plan for a long day of exploring. I’d say anywhere from 7-10 hours would be a fair assessment. 

To successfully pull off any Ring of Kerry one day itinerary, you’ll want to prioritise what it is you want to see along the route.

It can be tempting as you start off to pull over at each beautiful moment where some fingers of sunlight dance across a purple mountain, or round the corner for yet more breathtaking vistas of the sparking Atlantic. It’s a sure fire way of tiring yourself out, however. 

Remember that there are some great stops along the second half of this scenic tourist drive (especially those around Caherciveen) and you don’t want to be jaded by constantly getting in and out of your car by the time you reach it or even worse – decide to drive on by without stopping. 

How many days are needed for your Ring of Kerry itinerary?

You might have picked up on the fact that I’ve (not so subtly) being trying to persuade you to spend longer than a day exploring the Ring of Kerry. But just how much time do you need?

For a start, I’m going to completely remove any time spent in Killarney and the surrounding National Park from a one day drive for the purposes of this article.

This is a beautiful area of Ireland that deserves at least a day or two in its own right. If you’ve only got one day on the Iveragh Peninsula, don’t drive the Ring of Kerry, hire a bike and spend your day exploring Killarney National Park instead.

At a push, you can discover (some) of Killarney National Park and the Ring of Kerry in two long, well-planned out days. 

Now that that’s out of the way, let’s get into what’s realistic to fit in, depending on the number of days you have to spend. 

1 day | a busy day where you’ll need to keep on the move and not spend too much time lingering along the Ring of Kerry route, with no time for additional activities. You’ll manage to squish in the Ring of Kerry’s main highlights. 

2 days | you’ll get to properly explore the majority of stops along both the southern and northern side of the Iveragh Peninsula and comfortably fit in the Skellig Ring.

I’d suggest overnighting somewhere halfway along the route, like Waterville or Caherciveen. I stayed at Quinlan & Cooke Boutique Townhouse in Caherciveen and loved it.  

3 days | A third day will allow you to explore that little bit deeper, fitting in a boat trip to or around the Skellig Islands, spending an extra day exploring Valentia Island, going for a hike or going horse-riding, for example. 

4+ days | If you would like to do more than one of the activities I’ve mentioned above in the 3 days section, I’d start to tack on extra days to allow for them.

Ireland being Ireland, I’d consider throwing in a buffer day in case you get bad weather if there are some things to do that you really want to fit in. 

Check rates and see more of images of Quinlan & Cooke’s gorgeous bedrooms here

Undertaking the Ring of Kerry drive

Now we have reached the meaty part – where to stop on the Ring of Kerry and some details about each one. First up is a short list of what I think are best places to visit on the Ring of Kerry and those which I think you should prioritize seeing. 

After that, each of the named stops along the Ring of Kerry receives a small section of its own, allowing you to assess what might capture your own interest and if it’s something that you’d like to add to your Ring of Kerry itinerary.

Best stops on the Ring of Kerry drive

If you’re wondering where to stop on the Ring of Kerry, the best points incorporate some of the colourful villages and towns along the Ring of Kerry, along with some purely sightseeing and historical points. I’ve written an entire post that addresses what I think are the most worthy stops.

RELATED READING | Ring of Kerry Highlights – Best Stops & Map [+ bonus detours!]

Once you start hopping out of the car and spending 30 minutes or more at each of these Ring of Kerry stops mentioned in the post, your time gets swallowed up pretty quickly, so plan accordingly based on how much you want to fit in.

Killarney

Time required: 1-2 days

Killarney is the start and end point for most people who undertake the Ring of Kerry scenic drive. While set beside some beautiful lakes, the town of Killarney itself mightn’t hold the greatest appeal for a traveller seeking a more authentic experience, as it’s rather commercialised and geared towards tourists.

When conjuring images of Killarney, most people are thinking of Killarney National Park – some 26,000 of acres that are home to some of Ireland’s most beautiful scenery and iconic attractions.

Many of the most popular attractions within Killarney National Park are in and around Killarney town – which, along with the fact that there are some fabulous hotels in Killarney, is why the town makes a good base for exploring and why people confuse the two. 

Before you start hitting the Ring of Kerry scenic drive in earnest, my recommendation is not to count the majority of sites in Killarney National Park in your road trip time. It will take you at least a day or two to explore the national park in its own right, so allocate days accordingly to this. 

Accessible from Killarney you will find sites like Ross Castle, Muckross House, Torc Waterfall, Muckross Abbey, Innisfallen and Lough Leane, Muckross Lake and the Upper Lake.

I’d set aside a day or day and a half to explore these and the best way to make your way around between sites is by bicycle. While not part of the Ring of Kerry route, if you’d like to visit the Gap of Dunloe and Kate Kearney’s Cottage then you’ll need at least another half a day. 

I have an entire post dedicated to exploring Killarney, where you can decide how you’ll tackle this lively town, the Killarney lakes and the sublime Killarney National Park. 

RELATED: The Best Things To Do In Killarney Ireland – A Curated Guide

Ladies View

Time required: 20 minutes

While you can visit Ladies View while doing some other activities around Killarney town, it makes sense to stop by when you start the Ring of Kerry drive and depart Killarney for Kenmare.

Reached via a winding, narrow road that makes its way through the National Park,  Ladies’ View was given its name following a visit by Queen Victoria in 1861. Her ladies-in-waiting were so taken with the view that it was named after them. 

There is no way you will miss this spot when driving – there is a car park on the right hand side of the road and a cafe and gift shop on the left.

Take care when pulling in and out, as the viewpoint is sandwiched in between two bends in the road. Make sure, too, to take the little track out onto the ridge to the left of the viewing point for the most unspoilt views of the Upper Lake.

Moll’s Gap

Time required: 20-30 minute drive to Kenmare

Moll’s Gap received its name as the result of an enterprising lady called Moll who ran an illegal pub (or a “shebeen”) during the construction of the main road from Killarney to Kenmare in the 1820’s.

⁣The main road is today what we would consider a narrow mountain pass road, that offers stunning views of roughhewn countryside. 

If you continue on from Ladies’ View coming from the direction of Killarney, this will bring you onto Moll’s Gap. Just as you hit Moll’s Gap, you will find an Avoca – which is a good pitstop if you need to use the loo or grab some coffee and food. 

It’s also worth knowing that from Moll’s Gap, you can access the Black Valley, which is a southerly access point for Lord Brandon’s Cottage and the Head of the Gap of Dunloe. 

Detour | The Ring of Kerry route will then direct you off Molls Gap towards Kenmare once you reach the Avoca, but I’d recommend continuing on for a couple of kilometres, as it will bring you to Lough Barfinnihy, which offers, probably, one of the most dramatic aspects of scenery along the drive.

Pop ‘River Finnihy Viewpoint‘ into your satnav and that will get you there. You can then turn around and rejoin the Ring of Kerry route

Foodie tip | less than 5km further on the from where you’ll be directed to follow the Ring of Kerry route at the Avoca, if you continue down the road you’ll come to a bright yellow cottage, called The Strawberry Field, which serves up a wide range of mouthwatering sweet and savoury pancakes (the crepe version, not US pancake style). 

Detour – Ballaghabeama Gap

Time required: 1.5 hours from Moll’s Gap to the end of Ballaghbeama Gap and on to Kenmare

I’m going to let you in on a little secret here. Ballaghbeama Gap is an incredibly unspoilt stretch of road, that almost seems impossibly narrow and travels upwards to pass through a section of rocky mountain that is littered with boulders and black-faced sheep. 

It’s exceptionally quiet and you may not even encounter anyone else on the route. It will take you around 15 minutes to pass through the narrow mountain pass in one direction.

Head as far as Glencar on the map and then turn around and make your way through the gap again for double the amazing views on your way back towards Killarney.  

This is a great option to take if you really want to discover a hidden gem and get off the beaten track. Read this post for more information on driving the Ballaghbeama Gap and how to slot it into your Ring of Kerry route. 

READ NEXT | Ballaghbeama Gap – a Mountain Pass Drive in Kerry Worth Taking

Kenmare

Time required: 30 minutes to an hour or two

Even if just for a fleeting visit, Kenmare town should form one of your stops on the Ring of Kerry. Also, if you have time or are not too interested in using Killarney town as a base, then I’d highly recommend staying here a night or two.

The town is nestled between mountains at the head of Kenmare Bay and is full of brightly coloured shopfronts and buildings. It places you out on the coastline, where you’ll be able to access parts of Ring of Kerry and Wild Atlantic Way easily.

It also connects very well with West Cork and can act as a start and end point to the less popular, but stunningly wild, rugged and elemental Ring of Beara drive, which you can undertake as a day trip.

There’s also a stone circle within walking distance of the town that dates back to prehistoric times. 

Foodie tip | If you’re in Kenmare in the evening, I can highly recommend a visit to Mulcahys for creative dishes created using the best of local ingredients in an intimate atmosphere. Nearby, Lime Tree Restaurant is also highly acclaimed. 

Sneem

Time required: 20 minutes

Those on the hunt for cute towns along the Ring of Kerry scenic drive will be very taken in by Sneem. The picturesque village is mainly set along either side of the main road that runs through it and its traditional buildings and shopfronts are well maintained and are painted in vibrant colours. 

It’s a nice spot in which to stretch the legs and to wander about in for a few minutes. It really is quite small, however, so you won’t need too much time. 

Near to Sneem (on the Kenmare side), is the famous Parknasilla Hotel, one of GS&WR’s original railway hotels. If you’re looking to stop off for a day (or more) of relaxation while driving the Ring of Kerry, book a night or two here, as Parknasilla is the perfect location for this.

Set on large private grounds that weave their way along the shoreline, it boasts miles of private coastal walking tracks, lots of on-site activities like archery, sea-kayaking and tennis, a spa and a great restaurant and bar. 

Check rates and see more of images of Parknasilla’s spectacular grounds and facilities here

Staigue Fort

Time required: 30 minutes

Although it’s a mere 5-minute diversion off the main road once you leave Sneem, a visit to Staigue Fort deposits you in the wilderness and really fires the imagination as to what life in ancient Ireland may have been like all those years ago.

Reached via a narrow country lane, you’ll need to drive slowly and pay heed to oncoming cars. As you make your approach to the car park the fort will reveal itself it you.

Set into a craggy, wind-battered hill its dark grey stones melt in quite inconspicuously with the multitude of greens that surround it.

As you draw closer to the fort, however, you’ll realise that it’s anything buy inconspicuous. As one of the finest stone forts on the island of Ireland the stonework is exceptional. It’s also exceptionally old and could date as far back as 2,500 years ago. 

There are basic toilet facilities in a prefabricated building in the carpark, along with a horsebox selling coffee and treats. 

Derrynane and Caherdaniel

Time required: anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours or more

The tiny village of Caherdaniel finds itself located along one of the most scenic stretches of the Ring of Kerry. Its name comes from the nearby stone fort (“caher” means “fort” in Irish), which dates back to the 7th century AD. 

The village itself is a mere meeting of some roads, with a smattering of houses and two pubs. From the village you’ll be able to reach the townland of Derrynane, which I’d highly recommend not skipping as it’s one of the best places to visit on the Ring of Kerry.

Derrynane Beach is no secret amongst the Irish, so if you’re searching for a quieter spot you’ll find just that in Castlecove Beach, where on a clear, bright day you’ll discover incredibly turquoise waters and silver sand. Again, it’s perfect for a dip in the waters. 

Finally, are Derrynane House and Derrynane National Historic Park. The house is the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell (1775 – 1847), who is one of Ireland’s most famous and important politicians. Both house and gardens are open to the public to visit. 

Loher Stone Fort

Time required: 20 minutes

As you approach the seaside village of Waterville, a few hundred metres off the road you will discover Loher Stone Fort.

It dates back to around 900 AD, likely serving as a protective structure for a local chieftain in early Christian Ireland, based off its thick, tall walls and the brilliant views of the surrounding area it boasts. 

It is impressively well preserved, with the foundations of several interior buildings have been left intact too. While each and any ring fort I see never ceases to amaze me, at a push, if you’re a little tight for time, I’d leave this off your Ring of Kerry itinerary.

Instead, favor fitting in a visit to Cahergall and Leacanbuaile stone forts – Leacanbuaile interior’s are particularly well preserved too and both, when viewed together, edge it over Loher.

Eightercua Stones

Time required: 10 minutes

Myths and legends abound in this area of Kerry, and it is little surprise due to the thick scattering of ancient archeological sites throughout this corner of Ireland. These four standing stones, the tallest reaching nearly 3 metres in height, date back nearly two millennia to 1700 BC.

Rather fantastically too, they align with the September Equinox which is the moment the Sun crosses the celestial equator— this being an imaginary line in the sky above the Earth’s equator from north to south.

The stones are understood to form part of a Megalithic tomb and as Irish mythology would have it, it is the burial place of the Milesian queen Scéine, who was the wife of Amergin, a Milesian invader.

The Milesians were Gaels who travelled from Spain and wrested control of the lands from the Tuatha Dé Danann, a magical race of god-like people who were then forced underground (this is where Irish fairies originated from).

The Milesians formed the basis of the Celtic people who we, the modern Irish, are descended from. 

If you’re a fan of mythology and have a strong enough imagination to look past what you see in front of you, this one is a must and it really doesn’t take too long to visit either. 

Waterville

Time required: 10-15 minutes (unless you’re overnighting here)

Waterville is one of the Ring of Kerry’s more unique towns, in that it is in fact the only one that is right on the coast. It’s sandwiched between two areas of water, as Lough Currane runs along the back side of the narrow strip of land that the town occupies. 

The town is associated with the late actor Charlie Chaplin, who used to holiday here regularly and you’ll find a statue of him along the shoreline.

If you’re stopping off in Waterville, make sure to take to the promenade that runs along the sea’s edge and behind the Charlie Chaplin statue – it’s a great stretch of seafront that boasts a commanding view of Ballinskelligs Bay. 

Focusing merely on Waterville’s association to Chaplin is seriously underselling its local lore, however. As you might have already guessed due to its close proximity to nearby sites like the Eightercua standing stones, this is an area that is steeped in folklore. 

Legend has it that the grand daughter of Noah (of Noah’s Ark fame) and Ireland’s first invader, Cessair, is said to have landed in Ballinskelligs Bay. It’s also reported that the Milesians settled here in 1700 BC and that the pre-Christian archaeological sits scattered around the area were largely constructed by them.

Waterville is also renowned for Waterville Golf Links, which is one of Ireland’s top-rated golf courses, so if you fancy swinging a club while driving the Ring of Kerry, then here is a choice location to do it in. 

If you’re also wondering where to stop on the Ring of Kerry to spend the night, Waterville is a great location as it’s close towards the most westerly end of the Iveragh Peninsula and is a good area to use as a base.

Opt to stay in Charlie Chaplin’s old haunt, the Butler Arms Hotel, which offers a cosy retreat from a commanding position along the Atlantic Sea in Waterville. 

Detour – Skellig Ring

Time required: 3-4 hours minimum (easily a day if you include a hike)

Taking the detour to drive the Skellig Ring is the best choice you’ll make while driving the Ring of Kerry – it turns out the one of the best parts of the Ring of Kerry is not even on the official route at all!

Instead of driving the 16km from Waterville to Caherciveen along the Ring of Kerry route, you will take a detour towards Ballinskelligs from Waterville instead, undertaking a looped route of approximately 45km instead (it’s around 60km if you opt to drive out to Valentia Island which I highly recommend).

You will follow a stupendously beautiful route that is jam-packed with points of interest and incredibly scenic views. 

You can read more about driving the Skellig Ring here (published soon), but in short the stops are as follows: 

Ballinskelligs – a seaside village in a Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region) with a beautiful stretch of beach which includes Ballinskelligs Castle ruin. 

St. Finian’s Bay & Skellig Chocolates – probably one of the most scenically located chocolate factories in the world, where you can taste and watch the chocolate being made. There’s also a café and shop onsite too. 

Coomanaspic Pass – a signature discovery point along the Wild Atlantic Way route, this winding uphill road rewards you will expansive views of patchwork fields and inky-blue waters from above. 

Kerry Cliffs – a stunning alternative to the Cliffs of Moher. 

Portmagee – a colourful fishing village named after a smuggler, from where all eco and landing tours of the Skellig Islands go from. 

Skellig Islands – one of Southwest Ireland’s most revered spots. If you’re lucky, snag a space on a landing tour to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Skellig Michael, where you can visit the ruins of an ancient monastery and retreat and visit the beehive huts.

Valentia Island – one of Ireland’s most underrated gems and the place from which the  world’s first transatlantic cable was laid, Valentia Island can be reached by bridge from Portmagee, as well as by car ferry to its main town of Knights Town.

Expect a rugged, untouched landscape, phenomenal sea views, especially from places like Geokaun Mountain and Bray Head and one of the world’s oldest and longest trail of Tetrapod tracks, which are thought to date back some 350 million and 370 million years ago. 

Caherciveen

Time required: 30 minutes – 1 hour

As you begin your loop back towards Killarney along the north-facing edge of the Iveragh Peninsula, you’ll pass through the market town of Caherciveen, whose tall, colourful houses, many with traditional shopfronts preserved, line the main road. 

Caherciveen is not only famous for having given the world T.J. Leslie – the man who kickstarted the Ring of Kerry route in the 1890’s – but is more widely known as the birthplace of Ireland’s most famous statesman, Daniel O’Connell, who was born in a house just outside of the town. 

Stop off to walk along its long main street and pay a visit to the Old Barracks to learn more about O’Connell’s life as well as some local history. 

Foodie tip!

Just before you enter Caherciveen from the Portmagee/Waterville side, there is a turn off to Renard Point, where the ferry to Valentia Island runs from the mainland.

Close to the pier is O’Neill’s The Point Seafood Seafood Bar, where the atmosphere is warm, the interiors are inviting and the seafood is exceptional.

Cahergall & Leacanabuaile Stone Forts

Time required: 1 hour to view both forts

In my mind, paying a visit to the stone forts a couple of kilometres outside of Caherciveen is one of the best things to do on the Ring of Kerry. Just as it is awash with castle ruins, there is quite a scattering of old ring forts throughout the Irish countryside.

What is far more novel, however, are two that are so close together and that are in such exceptional condition. Cahergall and Leacanabuaile are fantastic examples to visit.

While over the centuries many ring forts will have been built onto and built over as their uses changed, it’s very easy with these two forts to cast your mind and imagination back to the times when they were built. 

Cahergall is the more impressive of the two and in my opinion, should be viewed second – pay a visit to Leacanabuaile first. There is space along the road to park your car close to the narrow country lane that will bring you to both forts. 

Ballycarbery Castle

Time required: 10 minutes

Much of Ballcarbery Castle is in ruin and you cannot physically enter the structure, but as it is so close to Cahergall and Leacanabuaile forts you might as well visit when you are in the locality. 

Just as the name of the nearby town of Caherciveen is linked to them, Ballycarbery Castle was also built by a McCarthy Mór chieftain – but this time in the 1400’s and for a son, Tadhg.

Its story follows a path similar to many Irish castles – it fell into British hands in subsequent years, was blown up by Cromwellian forces in the 1600’s, had a house built upon it at some point and then finally, fell into ruin. 

It’s a rather haunting edifice, sitting in desolate surroundings beside a body of water. Much of its remaining walls are shrouded in green vegetation but it still strikes a commanding figure along the landscape and is worth the brief detour. 

Glenbeigh and Rossbeigh Beach

Time required: 20 minutes – 1+ hours 

By the time you’re heading for the small village of Glenbeigh, you will be well on the home stretch. When leaving Caherciveen, instead of punching Glenbeigh straight into your satnav, make sure to enter “Rossbeigh Beach Overlook“. 

This will bring you on a short detour along a narrow coastal road that tracks down the side of a hill, offering some exceptional views of both the Atlantic Ocean and the gloriously golden 6-mile stretch of sandspit that is Rossbeigh Beach,  a blue flag beach that is safe for swimming and exceptionally clean.

The village of Glenbeigh is small, but as an intersection of the Kerry Way walking trail and the Ring of Kerry driving route, there are number of shops, pubs, restaurants and hotels. 

Detour – Caragh Lake

Time required: 30 minutes for a quick look, or 1 day to enjoy the surroundings & activities

Situated in the Reeks District, which holds in its midst Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s tallest mountain, Caragh Lake is a slight deviation off the Ring of Kerry route.

Formed as a result of glacial activity, the lake is fed by the Caragh river and is a beautifully tranquil spot from which to enjoy water-based activities like kayaking, paddle boarding or fishing. 

In particular, it’s renowned for its quality trout, salmon and perch fishing and it’s possible to hire a boat and take to the waters for the day. It’s also surrounded by woodland which is the perfect place for walking. 

If you do choose to stay a while at Caragh Lake, two wonderful country house options that sit on the lakeshore are Ard na Sidhe and Carrig Country House. 

Kerry Bog Village Museum

Time required: 1 hour

It all seems a little bit twee to me as an Irish person, but if you have no clue as to what a rural Irish cottage and village would have been like in past centuries, then you may want to pop in here – and it’s definitely one to keep on your radar if rain decides to mess with your plans. 

Modelled to resemble a small village in 19th century Ireland, the bog village showcases the lives of the people who lived in Ireland during the famine years and late 19th century.

Children (and adult animal lovers) will be thrilled to learn that there are also Kerry bog ponies and and Irish Wolfhound onsite. 

Killorglin

Time required: 30 minutes

Killorglin is a lively market town that is mostly known for one thing – King Puck and the annual Puck Fair. Taking place in August of each year, traditionally, a wild male goat would have been captured from the nearby mountains and would preside over the festival that runs for three days – bizarre, I know!  

Nowadays, the goat is a domesticated one that is completely socialised with and comfortable around humans. He is closely tended to during the festival and is accompanied by a vet.

Celebrations include a horse fair, a cattle fair and a whole host of festivities – there is essentially one big party in the town for a period of three days. 

If you visit outside of this time, you’ll find a little less to occupy you. There are plenty of places to eat in Killorglin however, and it may be a good spot to pull in for a bite to eat if you are ravenous. The town is buzzy and colourful, with some artisanal shops to browse in too. 

Tips for driving the Ring of Kerry route

Tip 1: be prepared for rain and having to alter your plans

The weather in Ireland can be extremely changeable – what starts out as a sunny, clear day could end in torrential rain, or vice versa. With that in mind, have some ‘rainy’ day activities earmarked along the route, just in case.

Places to visit along the Ring of Kerry when it’s raining include Derrynane House, Skelligs Chocolate (on the Skellig Ring), the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre on Valentia Island, the Old Barracks in Caherciveen and the Kerry Bog Village Museum. If in doubt, take shelter in a traditional Irish pub along the way. 

Tip 2: how to navigate your way around the Ring of Kerry

If you will be relying on WiFi and plan on using Google Maps, make sure to download an offline version of the Ring of Kerry area before you set out for the day. On a multi-stop journey, I like to enter as many stops as possible into the map at the start.

It gives a better sense of the whole route and I get some weird satisfaction from pressing ‘done’ at each destination when I reach it!

Tip 3: take your time when driving but be considerate towards other road users

There’s no shame in driving slowly while exploring the Iveragh Peninsula – many others will be doing the exact same. Bear in mind too though that the road is also used by ordinary people who live, work and pick their kids up from school in the area.

If someone is tailgating, stay calm, drive at a pace you are comfortable with and pull in to let them pass you once you find a safe spot to do so. 

Keep an eye out too for bikes and farm machinery – again, don’t rush to pass them but wait for a safe stretch of road to do so. 

Tip 4: what to do if you’re tight on time

If you’re tight on time but would like to undertake a coastal drive in Ireland, consider the Slea Head Drive on the adjacent Dingle Peninsula instead, as you’ll be able to whip around that in about half a day.

Otherwise, pick out a couple of locations only that you plan to stop at, or limit yourself to exploring Killarney National Park, Moll’s Gap and Kenmare town instead. 

Tip 5: earmark some places to eat along the way

There’s nothing worse than being hangry while on a road trip and not being able to find somewhere decent to eat.

Do a little bit of research in advance and have a shortlist of places you might like to eat at drawn up before you go. That way, when you reach a town and are feeling peckish you know exactly where to go.

Tip 6: make sure that you’re dressed appropriately

As previously mentioned, a fine day could easily turn to a rainy one so make sure you are prepared for all sorts of weather on your drive. Most importantly, I’d say make sure to have a wind and waterproof jacket.

I have a number of Lululemon jackets that I find perfect for Irish conditions that I wear all the time. They are breathable, do what they are supposed to and are stylish to boot. Alternatively, something like this is a good choice.

Footwear is also a consideration and a light boot might be advisable, depending on where you’re going.

I find my ON Cloudrock Waterproof boots perfect for Irish conditions – I wear them almost every day when walking the dogs in the Irish countryside and after more than a year of daily use they are still going strong.

Tip 7: don’t do what the other tourists do

There are some things you could bet your money on that the majority of other tourists to the Ring of Kerry do. These are things like: visit as part of a bus tour, drive the route in one day, base yourself in Killarney and visit in the middle of summer.

Get away from other tourists by travelling independently, stay longer than a day and try to stay or base yourself in towns that are a little less tourist-packed for a better experience – try Caherciveen, Waterville or Portmagee.

Allocate time to go for a hike or two, lounge by the beach on a sunny afternoon or go off-route down smaller roads to see what you’ll discover. 

Getting to the Ring of Kerry

When we talk about how to get to the Ring of Kerry, we’re really talking about how you can get to your starting point, Killarney. There are a number of different ways you can do this. 

Nearest airports to the Ring of Kerry

The nearest airport to Killarney is Kerry Airport, the small regional airport at Faranfore which is 17km and a 15-minute drive away from Killarney. Its flight schedule is quite limited – namely to Dublin, London, Manchester, Faro, Alicante and Frankfurt-Hahn. 

Next closest are Cork International Airport at 95km away and Shannon Airport, which is 134km away. Dublin Airport is 300km away and is a 3+ hour drive. 

Getting to Killarney by train

There is a train station in Killarney town that links up with a couple of routes within Ireland. Via Mallow, you can reach both Cork and Limerick Junction stations. From Limerick Junction, you’ll be able to join lines that take you to Limerick city, Galway, Dublin and Waterford. 

Check www.irishrail.ie for more information and schedules. 

Getting to Killarney by car

As one of Ireland’s most popular tourist destinations, there are plenty of roads that lead to Killarney! Some of them are motorways, but as you get closer to Killarney and further from urban hubs like Dublin, Galway, Limerick and Cork, the roads become a little more regional.

From these cities, however, they are good quality roads of the ‘N’ designation, which is only one level down from motorway classification. 

Should you wish to travel to Killarney by bus from another destination within Ireland, have a look at the Bus Éireann website.  

Where to stay on the Ring of Kerry

Don’t forget that the Ring of Kerry is a popular route and that good accommodation can get booked out. To be safe, book your accommodation well in advance. You can discover where to stay in this post (published soon). 

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