How to Visit Pompeii: A Guide Built on 25 Years of Returning

This guide to visiting Pompeii covers everything you need before you go: how to get there, when to visit, how to buy tickets, how to navigate the site, which are the must-see spots, and where to stay if you’re making a proper trip of it.

I first visited Pompeii as a child on a family holiday more than 25 years ago. 

I’ve been going back ever since – to watch new sections open, to revisit favourite spots, and most recently to spend eight hours working through the site methodically after the House of the Vettii finally reopened after a 20-year restoration. 

What follows is everything I’ve learned across those visits, distilled into what you actually need.

Visiting Pompeii: Key Facts at a Glance

How Long to Spend at Pompeii

On my most recent visit, I spent nearly eight hours exploring the ruins!

While that might sound excessive, it’s surprisingly easy to lose track of time here (especially if you’re a bit of a boffin who also suffers from FOMO). However, most visitors won’t need quite that long to get a good feel for the site.

For a satisfying visit, I recommend:

• Half-Day Visit (3-4 hours): Enough time to see the major highlights like the Forum, Amphitheatre, and some of the best-preserved houses. This works well if you’re on a tight schedule or visiting with children.
• Full-Day Visit (5-7 hours): Ideal for history enthusiasts who want to explore beyond the main tourist routes. This will give you time to discover quieter corners and lesser-known gems (like the House of the Golden Cupids, my own personal favourite).

How to Get to Pompeii By Train & Car

I’ve reached Pompeii in various ways over the years, but the train is by far the most straightforward option. On my last visit, I actually stayed in Pompeii town at a lovely B&B called Residenza Madonna, but most visitors come as a day trip from Naples or Sorrento.

Visiting Pompeii from Naples

The Circumvesuviana Train

This is the local commuter train that runs between Naples and Sorrento. Here’s what you need to know:

• Station: From Naples Centrale, follow signs downstairs to the Circumvesuviana platforms
• Journey time: 35-40 minutes
• Cost: €3.30 one-way (as of January 2025)
• Frequency: Every 30 minutes
• Stop: Get off at ‘Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri’

A heads up – the Circumvesuviana can get quite crowded, and it’s a known hotspot for pickpockets. Keep your bags zipped and close to you.

The Campania Express Option

If you’d prefer a more comfortable journey, there’s also the tourist-focused Campania Express:

• More spacious carriages with air conditioning
• Guaranteed seating
• Fewer stops
• Cost: €15 one-way, €25 return (as of January 2025)
• Runs April-October only
• Less frequent than the Circumvesuviana

Visiting Pompeii From Sorrento

The same train options apply in reverse:

• Circumvesuviana: 30 minutes, €3.30
• Campania Express: 20 minutes, €15 return
• Both depart from Sorrento’s main station

Tip: The Campania Express might seem pricey compared to the regular train, but after once waiting 40 minutes for a jam-packed Circumvesuviana in July in the dead heat of summer, I’d say it’s worth considering during peak season.

Visiting Pompeii As a Day Trip from Rome

Making a day trip from Rome to Pompeii is completely doable. The journey breaks down into two simple train rides: a high-speed service to Naples, followed by a local train to the ruins.

First, catch a high-speed train from Rome Termini to Naples Centrale (70 minutes, from €19.90 if booked in advance). These sleek trains run every half hour, making the journey a breeze. Check timetables and ticket availability here – both TrenItalia and Italo cover the route.

Once in Naples, follow the signs downstairs to the Circumvesuviana platforms, where you’ll catch a local train to Pompeii Scavi-Villa dei Misteri (35-40 minutes, €3.30).

For a more comfortable journey from Naples, consider the tourist-focused Campania Express (April-October only). At €15 one-way, it offers guaranteed seating and fewer stops, which is a welcome upgrade if you’re visiting during peak season.

Tip: Book your morning high-speed train in advance to secure the best fares, but consider leaving your return time flexible. You can easily purchase your return ticket at Naples station when you’re ready to head back to Rome. If you’re worried about the fast trains selling out in peak season, do reserve in advance. However, do also know that you won’t be left stranded, as you’ll always be able to pick up a ticket for the (much slower) regional train.

Alternative Transport Options

By Car

I wouldn’t generally recommend driving unless you’re staying in Pompeii itself. However, if you do drive:

• Follow signs to ‘Scavi di Pompei’
• Use the A3 motorway, taking the ‘Pompei ovest’ exit
• Several car parks near the entrances charge €5+ per hour, however one of the best is ‘Pompeii Parking‘ close to Porta Esedra, which costs €10 a day

Private Transfers

Based on experience (and a rather eye-watering €80+ taxi fare back in 2019 for a criminally short distance), I strongly recommend booking any private transfers in advance rather than taking a taxi on the spot. Many companies offer fixed-rate services:

• From Naples: €80-100 per vehicle
• From Sorrento: €90-110 per vehicle
• From Naples Airport: €100-120 per vehicle

Best Time to Visit Pompeii

Having visited Pompeii across different seasons over the years, I’ve experienced firsthand how timing can significantly impact your visit. Here is a summary of what I’ve found.

Seasonal Guide

Summer (June to August)

The height of summer brings intense heat and peak crowds to Pompeii. During my July visit a few years ago, the midday sun was relentless – and that was before the recent heatwaves! If you must visit in summer:

• Arrive early (before 9:00) or late afternoon (after 15:00) to avoid peak heat
• Bring a water bottle – you can refill it at the ancient fountains throughout the site
• Pack sun protection – there’s limited shade among the ruins
• Book tickets in advance – the new 20,000 daily visitor cap means summer entry isn’t guaranteed

Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to October)

These shoulder seasons offer the most pleasant visiting conditions. On my recent October visit, the temperature sat comfortably around 20°C – perfect for exploring. You’ll find:

• Comfortable temperatures for walking (15-24°C)
• Smaller crowds than summer months (don’t expect it to be quiet, though)
• Better photography conditions with softer light
• Most facilities and services operating at full capacity

Winter (November to February)

Winter brings a different atmosphere to Pompeii. While you’ll need to wrap up warm, you’ll benefit from:

• Significantly fewer visitors
• Lower accommodation costs
• Shorter opening hours (9:00-17:00), so plan accordingly
• You do run the risk of battling some rain, so keep this in mind

Best Time of Day to Visit

• 9:00-10:30: Get there for the opening to dodge tour groups that coverage at around 10am at the entrance. Fewer visitors and cooler temperatures – ideal for exploring
• 10:30-14:00: Peak crowds and highest temperatures
• 15:00-closing: Crowds thin out and heat begins to ease

How To Purchase Tickets & Access The Site

A standard entry ticket to Pompeii costs €18, giving you access to the main archaeological park.

For a more comprehensive experience, opt for the Plus ticket (€22) which includes the stunning Villa dei Misteri – its incredibly preserved frescoes make it well worth the extra €4.

Ticket Types

• Standard Entry: €18
• Pompeii Plus: €22 (includes Villa dei Misteri)
• 3-Day Combined Ticket: €35 (includes multiple sites around Vesuvius)
• EU Citizens (18-25): €2
• Under 18s: Free

Skip-the-Line Options

If you’re visiting during peak seasons or prefer a smoother entry, several operators offer skip-the-line tickets:

• Express Entry: from €23
• Plus Access: from €27.50
• Optional Audioguide: €7.50 extra

Booking tickets: Browse GetYourGuide’s ticketing options for Pompeii at this link.

Free Entry Days

Pompeii offers free entry on the first Sunday of each month. While this sounds appealing, I’d actually recommend avoiding these days unless you’re on a very tight budget – the site gets exceptionally crowded.

Choosing Your Entrance

Pompeii has three different entrances, each serving different areas of the modern town and offering varying levels of facilities. Your choice might depend on how you’re arriving, whether you’re joining a tour, or which part of the ruins you’d like to explore first.

Porta Marina | The main entrance, located right by the Circumvesuviana train station. This is where you’ll find the main ticket office, information point, and where most guided tours begin. It offers the most facilities, including a cafeteria, gift shop, and large bag storage for €5.

Piazza Anfiteatro | Sits at the opposite end of the site in modern Pompei town. It’s generally quieter than Porta Marina and particularly convenient if you’re staying in Pompei itself. While it only offers basic facilities, it does have bag storage available – though remember, bags larger than 30x30x15 cms aren’t permitted through any entrance.

Porta Reseina (also known as Piazza Esedra)| located on Via Villa dei Misteri and offers the closest access to the Villa dei Misteri. While it has limited facilities, it tends to be less crowded than Porta Marina and has parking nearby, making it a good choice if you’re arriving by car.

Tip: If you’re joining a guided tour, they typically meet at Porta Marina regardless of which entrance might be more convenient for you.

How To Explore Pompeii Once You Get There

Getting your bearings in Pompeii can feel overwhelming at first – I certainly felt that way during my early visits.

The archaeological site covers 66 hectares and is divided into nine districts, called Regio, each containing numerous buildings, streets and points of interest. Think of these Regio as neighbourhoods of the ancient city, numbered from I to IX.

Understanding Pompeii’s Layout

The ancient city is laid out in a grid system, with two main streets: Decumanus Maximus (running east-west) and Via Stabiana (running north-south). These major thoroughfares divide Pompeii into distinct regions, each with its own character.

Your site map will show numbered Regio (districts), with each building or point of interest marked by a number-letter combination – for example, “I.10.4” means Regio I, block 10, entrance 4.

Tip: While this numbering system might seem complicated, it’s incredibly helpful for navigation. I’ve found that focusing on one Regio at a time helps prevent that overwhelming feeling of trying to see everything at once.

Highlights In Each Of Pompeii’s Regiones

Before I go into more depth on each area, it’s worth noting that Regio III and IV are largely closed to the public as they’re still under excavation or study.

For the most up-to-date information about site openings and detailed maps of each Regio, visit the official Pompeii website (pompeiisites.org).

As I’ve mentioned already, the site map will be an essential resource as you explore – you can pick one up at any entrance.

Regio VII: The Civic Heart

Life in Roman Pompeii centred around the Forum, a grand public square flanked by temples and government buildings. Don’t miss the Temple of Apollo, one of Pompeii’s oldest religious buildings, or the remarkably preserved Stabian Baths.

The infamous Lupanar (brothel) draws crowds for its risqué frescoes (you can expect there to be a line), while the recently excavated thermopolium offers a fascinating glimpse into the Roman fast-food culture – complete with food remains preserved from 79 AD.

Regio VIII: The Administrative Centre

In this district, you’ll find the impressive Large and Small Theatres, where you can easily imagine Roman entertainment in action.

The haunting Temple of Isis stands as one of the best-preserved Egyptian-style temples in the Roman world, while the Basilica showcases the grandeur of Roman civic architecture.

Regio VI: Where the Wealthy Lived

This prestigious district showcases how Pompeii’s elite resided.

The House of the Faun dominates – imagine an entire city block converted into one luxury residence.

The recently reopened House of the Vettii nearby offers the best-preserved glimpse of Roman interior decoration I’ve seen, its frescoes still vibrant after two millennia.

Recently decorated before the eruption, it’s thought to have belonged to two former slaves who became rich through their commercial pursuits in the wine trade. Despite being almost 2,000 years old, there’s a distinct air of the bling factor.

Don’t miss the House of the Tragic Poet with its famous “Cave Canem” (beware of the dog) mosaic at the entrance – it’s one of Pompeii’s most iconic houses.

The House of the Golden Cupids absolutely enchanted me with its peaceful courtyard and beautiful frescoes – just a tad out of the way for most people to bother with, I found myself alone here, even when the rest of the site was pretty busy.

Just outside the city walls, you’ll find two of Pompeii’s most impressive suburban villas.

The Villa of the Mysteries is famous for its extraordinary frescoes depicting what appears to be a mysterious religious ritual. The Villa of Diomedes, one of Pompeii’s largest buildings, impresses with its extensive gardens and pools – a true testament to Roman luxury living.

Back within the walls, the House of the Dioscuri stands out even among Pompeii’s grand houses, featuring an unusual marble-clad reception room and a deep pool used for water games – a rare find in Pompeii.

Regio V: Recent Discoveries

This area houses some of Pompeii’s most exciting recent finds. The Gladiator Barracks offers insights into the life of these ancient warriors, while newly excavated houses showcase pristine frescoes that look as though they were painted yesterday. The House of Marcus Lucretius Fronto features some particularly well-preserved wall paintings.

Regio I: Daily Life and Loss

The Fullonica of Stephanus provides fascinating insights into the Roman clothing industry, while various shops and homes paint a picture of everyday life. The grand House of the Menander – named for a portrait of the Greek dramatist found inside – is one of the largest and most elegant homes in this district.

The House of the Lovers holds special significance as the only house in Pompeii where the upper floor remains completely intact, giving us a rare glimpse of how these multi-story Roman homes really looked.

The House of the Orchard holds within its walls some striking paintings of a city garden – the vibrant frescoes creating an illusion of endless greenery.

Meanwhile, the House of the Cryptoporticus offers one of Pompeii’s architectural marvels: an underground passageway with remarkable wall paintings inspired by the Iliad, providing one of the finest examples of Second Style Pompeian art from the Augustan period.

Set just away from the town’s largest structures down a quiet road, the Garden of the Fugitives offers what I found to be Pompeii’s most moving experience. Huddled in the corner of a sheltered vineyard is a row of victims, including – most tragically – a toddler, left in place in the spot where they took their last breaths. I found this site particularly upsetting.

Regio II: Sports and Entertainment

This district houses two of Pompeii’s largest structures – the Amphitheatre (the oldest known in the Roman world, predating Rome’s Colosseum by over a century) and the massive Large Palaestra where citizens exercised. You’ll also find the impressive House of Venus in the Shell here, along with the extensive grounds of the Praedia of Julia Felix.

Regio IX: Urban Living

This bustling district showcases daily life through various well-preserved homes and businesses. The House of the Chaste Lovers offers beautiful examples of domestic architecture, while the Central Baths – though unfinished when Vesuvius erupted – provide fascinating insights into Roman construction techniques.

Tips for Navigating Pompeii

Understanding how to read your map and navigate between sites will make a huge difference to your visit. Here are a few things I’ve learned from my trips to Pompeii:

• Use the Regio System to Stay Orientated | Pompeii’s grid system isn’t just for archaeologists! While the site is vast and maze-like, the Regio numbers can help you pinpoint exactly where you are. Look for the blue signs at street corners displaying these numbers, and use them alongside your map to keep track of which district you’re in. If you’re searching for a specific house or landmark, checking these signs will save you from wandering in circles.
• Planning Your Route | Most visitors start at Porta Marina and head straight to the Forum, making this area crowded by mid-morning. Instead, consider beginning at a quieter, further spot – such as the Amphitheatre – and working your way back.
• Changes in Elevation | Pompeii isn’t flat—some streets rise and fall quite steeply. Via dell’Abbondanza, one of the main streets has a noticeable incline. Keep this in mind, especially on hot days, as it can make walking more tiring than expected.
• Using Landmarks to Navigate | While the Forum and Amphitheatre are key landmarks, they aren’t always visible from everywhere due to Pompeii’s maze-like streets and varying elevations. If you feel lost, check your map against the blue street signs or use Google Maps, which includes many of Pompeii’s major locations.
• Sunlight & Heat Considerations | Different areas of Pompeii receive varying levels of sun exposure throughout the day. The Forum, main streets, and open courtyards offer little shade during midday, while some houses and covered areas provide relief. Plan to explore exposed areas early or late in the day, and take advantage of fountains to refill your water bottle.

Making the Most of Your Visit to Pompeii

Guided tour or self-guided?

If it’s your first visit, a guided tour is worth it. Pompeii without context is just old walls and cobblestones – even well-prepared visitors find that a guide changes what they see and how they read the site.

My three-hour tour with Walks of Italy was one of the best decisions I made on my last visit. If you prefer to go independently, an audio guide (available at Porta Marina, €8) is the next best option.

Exploring Pompeii Independently Without a Guide

If you prefer to explore independently (or want to after your tour):

• Official audio guides are available at Porta Marina and Porta Anfiteatro (€8, or €6.50 per person for groups)
• Download the official Pompeii map before your visit
• Consider creating your own route on Google Maps, marking the sites you most want to see

Tip: If you do take a tour, chat with your guide towards the end about which areas they’d recommend exploring afterwards. Mine pointed me towards several beautiful, quiet spots that I had completely to myself.

Practical Visitor Tips For Pompeii

Facilities

• Toilets: Located at all main entrances (Porta Marina, Piazza Anfiteatro, Piazza Esedra) and several points within the site including the Antiquarium and Villa dei Misteri
• Luggage Storage: Free service at Porta Marina and Piazza Anfiteatro (maximum bag size permitted into Pompeii is 30x30x15 cm). There are also paid luggage storage facilities (around €5 per bag) near the Pompei Scavi Villa dei Misteri train station run by Radical Storage and Bounce.
• Baby Facilities: Three baby-changing points across the site – you need to collect keys at the entrance
• First Aid: Medical service available near the Chora café on Vicolo degli Augustali

Refreshments

• Main restaurant: “Pizza, Pasta & More” self-service at Casina dell’Aquila
• Kiosks offering local products, wines, and seasonal specialities
• Water fountains throughout the site – bring a refillable bottle

Accessibility

The “Pompeii for All” route offers a 3.5km accessible pathway from Piazza Anfiteatro to the Sanctuary of Venus. While some areas have steep inclines and uneven surfaces, the route makes many major sites accessible to visitors with mobility needs and families with pushchairs.

Some Other Tips

• Wear comfortable, sturdy shoes – the ancient streets are uneven
• Bring sun protection – many areas offer little shade
• Consider visiting in spring or autumn for comfortable temperatures
• Avoid bringing large bags – they’re not permitted and storage is limited
• Download or screenshot maps/info in advance – mobile signal can be patchy

Where to Stay When Visiting Pompeii

The Town of Modern Pompei

After staying in various locations around the Bay of Naples over the years, I developed a bit of a soft spot for modern Pompei.

On my most recent visit, I chose to base myself in the town rather than Naples or Sorrento, staying at a lovely guesthouse called Residenza Madonna. It turned out to be an excellent decision.

While Pompei might not be the obvious choice for most visitors, I found it offered a wonderfully authentic experience. Once the day-trippers leave, the town takes on a completely different character.

In the evenings, locals gather for aperitivo around Piazza Bartolo Longo, chatting and socialising in front of the striking Basilica. The restaurant scene surprised me too – from traditional pizzerias to modern bistros, I found that there was plenty of choice for a stay of a few days, and prices are notably quite reasonable if you stay away from those establishments clearly geared towards tourists.

I discovered several excellent dining spots during my stay.

Mercato Pompeiano Restaurant serves up gorgeous modern interpretations of pizza, while Ristorante Spinelli Bistrot offers a slightly more upmarket dining experience. For breakfast, I became a temporary regular at Amato Caffè, starting each morning with excellent coffee and pastries.

Some places to stay in Modern Pompei:

• Residenza Madonna – a modern, spotless and extremely comfortable guesthouse where I stayed in the heart of modern Pompei.
• Dream House Pompei – a snazzy guesthouse with a garden and rooftop jacuzzi.
• Hotel Forum – well-located family-run hotel with a beautiful garden and great reviews.
• Habita79 Pompeii – MGallery – Pompei’s luxury option. A slick hotel in a prime location, set just off modern Pompei’s main square, and very close to the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance to the ruins.

Naples As A Base For Visiting Pompeii

Naples offers a completely different experience. As the region’s vibrant capital, it provides easy access not just to Pompeii but also to the remarkable Archaeological Museum, where you’ll find most of Pompeii’s original artefacts.

The city has an unbeatable food scene and endless accommodation options, though some areas can feel overwhelming for first-time visitors. The journey to Pompeii takes about 35 minutes by train.

I’ve written extensively about Naples, including a Naples Neighbourhood & Accommodation Guide, which you should read if you are planning to stay in Naples.

Sorrento As A Base for Pompeii

Sorrento, with its dramatic coastal setting, is probably the most tourist-friendly option. It’s well-positioned for combining Pompeii with trips to the Amalfi Coast, and the regular 30-minute train service makes day trips to the ruins straightforward.

However, you’ll pay a premium for accommodation here, and in high season the town can feel overwhelmingly touristy.

My Thoughts On Where You Should Stay

If you’re primarily interested in exploring the archaeological sites, and will spend more than one day of your trip at them, then I’d highly recommend considering Pompei as your base. Being able to walk to the ruins first thing in the morning, while everyone else is still on their way from Naples or Sorrento, is a real advantage.

I actually found it perfect for visiting Herculaneum too – the transport connections are excellent, and returning to Pompei’s quieter atmosphere each evening was a lovely way to decompress after days of intensive sightseeing.

That being said, if you’d prefer to soak up the atmosphere of nearby locations like Naples or Sorrento in the evening and don’t mind planning and allocating some time to the logistics of getting to Pompeii, then both of these are also great bases for exploring Pompeii from.

Before or After: The Naples Archaeological Museum

It’s worth knowing that Pompeii is pretty much an empty shell. Its streets, temples and houses remain, but nearly everything that once filled them is now in Naples. 

If you want to see the mosaics, frescoes, plaster casts and household objects – including the Alexander Mosaic from the House of the Faun and the haunting Secret Cabinet of explicit Roman art – the National Archaeological Museum (MANN) is essential.

There’s no right order. Visiting the museum first helps you visualise Pompeii as it once was. Visiting it afterwards means the artefacts land with more weight because you’ve walked the rooms they came from. Either way, plan for at least two to three hours there.

Should You Visit Pompeii or the Museum First?

There’s no right or wrong approach. Visiting the museum first helps you visualize Pompeii as it once was, making the ruins more immersive. On the other hand, seeing Pompeii first means you’ll appreciate the artefacts even more when you view them in a museum setting. Either way, plan for at least 2–3 hours at MANN.

Tip: Naples deserves more than just a transit stop. My things to do in Naples guide covers the city properly if you’re spending time there.

For the History Nerds: Resources Worth Your Time Before You Go

Before my most recent visit, I spent hours reading up on the latest discoveries and watching documentaries about Pompeii. This preparation made such a difference to my experience – I knew exactly what I wanted to see and could better appreciate the significance of each discovery.

Here’s what I found most useful:

Free Pompeii Guides:

• Get the official site map – it’s essential for navigation, especially if you’re exploring independently. You should be given one if you’re on a tour, or if not, can pick one up at the kiosks/desks at the entrance.
• Download the Pompeii Archaeological Park map before you arrive – however it covers a massive space, so may be a bit fiddly as you make your way around the site.
• If you’re budget-conscious, you could also download the free version of this app (Google Play Store | budget-conscious).
• Google Maps – most major sites are locations on Google Maps; research those you want to see in advance and create your own route between them on Maps.

TV Programmes About Pompeii

• Pompeii: The New Dig – a 3-part production following the year-long excavation of an entire city block, Insula 10 (you may need a VPN to watch if you’re outside the UK).
• Pompeii: The Mystery of the People Frozen in Time – modern-day forensics applied to the last moments before the tragedy (same as above re VPN).
• What Was Everyday Life Like In Pompeii? Pompeii With Mary Beard – one-hour programme available on YouTube with Cambridge Professor and expert, Mary Beard.

Books About Pompeii

• Pompeii: The Life Of A Roman Town (Mary Beard) – probably one of the best books written about Pompeii; lots of history, yet very engaging.
• The Complete Pompeii (Joanne Berry) – a very comprehensive picture of Pompeii, with hundreds of images to accompany the text.
• Pompeii: A Novel (Robert Harris) – a gripping read for those who wish to have the history of Pompeii brought to life through fiction

Online Resources:

The official Pompeii website (pompeiisites.org) is your best source for:

• Current excavation updates
• Which areas are open or closed for restoration
• Special exhibitions or evening openings
• Changes to entry requirements or visitor regulations

A note on guided tours: On my last visit I combined a three-hour guided tour with Walks of Italy with several hours of independent exploration afterwards. For a first-time visitor, this is the approach I’d recommend – the guide’s expertise provides the context, and you then have the knowledge to explore freely on your own. I’ll be writing a dedicated post on whether a guided tour is worth it, but the short answer is: at Pompeii specifically, yes.

Planning the Rest of Your Campania Trip

• Pompeii or Herculaneum? – if you’re deciding whether to add Herculaneum to the itinerary, this covers the honest comparison with a clear verdict
• 10 Day Amalfi Coast Itinerary – the fuller regional trip, with Pompeii built in as one day from the coast
• Things to Do in Naples – most visitors come to Pompeii from Naples; this covers what else the city has to offer, including the Archaeological Museum