Venice in Winter: What to See, Do, Eat & Where to Stay

Venice in winter has a smell. It’s not a bad smell, mind you – just a unique one. 

It’s seaweed and saltwater and old stone, sometimes sulphur on the air, and it hits you softly as you cross a quiet bridge in Dorsoduro or step out of a crumbling palazzo into the mist. 

Gone are the selfie-stick parades and cruise ship queues-what you’re left with is a quieter, stranger, and in many ways more beautiful city.

But make no mistake: planning a winter visit to Venice still requires strategy. With shorter days, sudden closures, and unpredictable acqua alta, it’s all too easy to waste time or leave feeling like you didn’t quite crack the magic.

When I visited the Museo Fortuny late one February afternoon, I had the place almost entirely to myself. I was so moved by the fabulousness of it-this mad, layered, creative cave of a home-that I found myself nearly skipping from room to room. And yet, most travellers don’t even make it there.

This post is here to change that. Across multiple visits to Venice at various times of the  year (including winter, of course), I’ve curated not just what to see-but when and how to see it to maximise your time and enjoyment. 

I’m sharing my favourite winter-friendly experiences and under-the-radar gems, plus handpicked places to eat (that feel particularly cosy or special in the colder months), where to stay (including the property I chose myself), and exactly how to navigate the city’s quirks in the off-season.

You may be considering tacking Venice on at the end of a skii trip to the nearby Dolomites, or considering a standalone trip. And I’m here to say to you – do it!

Whether it’s your first time or a return trip, this guide will help you navigate Venice in winter like someone who’s already walked the foggy streets, figured out the ferry lines, and knows exactly what’s worth your euros-and what’s not.

Why visit Venice in winter? (Pros & cons)

Having been to Venice in the height of summer as well as in the depths of winter, I can say that the contrast is stark. 

Summer can feel like you’re being carried along on a tide of tourists, funnelled through the same narrow streets, jostling for the same photos, and paying eye-watering hotel prices for the privilege. 

Winter is the opposite. 

There’s a mist that hangs low over the canals, sometimes so thick it softens the outlines of the palazzi, and the sound of your own footsteps echoes off the cobbles. 

Instead of being swallowed up by crowds, I noticed locals on their way to work, students heading to lectures, and residents pulling their shopping trolleys behind them. Daily life suddenly takes centre stage, and that’s a privilege to witness.

For me, winter makes Venice feel more intimate, more authentic, and more beautiful. 

It isn’t without its challenges. Damp air clings to you, nights can hover around freezing, and if acqua alta does arrive, you’ll need patience for raised walkways and slower movement through the city. 

But on the other side of that, you’re rewarded with the freedom to wander at your own pace, to step into world-class galleries without queues, and to finally stay in a hotel with history or character without having to remortgage.

I’ve walked across St. Mark’s Square in January without having to dodge selfie sticks. I’ve stood almost alone in the Galleria dell’Accademia, lingering in front of some of Italy’s greatest artworks. 

I’ve stayed in a boutique Venetian hotel for nearly half the price of what it costs in July. None of these moments would be possible in the peak of summer. 

And yet the magic of Venice is still there – in fact, the fog, the festive lights, and the quieter streets make it even stronger.

Pros of visiting Venice in winter

• Fewer crowds at major sights, easier to enjoy icons like St. Mark’s Basilica or the Doge’s Palace
• More intimate atmosphere, with local daily life more visible
• Lower hotel prices, making unique or boutique stays more accessible
• Unique winter mood: foggy canals, misty mornings, soft golden light
• Seasonal highlights: Venice Carnival in February, Christmas markets, festive lights
  

Cons of visiting Venice in winter

• Damp, chilly weather; temperatures around 0-7°C (32-45°F)
• Short daylight hours, especially in December and January
• Risk of acqua alta, which can slow movement around the city
• Some tours or smaller restaurants may close off-season

What is the weather like in Venice in winter?

Winter in Venice will often conjure images of mist swirling across the canals, cloaking the palaces in a soft haze. And in truth, that image isn’t far from reality. 

The city is damp and cold at this time of year, but it’s also atmospheric, with the fog giving everything a dreamlike, almost mythical quality.

From December through February, average daytime highs sit between 7-9°C (45-48°F), while nights dip close to freezing, around 0-1°C (32-34°F). 

January is usually the coldest month, when lows can hit -0.1°C (31.8°F). Rainfall is fairly steady but not excessive, with 47-51mm (1.8-2in) spread across 5-6 days per month. 

Sunshine is in short supply: December averages just 2.5 hours of sunshine a day, and daylight hours drop to under nine.

Snow in Venice is rare, but it does happen – and when it does, it transforms the city into a real winter wonderland. More common, though, is acqua alta, the high tide flooding that can affect St. Mark’s Square and other low-lying parts of the city. 

Raised wooden walkways are set out when this happens, and many shops sell inexpensive knee-high plastic boot covers. It slows your pace a little, but Venetians take it in stride, and visitors quickly adapt too.

Personally, I found the weather milder than I expected. 

Coming from Ireland, where damp and cold are a way of life, Venice in winter didn’t feel extreme. What did surprise me, however, was the contrast between outside and inside. 

Outdoors, it was crisp and damp, with temperatures hovering just above freezing, but step into a museum or café and you were met with what felt like furnace heat. Italians love to crank up their heating in winter, and for me, it was often too much. 

I started sweating in thick jumpers and a quilted coat, so I quickly learned to rely on layers I could peel off.

One of the best discoveries was the lockers in Venice’s museums and galleries, which I made great use of after a few overheated visits. 

I’d arrive in my down coat and heavy knit, stash them in the free lockers, and wander around comfortably in a thin top – though sometimes earning puzzled looks from staff wrapped up in scarves and jackets. 

How busy is Venice in winter and are prices lower?

One of the greatest gifts of visiting Venice in winter is the change of pace. 

The city feels more like a place lived in than a place visited. I noticed schoolchildren hurrying home in the afternoon, university students carrying books, and locals running errands – details that are almost impossible to spot in the crush of summer crowds.

That doesn’t mean the city is empty. 

St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge were still lively when I walked through, but once I wandered into the quieter sestieri – Dorsoduro, Santa Croce, Cannaregio, or Castello – the streets thinned out almost immediately. 

I found myself walking along hazy canals with just the sound of my own footsteps echoing on the cobbles. 

Inside the major galleries, the difference was just as striking. When I visited the Galleria dell’Accademia on a winter afternoon, I was able to buy a ticket at the door and stroll through rooms that felt almost private. In summer, that same gallery can be heaving.

That said, there are still busy corners and practical things worth knowing. 

The likes of St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace, or even the Libreria Acqua Alta bookshop are still packed with people – often the same queues of Instagrammers, even on cold, grey days. It’s worth booking tickets for the big hitters in advance, even in winter.

Restaurants tell a similar story. 

While Venice is quieter overall, the good tables are still in demand. Locals are out dining and so are savvy travellers who know where to eat well. 

On my last visit, I didn’t make many reservations because I was travelling alone, and I was lucky to slip into places at the last minute. But that only worked because I was just one person. 

If you’re travelling as a pair or group, you should absolutely reserve dinner spots. 

I also noticed that some restaurants quietly closed earlier than their Google Maps listings suggested. One place I had my eye on, Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti, had already shut its doors when I arrived with an hour left on its listed lunch service. 

If there’s somewhere you don’t want to miss, it’s worth ringing ahead to double-check opening times.

The quieter season does, however, bring a welcome drop in prices. 

Flights into Venice in winter tend to be more reasonable, and accommodation is markedly more affordable. Hotels that command eye-watering rates in June and July become much more attainable in December or January.

For example, when I stayed at Novecento Boutique Hotel, I paid €921 for four nights in winter. The same room in summer jumped to €1560 – nearly double the price. 

Venice is a special destination, and I think it deserves a stay somewhere with atmosphere, history, or a touch of luxury. Winter makes that possible without blowing your budget.

That said, it’s worth noting that there are two key exceptions. 

Around Christmas and New Year’s, and again during Carnival in February, the city fills up, hotel rates climb sharply, and the atmosphere flips back towards peak-season busyness. If your trip coincides with either of those times, book accommodation and tickets well in advance and be prepared for higher prices.

✨Looking for ideas beyond the usual winter hotspots?

In my guide to the best European cities for a winter break, I share why travelling off-season makes even the most famous places feel unexpected – and far more rewarding.

👉 See the full list → Best European Cities to Visit in Winter You Haven’t Considered

Best things to do in Venice in winter

Winter in Venice isn’t about racing through a checklist. 

The shorter days, the quieter streets, and the cooler air give everything a slower rhythm. I found it the perfect time to balance seeing the icons with exploring lesser-known corners, and to enjoy the food and atmosphere without the summer overwhelm.

Visit St. Mark’s Basilica

St. Mark’s Square is always one of the busiest parts of Venice, even in winter, but the queues are far shorter than in summer. Inside, the golden mosaics glow against the darker skies outside, and the sense of space feels calmer. 

If it’s your first visit, I’d still recommend booking tickets in advance – winter doesn’t mean it’s empty.

Explore the Doge’s Palace

The Doge’s Palace is another essential stop. Its grand halls, rich with dark wood and heavy canvases, seem almost designed for the winter months. Crowds are lighter, though the Palace is never truly quiet, so advance tickets still make sense.

Enjoy a gondola ride

In winter, gondoliers often sit idle, waiting for fares, which means you can take your time and choose one whose company you’ll enjoy. Prices are set, so don’t expect discounts, but you’ll have more freedom to talk with a gondolier before committing. 

The ride itself is different in winter – the Grand Canal is less crowded, the smaller canals are hushed, and the air has a chill that makes the whole experience feel sharper and more intimate. 

Close to the water, it does get cold, so gloves and layers are essential.

Wander neighbourhoods like Dorsoduro, Santa Croce, Cannaregio, and Castello

On crisp, clear days, wandering through Venice’s quieter sestieri feels like stepping into a more intimate version of the city – one where the vignettes of daily life are visible in a way they rarely are in the summer.

In Dorsoduro, the presence of students and artists gives the streets a lively but unhurried character. I stopped at Caffè Rosso in Campo Santa Margherita, where locals gathered outside despite the chill, wrapped in coats and scarves, chatting as children darted between tables. 

Afterwards, I wandered across to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco before settling into Adriatico Mar, a seafaring-themed bacaro whose warmth and care made the transition from daylight to night feel quietly special.

By contrast, Santa Croce has a slightly grittier, more lived-in feel. It’s the kind of place where you pass market stalls and hardware shops alongside bars spilling over with locals. I found Bar al Merca buzzing with conversation, and Bacarretto da Lele the perfect stop for a quick sandwich and spritz, eaten at the standing barrel tables with commuters stopping by after work.

Cannaregio is one of the most atmospheric parts of Venice, full of narrow canals and low bridges that feel almost cinematic in the winter mist. It’s here that you’ll find the historic Jewish Ghetto, whose sombre history contrasts with the warmth of the surrounding cafés and bacari. I love wandering Cannaregio in the late afternoon, when the fog thickens and the sound of footsteps echoes across the paving stones.

Stretching east from the centre, Castello feels more residential, less polished, but all the more rewarding for it. This is where you catch glimpses of washing strung across alleys, or stumble upon quiet gardens and neighbourhood churches. 

It’s Venice at its most everyday, and precisely because of that, it feels more authentic.

Warm up in Venice’s smaller museums and palazzi

Winter is the best time to explore Venice’s museums at your own pace. 

I found Museo Fortuny quirky and full of surprises, with its mix of textiles, art, and eccentric interiors. Palazzo Grimani has a faded Renaissance elegance, and the Galleria dell’Accademia felt almost serene in the late afternoon with hardly a crowd. 

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco is a standout in winter, its golden ceilings and dark wooden panelling glowing under the low light.

I also enjoyed visits to Ca’ Pesaro, home to modern art in a grand baroque palazzo, and Ca’ Rezzonico, which brings the 18th century vividly to life through its paintings, furnishings, and chandeliers. 

Another favourite was the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti at Ca’ d’Oro, one of Venice’s most beautiful Gothic palaces.

🎨 Planning your cultural stops? Start here → Best Museums & Galleries in Venice: My Curated Guide 

Discover atmospheric churches

One of my most memorable winter discoveries was the flooded crypt at Chiesa di San Zaccaria. The white and peach façade draws you in, and inside, darkened paintings cover every surface-once glowing, now quietly majestic. 

For €3.50, you can enter the chapels and descend a narrow staircase into the flooded crypt. I expected eerie, but instead found calm and serenity: a lit Madonna reflected gently in the still water. The whole place was almost empty-far from the tourist crowds. A very peaceful moment in a cold day.

Beside that, tucked away in quieter Cannaregio and equally fitting winter wandering, is the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (I Gesuiti). Its two-tiered, white-marble façade feels almost surreal against the fog. 

Inside, Titian’s Martyrdom of Saint Lawrence commands attention with haunting chiaroscuro. There’s also a shimmering green-and-white marble floor, layers of Baroque decoration, and a solemn atmosphere that feels made for slow winter afternoons.

Take a vaporetto or traghetto ride

The vaporetto in winter is less glamorous than you might imagine: windows steamed up, damp coats, the press of commuters. But it’s part of the daily life in the city, and seeing Venice this way adds authenticity. 

I especially enjoyed the traghetti that cross the Grand Canal. In winter there were no queues at all, just a handful of locals standing alongside me as we glided across, and it was one of the simplest pleasures of the season.

Experience music at La Fenice

On one chilly afternoon I ducked into La Fenice for the self-guided audio tour, and it turned out to be one of the most suitable cold-weather activities of my trip! 

Wandering through the gilded auditorium, with its chandeliers glittering and private boxes stacked high, was a real wow moment. The audio guide itself is fairly straightforward, but the setting more than makes up for it – it’s hard not to pause and imagine the theatre in its prime, filled with an audience in full Venetian finery. 

Given its history of being destroyed by fire twice and rebuilt, the name La Fenice (“The Phoenix”) feels very fitting.

Winter is also the perfect season to experience La Fenice at its best: during a live performance. 

The theatre stages opera and concerts throughout the colder months, and for something more intimate you’ll also find candlelit Vivaldi concerts in venues like the Chiesa della Pietà (known as Vivaldi’s church). 

Sitting in the warmth of a historic hall while music soars against the winter night has got to be one of the most atmospheric experiences you can have in Venice.

Experience Venice Carnival

If your visit coincides with Carnival, it’s one of the great spectacles of winter. 

Costumes, masks, and music spill into the streets, and the whole city seems to come alive in a way that contrasts beautifully with its usual off-season quiet. Even if you don’t attend a ball, simply being in the city during Carnival will likely be unforgettable.

Eat and drink your way through Venice

Personally, I find that Venetian food leans into winter quite well. 

It’s not “heavy” in the way Tuscan or mountain cuisines are, but compared to the light, sunny plates of the south, Venice leans into comfort. Its cuisine reflects its place on the northeastern coast, its lagoon produce, and its centuries as a seafaring republic. 

You notice plenty of dishes built on polenta, rice, or slow-cooked onions, and the flavours are often rich, spiced, or a little earthy – the kind of food that feels more at home on a cold day. 

Think of things like sarde in saor (sweet-sour sardines with onions, raisins, and pine nuts), bigoli in salsa (thick pasta with an anchovy and onion sauce), or risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto).

On evening, I ended up at La Bitta, a rare meat-focused restaurant in a city better known for seafood. I was tempted by roast goose with apples and plums, but in the end, the braised lamb in prosecco sauce was exactly the kind of dish I needed. 

Rich, warming, and matched by interiors that felt inviting and snug, it was the perfect winter dinner.

Coffee culture has deep roots here too. 

Venice was home to Europe’s very first coffeehouse, and Caffè Florian, founded in 1720, is still in operation today. I find it ostentatiously expensive (thanks, Instagram), and while it has become a tourist-photo-backdrop more than anything else today, it’s still very much a piece of living history.

In contrast, one of the simple pleasures of winter is finding a quieter café, huddling over a quick espresso at the bar, and watching the steam rise as locals come and go. Outdoors, you’ll notice Venetians still wrapped in coats, standing at small tables or sitting under heaters, keeping the tradition of café culture alive even in the chill.

And if you’d like to go deeper, a food tour is one of the best ways to spend a winter afternoon – hopping between hidden bacari, trying cicchetti with a glass of wine or spritz, and hearing the stories that bring Venetian food culture to life.

Skip the day trips to Murano and Burano

I’d usually recommend Murano and Burano, but in winter the ferry ride can be damp and uncomfortable, and the colourful houses of Burano lose some of their impact under grey skies. If it’s your first time in Venice you can still go, but personally, I’d save them for another season.

The one exception might be Murano if you’re particularly interested in glassblowing. Many of the workshops and demonstrations are indoors, so you can still enjoy watching the craft at work without the weather dampening the experience. But if you’re mostly going to stroll canals and shop displays, I’d wait for sunnier days.

Seasonal events and festivals in Venice

Winter may be the quieter season in Venice, but it’s also when some of the city’s most atmospheric celebrations take place. 

From centuries-old traditions to sparkling Christmas lights, these events add an extra layer of magic to the season.

Venice Carnival (Carnevale di Venezia – February)

The most famous winter event in Venice is, of course, the Carnival. 

For a few weeks in February, the whole city feels like a stage set, filled with elaborate masks, period costumes, and pageantry. Even if you don’t attend a masked ball, simply wandering through Piazza San Marco and the surrounding streets during Carnival is unforgettable.

Christmas Village at Campo Santo Stefano

Campo Santo Stefano is the heart of Venice’s festive scene in December, transforming into a proper Christmas Village. 

The wooden chalets are filled with Venetian and Italian crafts – carnival masks, Murano glass, Burano lace – alongside Christmas treats like panettone, pandoro, and Venice’s own marzapane (a sweet with roots in San Marco). 

Stopping for a hot chocolate or mulled wine here is part of the ritual, and it’s probably the most “classic” Christmas market experience you’ll find in Venice. It runs through December and into early January, and the surrounding streets are beautifully lit at this time of year too.

New Year’s Eve in St. Mark’s Basin

Venice rings in the new year with fireworks over the basin at San Marco, and the waterfront fills with people wrapped in coats and scarves, waiting for the show. 

I haven’t been there for New Year’s itself, but I was in Venice during the Festa del Redentore in July, when the basin was packed with boats and fireworks lit the sky. The atmosphere then was electric, and I can only imagine it feels just as lively on New Year’s Eve.

I’ve seen plenty of videos and photos online of the celebrations, and one thing I’ll say is that Italians do fireworks exceptionally well – they pull them out for everything, and they know how to put on a proper display. 

If I were there for New Year’s, I’d probably step away from the main stretch at San Marco and find a more creative vantage point for photos. Standing on the Ponte dell’Accademia would give you that iconic view of Santa Maria della Salute with the fireworks bursting behind it, or even the Rialto Bridge for a perspective along the Grand Canal. 

It’s worth thinking about the shot or view you want, rather than just joining the crush in front of the basin.

Ice Rink at Campo San Polo

Campo San Polo is the largest square in Venice, and in winter it takes on a playful twist with an outdoor ice rink. Families and groups of friends gather here to skate under the open sky, surrounded by the façades of Venetian palazzi. 

Even if you don’t skate yourself, it’s a fun place to soak up the festive atmosphere, grab a snack from one of the small market stalls, and just enjoy seeing Venetians out in the cold making the most of winter. 

The rink usually runs from December into February, but as with most events in Venice, dates can shift a little each year, so it’s worth checking closer to your trip.

Regata delle Befane (6 January)

On Epiphany, the canals host one of Venice’s quirkiest traditions: the Regata delle Befane, where men dressed as the Befana (a kindly witch from Italian folklore) row down the Grand Canal. It’s light-hearted and fun, especially if you’re travelling with kids.

Festa della Madonna della Salute (21 November)

Not technically ‘winter’, but as it falls a little over a week ahead of the official start of the winter season, I’ve included it here. 

One of Venice’s most heartfelt traditions takes place each November, when Venetians cross a temporary bridge of boats over the Grand Canal to the Basilica della Salute. The festival commemorates the end of the plague in the 17th century, and remains an important moment of reflection and community.

Murano “Natale di Vetro” (Christmas of Glass)

On the island of Murano, winter is celebrated with glass-themed art installations, Christmas trees, and festive decorations. It’s a lovely way to experience the artistry the island is known for, with a seasonal twist. 

Where to eat and drink in Venice in winter

Venice is full of places that feel especially welcoming once the temperatures dip and the damp sets in. 

In winter, I found myself seeking out restaurants and bacari not just for the food but for the warmth and atmosphere they offered. 

Some of my favourites were cosy, wood-panelled spots where you could tuck into cicchetti shoulder-to-shoulder with locals, while others were restaurants with hearty seasonal menus that seemed made for cold evenings. 

Venice also has its own coffee tradition, and I loved how the chill in the air made that quick stand-up espresso at the bar even more satisfying. 

🍴 Serious about Venetian food? → My full guide to Where & What to Eat in Venice goes far beyond the tourist menus and shows you where to find the city’s true flavours.

Hearty winter dishes

One of my favourite winter meals in Venice was at La Bitta in Dorsoduro. It’s a rare meat-focused restaurant in a city dominated by seafood, and the menu felt perfectly tuned to the season. 

I was tempted by tagliatelle with veal and roasted goose with apples and plums, but in the end I opted for a beautiful braised lamb in prosecco sauce. It was exactly the kind of dish that makes you linger at the table while the cold swirls outside.

Tucked away on a quiet street, Osteria Ai Assassini also felt like a real foodie discovery – warm brick walls, shelves lined with bottles, and soft jazz setting just the right mood for a winter evening. 

The cooking was elegant yet unfussy, and it drew more discerning locals than tourists, which made it one of my most enjoyable solo dinners in Venice.

Cosy bacari for cicchetti

Venice’s bacari (wine bars) are made for winter evenings, when the cold makes the warmth inside feel all the more inviting. 

At Cantina del Vino già Schiavi in Dorsoduro, the walls are lined with bottles and the counter stacked high with cicchetti like their famous tuna with cocoa powder. 

I had my spritz inside, where the swell of conversation, the heat from all the bodies, and the buzz of clinking glasses made the atmosphere wonderfully snug. It felt especially cosy to look out at the cold canal from the warmth indoors.

Over in San Polo, Cantina do Mori-dating back to 1462-is all low beams, copper pots, and wood-panelled walls. It’s dark and atmospheric, the kind of place where you want to linger even if it’s standing-room only. 

I had shrimp on courgette and a crisp croquette here, washed down with wine, and it felt like stepping into another century.

For something different, Osteria Giorgione da Masa in Cannaregio combines Venetian rustic charm with Japanese fusion dishes. Its vaulted wooden ceilings, tiled floors, and tavern-like atmosphere make it a surprising but deeply cosy lunch stop. 

When I visited it was full of locals dropping in for lunch and a glass of wine, chatting easily across tables – a reminder that these places are still very much part of everyday Venetian life.

If you’d like to dive deeper, I’ve put together a full guide to the best cicchetti in Venice.

A favourite winter retreat

After exploring the gilded halls of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, I slipped into Adriatico Mar nearby. Its seafaring-themed interiors, dim lighting, and thoughtful wine list made it one of my favourite winter hideaways in the city. I lingered there as the day shifted from light to dark, feeling entirely at home.

Drinks worth seeking out

Despite the cold, Venetians don’t give up their spritzes. A Select spritz – the true Venetian version – is just as refreshing in December as it is in July. 

And if you’re chilled through, you’ll find rich, thick Italian hot chocolate in cafés across the city, the kind you can almost stand a spoon in. The elegant Caffè Florian is the obvious, overprice choice (expect to pay €14 for a small cup, €17 for the honour of adding whipped cream). 

Alternatively, I’ll be forever grateful for the beautiful hot chocolate that I had at VizioVirtu Cioccolateria, an artisanal chocolatier located not too far from the Rialto Bridge. While still a small portion, the reason for this lies in the high quality of the chocolate. With a price tag of €4 for an exceptionally rich cup of chocolatey goodness, it offers far better value than Florian. 

You’ll also be able to order a more ‘basic’ (but still thick, and very chocolatey) hot chocolate at most cafes. 

Food tours

If you’d like to sample a range of cicchetti and local wines with insider guidance, a food tour is an excellent choice. It’s a great way to learn about Venetian food traditions while hopping between bacari.

Insider Tip

Even in winter, Venice’s better restaurants are busy with locals and in-the-know travellers. Make dinner reservations in advance, and don’t rely too heavily on Google Maps for opening times – I’ve found some kitchens close earlier than listed. A quick phone call saves disappointment.

What to wear in Venice in winter

Packing for Venice in winter is all about layers. 

The city rarely sees heavy snow, but temperatures hover between 0-7°C (32-45°F), and damp air from the canals can make it feel colder. At the same time, I found museums and restaurants are often heated to an almost stifling degree, so you’ll want to be able to peel layers off easily.

When I last visited, I brought more shoes than usual because it was part of a longer trip through Italy, but three pairs really proved useful:

• Chunky rubber-soled boots (knee-high in my case), perfect for wet weather and giving a little lift off damp pavements.
• Comfy ankle boots (mine were smart, pointed-toe, black leather) – these were the pair I ended up living in. They worked for long walks and still looked polished for evenings.
• Tennis-style trainers for casual days when the weather was dry, or simply to give my feet a break. I like to change up shoes now and then for pressure point reasons, and this rotation made a big difference.

For trousers, I rotated between jeans and a pair of thick cream cords, which I reached for again and again because they felt cosy and winter-appropriate. 

I’d also packed a couple of winter dresses with thick tights, which I ended up wearing later in Rome rather than in Venice. They would have worked well here too, but I kept reaching for trousers because I was in and out of vaporetti and galleries, and sometimes I just find tights uncomfortable.

While I had a couple of chunky knits with me, I soon turned to slightly thinner ‘medium thickness’ sweatshirts layered under a long, quilted down coat. 

I’d packed heavy scarves and thick woollen gloves, but I barely used them – polo necks were enough for me, and I found myself overheating if I over-layered. That said, if you’re more sensitive to the cold (or coming from a warmer climate), gloves and a warm scarf might be essential. 

I’d also add a caveat to this that when I was there, temperatures sat at the higher, rather than lower end of the average range, so it’s probably no harm to have at least one very warm/thick woolen jumper with you. 

The gloves I brought were lined leather with touchscreen-friendly tips, which were particularly handy for using my phone without taking them off.

I did get caught in one heavy downpour while I was in Venice, suitcase in tow, and that’s when I realised how awkward umbrellas can be. 

If you’re juggling luggage, pockets, or a bag, you simply don’t have a spare hand for one. I found a hat much more practical, and a jacket with a hood is even better. Umbrellas also aren’t ideal in Venice’s narrow streets where you’re constantly dodging people. 

My advice is to make sure your winter coat can withstand rain, or at least bring something waterproof. If you’re someone who always carries an umbrella, pop a compact one in, but don’t rely on it as your only defence against the weather.

Insider Tip

Check the forecast right up until you leave. If acqua alta (flooding) is predicted, consider packing waterproof boots or buying the inexpensive knee-high overshoes sold all over Venice. Even without flooding, waterproof soles are a must – pavements get slippery with rain.

Packing checklist for Venice in winter

• Long, quilted or woolen style coat
• Mix of mid-weight and woolier jumpers
• Long-sleeved tops for undernreath
• Jeans or cords (warm trousers)
• Optional: winter dress + thick tights
• Chunky rubber-soled boots
• Comfy ankle boots for day-to-night wear
• Tennis-style trainers for dry days / foot relief
• Lined leather touchscreen gloves
• Polo necks or scarf (depending on preference)
• Rain-appropriate hat and/or compact umbrella

Tips for visiting Venice in winter

1. Plan for acqua alta (high water)

Even if you don’t experience it, you’ll likely see raised wooden walkways stacked on the side of streets, ready to be put in place. Shops sell inexpensive plastic overshoes that slip over your boots and reach to the knee – Venetians take them in their stride. 

If flooding does happen, progress through the city slows as everyone files onto the raised walkways, so allow extra time for getting around.

2. Book key attractions in advance

Even in winter, the likes of the Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Basilica, and popular “Instagram-famous” spots like the Rialo Bridge and Libreria Acqua Alta can still draw a crowd. It’s quieter than summer, but you’ll save frustration by buying tickets online rather than relying on walk-ups.

3. Reserve restaurants for dinner

I flew by the seat of my pants on my last visit, and while I got away with it as a solo traveller, I often landed the last available table. Locals eat out all year, and the best restaurants fill up. If you want to eat well, make bookings – especially for dinner.

4. Double-check opening hours

Some restaurants and cafés quietly close earlier than their stated hours on Google Maps in the off-season. I learned this the hard way when I turned up for a late lunch at Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti and found it already shut, despite listings saying otherwise. If there’s somewhere you really want to try, it’s worth ringing ahead.

💡 Planning your first (or next) trip? → My Venice Travel Tips cover everything I wish I’d known before going – from navigating vaporetti to avoiding classic mistakes.

5. Pack for rain as well as cold

Venice’s dampness is often more of a challenge than the temperature. Bring a compact umbrella that won’t be a nuisance in narrow alleys, or a good hooded coat. Waterproof soles are essential, as pavements can be slick with rain.

6. Be prepared for Carnival

Carnival is the one time in winter when Venice completely flips back to peak-season mode. Prices for hotels and flights surge, and crowds flood the city. If you want to experience it, plan far in advance: many of the masked balls, gala dinners, and even street events are ticketed and sell out quickly. Book everything early – accommodation, costumes, and event tickets – or you’ll miss out.

7. Allow yourself to wander

The biggest joy of Venice in winter is how much more slowly the city reveals itself. Foggy mornings, quiet canals, and local life feel more visible when you’re not battling through summer crowds. Build in unscheduled time for neighbourhood strolls in Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, or Castello.

8. Be mindful at night

I never felt unsafe, but as a solo traveller, I was aware of just how empty the streets became after dark. I kept to well-lit, main thoroughfares and made early dinner reservations so I wasn’t walking home late. If you’re with someone else, this is less of a concern, but it’s worth knowing just how deserted some alleys can feel.

Insider Tip

Don’t try to over-schedule. Winter is the perfect time to embrace a slower rhythm in Venice – dip into museums, linger over a spritz or cicchetti, and let yourself enjoy the quieter corners of the city.

Where to stay in Venice in winter

One of the best things about visiting Venice in winter is that hotel prices drop dramatically compared to the peak summer season. You can finally justify booking somewhere with real character – the kind of boutique or historic property that makes your stay feel extra special. Here are a few places I’d recommend:

Novecento Boutique Hotel

This is where I stayed on my last winter trip, and it was a dream. 

Novecento is a small, family-run hotel, and that warmth comes through the moment you step inside. The decor feels like a treasure trove – layered with antiques, textiles, and pieces the family have collected. 

After a day of exploring, I loved returning to a friendly greeting, grabbing a coffee in the eclectic common area, and retreating to my cosy room. The beds are deliciously comfortable, the atmosphere is inviting, and the bathrooms are stocked with beautiful Ortigia toiletries. 

For me, it struck that perfect balance between feeling luxurious yet deeply personal. 

Hotel Flora

Novecento’s sister property, Hotel Flora is a little larger but still firmly boutique in style. It has a beautiful garden for those crisp, sunny winter mornings, and a stylish bar for evenings. Think Venetian charm layered with comfort and elegance. 

The Venice Venice Hotel

For a luxury stay that feels distinctly Venetian but with a modern edge, this five-star delivers. Expect soaring ceilings, glittering chandeliers, contemporary art and sculpture, and a rooftop terrace with Grand Canal views. 

There’s also a glamorous water-level terrace and a cool cocktail bar. In summer, rooms can run to €1,100+ per night, but in December I found rates around €500-700 – still a splurge, but a significant saving. 

Palazzino Fortuny

This stylish hotel near the Rialto Bridge was high on my shortlist before I chose Novecento. It’s a well-reviewed option with a slightly more contemporary look than some of the heavily decorated palazzi, but still full of Venetian atmosphere.

Residenza Venezia

Set in Cannaregio, close to the Rialto Bridge, this is a great-value option that balances comfort with location. It’s easy to cross into the busier parts of Venice, but you’re also close to quieter neighbourhoods. In December, rates can dip as low as €125 per night, with Carnevale week being the one exception. 

Insider Tip

Winter is the time to snap up Venice’s most characterful hotels for a fraction of their summer rates. If you see a good deal on somewhere special, don’t hesitate – the savvy travellers book them quickly, and the best places rarely stay available for long.

FAQs about Venice in winter

Is Venice too cold in December?

December is chilly, but I wouldn’t call it unbearable. Average highs hover around 7°C (45°F) with lows close to freezing at night. For me, coming from Ireland, it felt surprisingly mild at times – I was even overheating in galleries thanks to the Italian love of blasting the heating. 

If you’re from somewhere warmer, though, you may feel the cold more. It’s the damp air and fog that you’ll notice most rather than extreme low temperatures.

Do the canals in Venice freeze in winter?

No, the canals don’t freeze in winter. The temperatures simply don’t get low enough for that to happen. At most you’ll see fog curling across the water’s surface, which actually adds to the atmosphere, but the canals remain very much open.

Is Venice worth visiting at Christmas?

While I haven’t personally been for Christmas markets or New Year’s Eve, Venice dresses up beautifully with lights, a festive ice rink, and seasonal events. Add in quieter crowds compared to summer and the city feels much more local and authentic. 

The only thing to watch is that some restaurants or smaller places might close earlier than expected around the holidays, so double-check hours if you’ve got your heart set on somewhere.

Does it snow in Venice in December?

Snow is rare but not impossible. On most winter visits, you’re more likely to see mist, rain, or a damp chill than proper snowfall. If it does snow, it usually melts quickly – Venice doesn’t hold on to a white blanket for long.

What should I pack for Venice in winter?

Layers are key. I rotated between jeans, cosy cords, and lighter jumpers (over a long-sleeved top) under a long quilted jacket. Trainers worked for dry days, knee-high boots with chunky soles were great for wet pavements, and I practically lived in my pointed-toe ankle boots. 

I also packed winter dresses and tights, though I didn’t reach for them in Venice, preferring trousers for comfort. Bring gloves (mine were leather and touchscreen-friendly), a scarf if you tend to feel the cold, and waterproof boots if you want extra peace of mind against rain or the occasional acqua alta.

Can you go on a gondola in Venice in January?

Yes, you can – and in fact, winter gondola rides can be really special. There are fewer boats on the canals and much less traffic, which makes for a quieter, more atmospheric experience.

I noticed many gondoliers waiting around for fares, so you can take your time, chat to a few, and find someone you feel comfortable with. Just remember it will be chilly close to the water, so bring gloves and wrap up warm.

Continue planning your winter trip to Venice (or elsewhere)

If you’re feeling inspired to start planning the details of your Venice escape, I’ve got you covered. A couple of guides will help you map out your time and figure out the practicalities:

• Things to Do in Venice (coming soon) – for a full list of highlights beyond the winter focus.
• Where to Stay in Venice – to compare different neighbourhoods and find the right hotel for you.
• 2-Day Venice Itinerary (coming soon) or 3-Day Venice Itinerary (coming soon) – to piece it all together into a trip that flows.
• How to Get from Venice Airport to City Centre – an essential guide to help you reach La Sirenissima with ease. 

Other winter guides

Want more inspiration? Don’t miss my roundup of the best European cities for a winter break, with cultural highlights, seasonal food, and cosy hotels.

• Visiting Bruges at Christmas 
• Dublin in Winter
• Ireland in Winter
• Seville in Winter
• Granada in Winter
• Porto in Winter
• Lisbon in Winter
• Douro Valley in Winter

You can find all our related content on visiting Venice below, or on our dedicated Venice content hub.

Related reading for Venice

Venice Gondola Ride: Is It Worth It, Costs & How to Do It Right

7 Best Food Tours in Venice (Including the One I Loved Most)

Where to Stay in Venice: The Best Areas (Sestieri) + Curated Picks

Visiting the Doge’s Palace, Venice: Complete Guide with Tips & Tours 

Venice in Winter: What to See, Do, Eat & Where to Stay

Venice Travel Tips: 30+ Things to Know Before You Go (From Someone Who’s Been Multiple Times)

How to Get from Venice Airport to the City Centre (All 5 Options Compared)

Where (& What!) to Eat in Venice: A Foodie’s Guide

Best Cicchetti in Venice: 10 Top Spots, Must-Try Bites & Insider Tips

15 Best Museums & Galleries in Venice You Can’t Miss

Is Venice Worth Visiting? My Honest Take After Multiple Trips